OK, so from the side walls they really are load range D/E. The .pdf files are incorrect. It looked like the doubled the values for the .pdf file. Let the buyer beware.
Something that probably most of you already know but I thought I would bring it up just in case: Designs in general, tires in this case, are a set of exchanges. You move the design in one direction OVER another. For example: A traction tire will be louder, will not ride as smooth and last quiet as long as a highway rib. This is because of the tread pattern you need to have more traction. It will have more traction. Some designs are actually a series of compromises. Example: closed sholdered traction tire. The closed sholder design will decrease some of the ride noise because of the closed sholder as well as decrease some of the edge feathering. It may not provide as much traction as an opened sholder design because it can not move as much material out from the center if the tire as an open sholder design.
As mentioned earlier, there is no perfect tire. More important is do the new tires you are purchasing have the exchanges you want and live with and do the job for you?
A suggestion would be to list what you drive on: highway, city, gravel, dirt, mud, snow etc. How much you drive on each type. Whether you are loaded versus unloaded. Your driving style: Take it easy versus pushing hard into corners, hammer down versus encon mode. Any issues with current tires, likes, dislikes. And talk to a good tire person.
I had no less than a dozen questions for Dan at Rickson. He answered them all and discussed trade off's. He gave his recomendation based on his personal experience. I am happy now but better yet ask me in a couple of months how I still feel.
Typically, the more effort you put in up front the better the result you will have in the end. (My wife complains that I over design things. I work a lot from the old saying: When in doubt make it stout with things you know about. )
Happy driving!