Tongue Weight Revisited

[BrianWalker]

My brother wants a new Gearbox toy hauler, 26' front sleeper.



Dry wt. = 6464#, Dry hitch wt. = 1174#. (from brochure)

This is 18% of trailer wt.

Rule is 10-15% from what I've seen.



Say he loads it to its max capacity of 11,400# and in a perfect world, it's perfectly balanced.



Does this mean his TW is now 18% of 11,400# or 2,052#, right?

No hitch is rated this high.

But if you add Weight Distribution, from what I've seen in posts, approx 80% is transferred to the truck, 1640#.

This leaves 410#, of which 10-20% is transferred to the trailer.

400# is not heavy at all for a 3500 with a class 4.



The problem I'm still having is that the hitch/reciever, ball/WD system is still controlling 2,052#.

The biggest Putnam is rated for 14,000#/1400#.



Am I nuts? Is the Putnam or anything else not enough?



Brian

 

[klenger]

You would have to load it tail heavy to keep the hitch weight reasonable, which I assume is typical with a toy box since the cargo goes in the back anyway.

 

[bulabula]

Not only will gross weight vary when you vary the load package, the tongue weight will vary depending on where the load is positioned.



Think of the trailer as a balance beam with the tires as the fulcrum. Just because there's more weight in the trailer doesn't have to translate into a higher tongue weight; it could be less.



I don't know how accurate those brochure figures are (may vary depending on options), but there is only one real accurate way to measure weights, and thats to take it/them to the scales and weigh them - loaded and unloaded.

 

[BrianWalker]

I've read in a post on one of the RV threads that even a 1000# loaded in the rear only changed the tongue wt 150#. I don't know how accurate this is. Even if its 20% off, not much change for what is loaded.

I will have to buy the tongue scale now, just so I know what MY weight is. I hope it's not over my hitch/receiver rating.

 

[DPelletier]

Class IV = 500/5000 lbs w/o weight distributing bars. Class IV with weight distributing bars = 1000/10,000. If you're over these weights you (or your brother) SHOULD consider one of the many higher rated Class V hitches that are out there (Reese Titan, Torklift Superhitch, etc. etc. ) Always weigh your tongue. FWIW you don't need a tongue scale, just weigh your trucks rear axle empty and then with a trailer and subtract your two numbers. Close enough.



Good luck

Dave

 

[DPelletier]

Oh, I forgot. As many have alluded to, the dry hitch weight at 18% (1174) lbs doesn't mean the hitch weight for the fully loaded trailer would be 18%. BUT if the dry hitch weight is over 1,000 lbs you should consider a different hitch anyway IMO.



Dave

 

[BrianWalker]

I did the rear axle with trailer. But I think I had the front wheels to close to the scale. Which may have placed more front weight on the rear.

I guesstimate my TW to be closer to 1,000#, than the 850# as specified in the book.

This was with the trailer basicly empty, no water, clothes, food, toys, etc... Now it makes me nervous to find out what it is full.

I will be buying a tongue weight scale.



I ask all this wanting to help my bro make the right purchase and help him understand the numbers juggle and clarify more for me. This is his first truck/trailer purchase.



Thanks.

 

[EricBu12]

I have a 28' Desert Fox Toyhauler TT



empty weight was 6800 and dry TW is 1200# so you are about right on the one your brother wants.



I have a 500 polaris that goes in the back and it helps the TW some, my water tanks are right about at the axles so it is ballanced, I would estimate my TW loaded is about 1400#



I bought a class 5 hitch and it has 1400# and 14000# rating so I believe I am good on that. As a saftey thing, I bought the Hensley Arrow hitch to eliminate the fishtailing. I am at 20,000# GCVWR with my polaris and full water and 2 other pople... .