To synthetic oil, or regular oil?

[RSchwarzli]

Any thought as to if it is worth paying for synthetic oil in the motor, or does it really make a differance?



Also if helps, I will also be running a Amsoil bypass filter setup.



Thanks,



Robert

 

[Grizzly]

I don't think paying extra for synthetic is worth while. I realize many of you will challenge me on this, but I have talked to some TDR members who have as much as 800K miles on their CTD and use Delo 400, 15W40. The dealer where I purchased my truck don't push synthetic oil.

 

[dpuckett]

I dont see any real benefits, either, even with the bypass, though I wouldnt go to synthetic without one for sure. (This is where my g/f's boss and I have a huge disagreement. The oil change is only as good as the filter, and if you put a $5 filter on, you cant automatically go 2-3x as long just because of the oil. ) I realize it doesnt apply to you in this case, seeing how you have a bypass, and hence, better filtration.



Now, if I were driving 2500mi a week, hauling stuff coast to coast, I would look into going with synthetics and bypass filtration, but then again, I may just go with a bypass and stick with regular 15w40 meeting the CI-4/CJ-4 specs.



Danile

 

[JFaughn]

Its all about numbers/math [ saving dollars & eng. ] I bought an Amsoil double filter by pass system from a friend , $50 with filters , so thats a large savings , haven't had a chance to put in yet ,
I am running Rotella 15/40w , yr. round [ MN. ] with Fleetguard filters , or Donalson , Napa gold ,
Using Blackstone & Cummins oil analysis , changing at ever increasing miles as told by analysis , 9,000 - 11,000 , TBN 9+ ,
So the idea of just good filters is one part , good oil an other part , but when I check my KDP , I will change oil after the KDP , I will put in Amsoil & just change filters till the analysis says to change oil .
The way I like to do maintenance & repairs is with testing , I want to know whats up , not believe .

 

[DFranks]

I Run synthetic and wouldn't run anything else.



I want cold start protection in the cold weather climate that I live in. In can dip down to -40C here in the winter months.



I guess someone would argue to change back to dino oil in the summer months. My response to that is I run a bypass filter so I normally go 20-25k between changes, might as well just keep it simple and run synthetic full time.

 

[Grizzly]

I Run synthetic and wouldn't run anything else.

I want cold start protection in the cold weather climate that I live in. In can dip down to -40C here in the winter months.

I guess someone would argue to change back to dino oil in the summer months. My response to that is I run a bypass filter so I normally go 20-25k between changes, might as well just keep it simple and run synthetic full time.

Besides having an engine block heater on our trucks, I believe you can get a heater to keep the crankcase warm too. Might be a better solution.

 

[Furthur]

Besides having an engine block heater on our trucks, I believe you can get a heater to keep the crankcase warm too. Might be a better solution.

It is if you can plug in, but I had to start mine a few times this winter after cold soaking for a week below 0F... not a time to hope your 15-40 is ok... I ran a semi synth last winter, 5w40... and was glad I did.



I only change mine seaonally, though, and am running dino for now, planning to swap back to synth or blend for winter again.



John

 

[AKaiser]

You really have to pencil out the numbers for yourself, based on your duty cycle and mileage driven. I ran Amsoil Series 2000 0W30 on my old gasser and never had a bad test on original oil plus filter change makeup over 50K. Only changed the oil then as I was going overseas and didn't want Dad to have to mess with it. I went to Amsoil 10W30.



Right now, running Series 3000 5W30 HDD, and I'm seeing excellent mileage, and no issues after 5000 miles. Not a really good comparison, going from winter fuel to summer, and I've done a lot more easy 45-60 MPH driving since then. My last tank of fuel, FWIW, was about 23 MPGs. Can't attribute that necessarily to Syn, but I'm sure it helped, since I was running 5W30. Mostly, it is a factor of speed (45-60) traffic (less stop and go) and summer fuel. Getting ready to pull the first oil sample.

 

[Moab4x4]

I loved the article on oils in the latest TDR. As I don't run high miles, I think I will switch to the Blue.

I just don't run enough miles to justify the synthetic. Mom married an Amsoil dealer even. !

I do use Amsoil in the transmission,xfer,diffs, and multi purpose grease.

Does that make me a crossbreed?

 

[Grizzly]

I loved the article on oils in the latest TDR. As I don't run high miles, I think I will switch to the Blue.

I just don't run enough miles to justify the synthetic. Mom married an Amsoil dealer even. !

I do use Amsoil in the transmission,xfer,diffs, and multi purpose grease.

Does that make me a crossbreed?

No, that just means you have your own opinion and I'm sure he will respect that.

 

[DFranks]

Besides having an engine block heater on our trucks, I believe you can get a heater to keep the crankcase warm too. Might be a better solution.

Yup,I still plug in the block heater(on a timer) I wouldn't even consider using an additional aftermarket heater for the block(just one more cord to unplug while my hands are shaking from the cold).



I get better(ever so slightly) fuel mileage, safer cold starts,(oil will pump at -50 f ) higher operating temperature resistance, contaminant free (no wax) to resist long term sludge build up, and last but not least I like spending my money on synthetic oil.



All for an extra $50. 00 a year, it's expensive but so is my truck!.

 

[Grizzly]

Yup,I still plug in the block heater(on a timer) I wouldn't even consider using an additional aftermarket heater for the block(just one more cord to unplug while my hands are shaking from the cold).

(ever so slightly) fuel mileage, safer cold starts,(oil will pump at -50 f ) higher operating temperature resistance, contaminant free (no wax) to resist long term sludge build up, and last but not least I like spending my money on synthetic oil.

All for an extra $50. 00 a year, it's expensive but so is my truck!.

Perhaps in you much colder climate synthetic is a better solution, but I'm not 100% convinced.

 

[y-knot]

Oil products are a personal choice..... some like synthetics and others don't. Some don't like synthetics because they cost so much more, where other feel the cost is justified. I personally love synthetics... ... (don't throw anything my way), I have been running them for almost 20 years now and and will continue to run them in the future. I use only Amsoil, because I like what I see and what I get. I get a clean running engine that keeps good oil pressure and my maintenance cost are low (I haven't had any oil related failures). I've used them in my dragsters, which were turbocharged and I had excellent wear, no turbo problems and no oil foaming. I currently have 3-ATVs, 1-scooter, 1-engine driven welder, 1-mower, 2-cars and 2-trucks, and 2-compressors all running on Amsoil products. I also use only synthetic grease, which is a great investment.

One the Amsoil Dual By-pass filter/mount. I installed one on my truck some 3-4 years ago, the mount is of excellent quality and I would recommend it to anyone. The problem use to be the filter adapter, which went on the engine in-place of the oil filter, they were made of a cheap cast aluminum, and would crack very easy. I got around that by using one of the TDR members filter adapters, which were billet steel and truly a work of art. Now I see that Amsoil has switched to a much better looking filter adapter then before, from the pictures I've seen it looks like a nice unit, and appeared to be made of steel. This was the weak link in the system for Amsoil. Things to remember and know before changing to a dual by-pass system. The oil tapped right at the filter is straight off the pump, this oil is very high in pressure and is the life blood of the engine. Any modification made to this system need to be as professional as possible. There is a great deal of harmonics and vibrations associated with this system. Any mounting brackets need to be isolated from the body or frame, and the hoses need to be protected and isolated as well. If not you will feel and hear the vibrations and the hose will eventually hurt themselves. There is a great deal of pressure on the hoses, any mounts you make need to be strong and secure, also remember that you need the filters to hang straight down and in a spot where changing them will not be a pain. The lines on my truck are An-10, and in my opinion they need to be that big to carry the volume of oil necessary to sustain the engine's oil requirements. Buy the best hoses and fittings you can get, and remember to protect them from vibration, rubbing, battery acid and heat. Good luck

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[Moab4x4]

Y-Knot Nice looking build on that truck! I like the thread in the offroading forum.

Maybe a tad overkill, but that is the way I like to build things too.

That filter arrangement looks sweet. Do you also install the dual bypass filter on your gassers as well? I am looking at a 99 Burb with the 5. 7 that I want to make last as long as possible, 120k now. Too late for the bypass filter to do me much good on the gasser? I do use synthetic everywhere on that one as it is mama's taxi and it sees lots of short trips and many more miles than mine. In many ways harder use than on my truck.

Ken