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Tires for my Dually Too*****

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Kenny those Geolandars are what I came accross. Has anyone run them? Right now, it is looking like the BFG for me, I can get them for under $100 each.



Kev
 
I'm running Continental HDR's in the 19. 5 size - and I love 'em! Great wear so far for a fairly aggressive road tread (not M+S rated), and I haven't been stuck in snow or ice, even running empty. Only thing I don't like is the fact that they tend to "self steer" on grooved concrete pavement. Otherwise, I'd certainly buy another 4.
 
Pit Bull:



I had to look up the Michelin XPS.

http://www.michelin.ca/ca/eng/local/catalog/docs/doc_xpsrib.pdf

Most of my research was for M/S tires. If I had wanted a highway tire I would have went with it. Primarily because I would not have had to buy new rims. The tire itself is much heavier than an LT tire. The steel casing is typical of a C tire.

Something does not seem correct about the page. The LRD and LRE service descriptions do not match the max load. The max loads are in the load range G range. 4K# is typically F, 5K# is typically G, and 6K# is typically H.



I had never though to retread a highway rib with a M/S pattern. Can it be done correctly? I am personally not real kean on retreads. I have had one separate on me years back (but it was a passenger car tire). I have also had to run over truck retread and have done some damage. :mad:



Dan at Rickson's is a good person to bounce questions off of. I basically figured out that it is extreme overkill to run anything greater than F's on a dually. You would probably break suspension or axles before fully loading the tires. Where G's (and H's) come in is on a SRW with a large slide in camper. You can get the margins of the training wheels without the added width.



I just swaped on the General LMT-450's this morning. I have only driven ~20 miles on them. I was surprised at how quiet they were. I was expecting a lot more noise going from a closed sholder to an open lug. These were what Dan recomended to me after telling him what I drove, how I drive it and where I went. My original choice was either Michelin XDE-MS or XZT. The General's were ~$50 less a tire. The smallest size 19. 5 tires are about 1. 5" bigger in diameter the 16's. I did not notice any difference in shift points. It seems to take a little more to slow it down from freeway speeds.



Oh and General's parent company is Continental.
 
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Dan. . the XPS are available in either traction or highway. .

note also available at Costco [only via the special order program with 3 day delivery]. . last time I bought them they were in the $150/160 range
 
I did not see any indication that they were available in traction from the web. Also, does the traction model have a M/S rating. If it does I sure wish I would have know this before spending the money on 19. 5's.
 
Pit Bull: http://www.michelin.ca/ca/eng/local...xpstraction.pdf

is a good looking tire. I am still concerned as to the differences in service description and load. Again, the max loads listed are those of G and H tires.



If the loads are correct they would make a hella tire for a 16" rim. (I bet Rickson would not be too happy).



For me it is too late. The 19. 5's are on and the tire should last me the next 5-6 years. It would have been nice not to have to spent the $250x7 for the new wheels though.



The link does not say M/S rating but the tire looks like such.



I would probably be a good thing to verify both the M/S rating AND the actual max loads. If they are what they say, that would be awesome.
 
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The all seasons are the ones I had before the Tractions. I loved them,but I just wanted something that will grip a little more in the mud in my tobacco patches and cow pastures. The all seasons lasted about 50-55000 miles, rode great no problems. I hope the Tractions hold up as well as they did.
 
Dan. . moot point now I know. . but here is the info from the side wall of the tire



Max load dual 2778

Max load single 3042



and yes they are rated M/S. . and as I said, I live at good snow levels [not super heavy but do have to plow] and they work very well again MHO. . enough so I have had these on two rigs and will continue with them... when I buy a GN trailer I'll spec it with these tires also
 
OK, so from the side walls they really are load range D/E. The .pdf files are incorrect. It looked like the doubled the values for the .pdf file. Let the buyer beware. ;)



Something that probably most of you already know but I thought I would bring it up just in case: Designs in general, tires in this case, are a set of exchanges. You move the design in one direction OVER another. For example: A traction tire will be louder, will not ride as smooth and last quiet as long as a highway rib. This is because of the tread pattern you need to have more traction. It will have more traction. Some designs are actually a series of compromises. Example: closed sholdered traction tire. The closed sholder design will decrease some of the ride noise because of the closed sholder as well as decrease some of the edge feathering. It may not provide as much traction as an opened sholder design because it can not move as much material out from the center if the tire as an open sholder design.



As mentioned earlier, there is no perfect tire. More important is do the new tires you are purchasing have the exchanges you want and live with and do the job for you?



A suggestion would be to list what you drive on: highway, city, gravel, dirt, mud, snow etc. How much you drive on each type. Whether you are loaded versus unloaded. Your driving style: Take it easy versus pushing hard into corners, hammer down versus encon mode. Any issues with current tires, likes, dislikes. And talk to a good tire person.



I had no less than a dozen questions for Dan at Rickson. He answered them all and discussed trade off's. He gave his recomendation based on his personal experience. I am happy now but better yet ask me in a couple of months how I still feel.



Typically, the more effort you put in up front the better the result you will have in the end. (My wife complains that I over design things. I work a lot from the old saying: When in doubt make it stout with things you know about. )



Happy driving!
 
thats why I print out the price from the tire rack, including shipping, and stop by my local dealer and "give him a shot at matching the price". They will still throw in the free rotation. They rotate them for free because it brings you into there shop. Once the tires are off they can sell you brake work if you need it. Plus while your there, maybe they can talk you into an oil change.



Originally posted by David Wheeler

With all due respect... .



I've found that after locating tires online, purchasing them, paying for shipping and then paying someone local to install them..... I come out almost exactly the same by buying from my local dealer. I might even pay a bit more, but he's there to provide the free rotation and balance every 5K miles. My computer has yet to provide that service :D Just my 2 cents on that subject!



David
 
Well I got my tires, Goodyear's G159 all 7 of them cost me $200 these were pulls from gov. vechs. Had about 10k on them. I'm happy and still have money in my pocket. Oh and $10 of that went for a tip.
 
There was a guy in town that work'd in the oil fields around here and he keep getting flats all the time so he stared asking around what kind of tire he could use that that might keep him from getting too many flats and someone told him Cooper C120 . I was in need of some new tires so I ask the parts man at the local independent parts store in town what was a good tire and he told me that story so I said what the heck I don't like having flats on a one ton either so I went and got six of the Cooper C120s and thats been at least four years ago and I haven't had a flat since and they are not wearing that bad either .
 
Originally posted by Wayno



I don't like having flats on a one ton either so I went and got six of the Cooper C120s and thats been at least four years ago and I haven't had a flat since and they are not wearing that bad either .



Wayno, these sound like good commercial grade tires. What did they cost you? When I looked them up on the internet they were priced at $187. 54 per tire in the 235/85/16 "E" rated size. Also in researching the Cooper C120's I found they were part of a class action suit settlement by Cooper tire?? Did not show what the problem was?? Do you know what that was about? Thanks for the information on the Coopers, I'm looking for the most bang for the buck on the best HD tire I can find. I also think that a commercial grade tire that is all steel is the way to go.
 
hey Pit Bull with you being so close to KC, There is a dealer here in South KC, Louisburg to be exact. That I got a really good set, for a great price, i changed to 255's and got all 7 for $1100, mounted and balanced. The dealer is only a year old here but they are pretty well known. And I have a really good hiway tire, had em about 20k and little to no wear on them at all. The dealer is "Big 'O' Tire". I would check them out, they had mine in stock and changed the whole set up in just an hour. I trust em and even recommend them. Just thought i would throw that in there



Russell
 
Pit Bull , thats just about the same price I paid for 215's . There is a little tire shop here in town and the girl that owns it doesn't mark her tires up much . She has to order them and it takes her maybe one to two days to get them . She is not a dealer of any tire so she has to order just about everything . I have check everywhere and she is the cheapest around . I haven't heard of any lawsuits about Copper tires . I have ran the truck wide open for a couple of hours at about 100MPH on a few long trips and they didn't come apart . I haven't had any problems with the tires . Well they do hurt my back some when I try to pick the tire and rim up . Those C120's are real heavy!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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