Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Too Cold for No block heater... IDLE ALL NIGHT?

[Big Red 94Ram]

All I use is the block heater and 2 battery blankets. Truck starts good for me. -15 windchill here.

 

[AH64ID]

Engines don't care about windchill, they only get as cold as the ambient. The wind does cool them down quicker, but only as cold as the ambient.

 

[Midnite]

You could also buy a Katz magnetic heater and slap it up onto the oil pan.

This is great advice, especially if you don't have synthetic oil. At -30 F. conventional 15w-40 oil is more tar than oil. That's an exaggeration of course, but I don't think it's too far off the mark.

The cheap $30 pad heater I got for my oil pan isn't magnetic, but a thin coat of RTV holds it in place just fine. It made a big difference for my truck in below zero temps.

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

In -20F last winter I could not get started. Had plenty of battery power and cycled heaters multiple times and cranked and cranked but it would not start. I have had this issue since I've owned it. Think my grid heaters are shot? the intake horn warms up and I can tell it's pulling amps by the drag in idle speed and dimming headlights, but unlike all the stories i read on here - if I'm at about +5 or lower - I WILL NOT get started. Really makes me nervous about hunting trips in the fall or winter play time trips.....

If I plug in it's never an issue. Wait to start light is on about 1 second and it fires right up.

 

[DavidC]

In -20F last winter I could not get started. Had plenty of battery power and cycled heaters multiple times and cranked and cranked but it would not start. I have had this issue since I've owned it. Think my grid heaters are shot? the intake horn warms up and I can tell it's pulling amps by the drag in idle speed and dimming headlights, but unlike all the stories i read on here - if I'm at about +5 or lower - I WILL NOT get started. Really makes me nervous about hunting trips in the fall or winter play time trips.....

If I plug in it's never an issue. Wait to start light is on about 1 second and it fires right up.

Maybe not your grids but your fuel heater. My 99 has the wiring on the top of the canister that goes to the fuel heater.

Dave

 

[Woodenhead]

Is the fuel heater on a 24V actually effective? On a 12V it's useless and problem prone, mine is in the junk pile.

 

[AH64ID]

The pair of OEM 300w heaters works great on my truck.

 

[RMHanes]

Seem to remember reading in the TDR that excessive idling is not good for the cylinder as it washes the oil away. Have used the timer method mentioned here and have good luck with it. Just set it 120 minutes or so before getting up and have not had any problems. Just looked at a 2014 2500 and noticed that the batteries have a blanket around them on the sides and top. The saleman stated this was for heat reasons but might be good for the cold also. If do some searching might be able to find some "blankets" that have electric cables in them so the batteries can be heated up also. Might use the timer if do this as could boil off the water in the cells if have that type of battery. Not sure about the Optima's on this. Just tap these into the same cord as the block heater. Purchased the plug from Geno's that mounts in the front bumper so do not have to open the hood and fish around for the plug.

 

[Woodenhead]

The pair of OEM 300w heaters works great on my truck.

Wow twin 300W fuel heaters. Certainly beats the POS unit they used in the 12 Valves.

 

[AH64ID]

Wow twin 300W fuel heaters. Certainly beats the POS unit they used in the 12 Valves.

I guess I should have clarified, one is stock the other is an OE add on. If the OE fuel system isn't altered the single 300w heater underhood works well. I added the Mopar sever duty filtration kit, which added a heated filter head by the transfer case.

 

[SnoKing]

The fast idle TSB designed to allow extended idling in extreme cold weather. The issue with cold weather 24V idling was with valves sticking and bending push rods, not cylinder wash down. If it is extremely cold out, anytime the water temp is below 140 degrees it should fast idle.

BTW the first time one goes into 3 cylinder idle you will crap your jeans!

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2n...ins/85-tsb-18-019-01-cold-idle-engine-warming

Dealer can install this TSB or someone with a Smarty can load the ECM with the stock code that contains this TSB.

SNOKING

 

[AH64ID]

It does, but it still takes forever to warm up.

Cummins still warns against cylinder washing on VP trucks. IMHO they are more prone as the lower pressures means less atomization and if you combine that with no pilot injection it's easier to have unburnt fuel hit the cylinder wall. I would guess that is why VP trucks have a 3cyl option and CR trucks don't, but that is prurely a guess.

DAP will rent Smarty's and the sell the mopar1973man cold weather idle kit.

 

[Midnite]

I can see the cylinder washing being an issue on stock trucks. I have to question it on modified trucks like ours though, with advanced injection timing and injectors that give a finer spray pattern.

Earlier this winter I let mine idle for a little over an hour once (got stuck working on something when I thought it would be a quick 5 minute thing). My next oil analysis report still showed zero fuel in the sample. I still try not to let it idle more than necessary though.

 

[AH64ID]

Timing does help (does Edge mess with timing at idle? I know many programmers do not), but not all larger injectors have finer spray. I am not sure how F1 does their Mach 1's for 24V, but if they are simply EDM enlarged OEM injectors the larger hole would mean lower atomization on cold fuel and low pressure (this is why large injectors smoke can smoke/haze at idle).

It's not a forget it once and your screwed kind of thing, but habitual cold idling is hard on a motor.

 

[SnoKing]

Mine idles against the Banks exhaust brake up to 140 water temp. 3 cylinder idle and exhaust brake to not mix well however, as in it dies!!!!!!!

Chris

 

[AH64ID]

I always wondered about 3cyl with the EB.

I use my EB to keep it warm, but prefer not to use it with a cold motor. My soot shot up on UOA doing that, I can only presume it gets past cold rings easier. If I am going to use the EB for warm up I only do it after a couple minutes of fast idle and then maybe only once or twice a winter.