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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Top of the line "towing cam"?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Abs

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Good morning everyone, Farmer Michael here. This is my first post so bare with me. Here's the deal, I'm in the process of removing the engine out of my 1998 12v so that I can proceed with a fresh rebuild as well as having the block resurfaced. Now I figure while the engine is out of the truck this would be a perfect time to install a better cam for towing than the stock cam. In the process of looking for a better performance towing cam I feel as though I'm lacking in the knowledge department of selecting the correct cam for my engine. So I'm asking all of you for advice on which cam I should install. My engine has never been rebuilt before however the head has been fired ringed and the exhaust ports have been honed. The engine has been studded with ARP head studs with 75hp over DDP injectors, 3000rpm gov. spring kit, #0 fuel plate, and last but not least Source Automotive Stage 2 Compound Turbo setup with a modified HX35/40 on top and a big S400 on the bottom mounted on a BD 3-piece exhaust manifold. Oh and I have a Snow Performance Water Methanol Injection kit as well. I'm looking for a cam that breaths better and that will potentially be able to handle my hp goal aroung 500-600hp for my towing needs. I apologize for the long post but I wanted to give you guys as much background information as possible to eliminate the need for "unnecessary" questions. Any advice from you would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and have a great day!
 
I have the Hamilton 178/208 as a towing cam and have been very happy with how it pulls/spools.

I would give Zach Hamilton a call and see what he has to say.
 
Welcome to TDR, sorry I can't add any input to your question, but if you fill out your signature, all the info on your truck will always be there on your posts. It will shorten your questions if you refer to your signature for the particulars of your truck/trucks. Again, welcome to TDR ;)
 
I'm not sure where you're located but I'd highly recommend going back to Source and talking them about the Colt Cams they sell. With what you're trying to accomplish I'd think a Stage 3 would be a good fit but they can provide some good advice on that, I have yet to see them steer anyone wrong. Be sure to give them all the details on you're setup, being a repeat customer may help when you price it out :).

I do have a couple questions on your setup and goals, my truck is setup similar but with HX40/HT3B turbos and DDP4 injectors, NV5600 and a studded o-ringed head.
How many miles are on your motor, why do you feel the need to do a fresh rebuild?
Do you still use your water meth setup? I had a Snow setup but once I installed the twins I found I no longer used it so I pulled it all out.
Your goal is "500-600hp for your towing needs", my experience has been that hp range is nice (and fun) for playing but in reality when I'm towing I estimate I really only use 350-400hp (35-40psi boost). That seams to be what it takes for me to adequate haul what I do, heavy for me is 20-24k lbs gross. For me, using any more power than that that seams to strain the driveline transmission pretty hard and I'm pretty will shorten the life of the transmission and other components rapidly.
Have fun with the build!
Mike
 
Top right of this screen:

My Profile -> About Me -> Customize My Profile

You'll find an area to enter your signature plus lots of other stuff. Be sure to save whatever you enter.

Rusty
 
Well the reason why I thinking about rebuilding it because the truck has 322,000+ miles on it and it is puking an insane amount of blow-by out of the motor to the tune of me just leaving the drain on my frame mounted catch can open all the time because it fill so fast. The block needs to be resurfaced due to me getting a little deep the last time I replaced the head gasket. I know...I shouldn't have used a powered wheel to take the gasket off. That's what happens when you're in a bit of a hurry. Won't do that again. Lol. So I figured I'd just rebuild it if I find it's necessary to do so. I have no plans of ever selling this truck so for me at this stage of game I would prefer to do some "preventative maintenance" IE engine rebuild. Rather than nickel and dime it. Does that answer your question woodenhead?
 
Well the reason why I thinking about rebuilding it because the truck has 322,000+ miles on it and it is puking an insane amount of blow-by out of the motor to the tune of me just leaving the drain on my frame mounted catch can open all the time because it fill so fast. The block needs to be resurfaced due to me getting a little deep the last time I replaced the head gasket. I know...I shouldn't have used a powered wheel to take the gasket off. That's what happens when you're in a bit of a hurry. Won't do that again. Lol. So I figured I'd just rebuild it if I find it's necessary to do so. I have no plans of ever selling this truck so for me at this stage of game I would prefer to do some "preventative maintenance" IE engine rebuild. Rather than nickel and dime it. Does that answer your question woodenhead?

Makes sense to me, I think I'd be doing the same thing if I were in your shoes and I may just do it one day. I only have 240k on mine.
 
Oh I forgot to mention that I do still use my water methanol injection setup in tandem with my twins. My truck runs about 52psi when I'm pulling a heavy load up a grade and the exhaust temps will go beyond acceptable levels without the use of the meth kit. I'm still tinkering with the correct injection nozzle size and the correct time it turns on the first stage and then later the second stage. When it's on it brings the temp down a few hundred degrees.
 
I have a colt stage 3 cam I my 2004, runs great all the way around including towing, plan on doing a write up on it in the near future .
Kyle
 
Building a new engine for my tow rig also, old engine is puking oil out the radiator and burning oil.
After a bit of research and phone calls I'm going with a Colt Big Stick on a single turbo setup.
 
Make sure you upgrade the valve springs and keepers, I also had installed bronze valve guides and some port work done to boot. The big stick has an awesome power band and a lot less smoke.
 
If you run a fixed orifice exhaust brake you will need the bigger springs/pushrods with anything larger than the Colt Stage 1. My 178/208 builds about 75 psi of back pressure on my Jacobs brake.
 
Mostly good advice above, in my opinon. Colt and Hamilton both make good bump sticks. I've used both, but in saying that, I think the colts are finished out a little better. The measurements are near identical between the two, with Colt offering what they call the "Big Stick" and Hamilton's "Performance 208" cam. Both work well, but you will need to watch for valve clearance, depending on how much you take off the head and block when decking it. I'd suggest a +.050 head gasket if using either of the bigger offerings. You will also notice a significant "woofing" sound, which also sounds much like a miss, coming from the direction of the air intake, indicating a significant valve overlap at idle. With the boost you're telling me, I think you'd be happy with either one. As for your EGTs, it sounds like you need to upgrade airflow somewhere, and perhaps advance timing. I run 55-60 in my '97 with a larger HX40 single turbo, and my EGTs very seldom go over 1000 as long as my RPMs stay above 2000. Valve springs are a must, while you have it apart.
 
+.050 head gsk, WOW! Have my short block together but need to check piston height then set the head on and check valve clearance.
If they're to close I may notch the pistons to keep compression up.
 
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