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Totally Dead '97 (Help)

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Clutch noise

Wiring help needed

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I have a totally dead '97!! I mean DEAD. No lights, no radio, no nuthin!!! Two weeks ago while driving on the interstate my GEN light came one. The volt gauge stayed at around 12 - 14. Next day the GEN light was off and it has not come on since. This morning (after using the truck yesterday), I found it in its present condition.

I have tried to jump it using a charger and an additional vehicle and after a very brief crank I only get clicking.

Does anyone have any suggestions or run across this situation before I go to the extreme of getting it towed to the dealier and $$$$$. Can anyone point me in the direction of how to troubleshoot this.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Tom
 
I'm not much on electrical failures, but it sounds like your batteries may be internally shorting, sucking away any juice you may give them, someone please correct me if im wrong, or give some more advise.
 
Jeez, that soon, I have one original battery but one of them was replaced under warranty in Nov99. Thats what, 24 months? Is this common in a Diesel??

Tom
 
One battery may be toast and taken the other one with it. The clicking you heard was the solenoid trying to engage but not enough juice to make it happen.

It doesn't sound like you have any reason to tow it to the dealer.

Brian
 
I would disconnect one of the batteries and see what you get, then disconnect the other. If it is just one of the that is shorted, you should get something out of the other. You might want to try charging then when you disconnect them.

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1999 2500 ST LB 4X4 Metallic Red, 5-speed, 3. 54 gears, LSD, camper and tow package
Westach Boost/EGT (pre and post turbo) mounted on A pillar.
 
If you check the batteries and they're OK, it would probably be a good idea to check the relays that are in the relay box on the driver's side inner fenderwell. I have had them go bad because water got in them and destroyed them. They rust quick once they get wet.
 
I would say most definitely your oldest battery is shorted, pulling the good one down. Disconnect the old battery, charge or jump to the new one then see what happens. As long as you aren't running the block heater one battery should be enough.
 
Ok, thanks guys. Illflem, I'll try that in the morning. I just wrapped up for the day. I actually got it started. I had the little 10AMP Sears charger on it for about 1. 5 hours on the older battery. It fired right up so I guess the older batt is the culprit. Thanks



[This message has been edited by tjtrujillo (edited 05-01-2001). ]
 
It's best to replace both batteries at the same time, even though one might still be good. You don't want to have one "good" battery, & one "better" battery doing most of the work.
 
You cannot judge a batteries condition by its age. We run 80 <em>new</em> batteries a week and sometimes one of them is just plain bad. We don't waste out time on checking what causes the failure. That's why warranties exist.

BTW on Delco & others with the &quot;eye&quot; to indicate charge. If it goes dark but the battery has charge, give it a good shake. Sometimes those buggers will rattle upside down from driving.

my 2 reale (bits)

John E
 
As mentioned above, a load tester is very handy. If I remember corectly you can get one for about $30. It will definately be worth the money for future use. When one battery goes bad, the other will also lose some of its charge. They want to have equal charges therefore the good battery supllies the bad battery, resulting in two batteries that can't supply enough juice to do the job. One good battery is definately enough to do the job for a period of time. Also, check the cells in the battery to be sure they aren't low.

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94' 2wd,5spd,#5TST,15%pump mod,K&N,imellmoke
 
my experiance with auto batteries, is when they
go dead a time or 2, it takes alot of the life
out of them. If I had to charge them up 2 or 3 times,
the next time it gets cool at night, I'll have to
jump it to start it. Ditto on the one bad battery pulling the
other down. I replaced both of mine right before winter
last fall. Haven't had any problems all thru winter.
my . 02

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97 3500 SLT EXT CAP P/U
5 SPEED, 3:54, 245/75R16
stock plate full foward
straight exhaust
RON Z
 
Well, the end result is the truck is at the dealer. I bought two brand new 900CCA Diehards and installed them last night. I noticed two things though.

1. Once connected, the postive pole and the area around the pole got warm to the touch very quickly. I am talking just connecting it. The truck was not running and no accessories with the exception of the underhood light were on.

2. When I did start up the truck, the voltage gauge was only at 10 or 12 volts.

I disconnected both batteries and let it sit over night. The warm pole bothered me.

I connected everything up in the morning and drove it to the local dealer. The voltage gauge was still only around 10 or 12, even under acceleration. Also, the truck was VERY under powered. It just felt flat.

The diesel mech at the dealer hooked it up to his volt meter and Chrysler computer and could not figure out what was going on so I had to leave it. He did confirm it was only putting out about 12 volts, but, he was more confused the error codes he was reading.

Later in the day I had to stop by the dealer to get something out of the truck and guess what, IT WAS COMPLETELY DEAD AGAIN. Thats right, DEAD. No power for lights, door locks, NUTHIN.

What could possibly draw down power like this wiith the truck just sitting there ???

Help.
 
Sounds like you've got a direct short somewhere; grid heater, mirror heaters, frayed insulation, etc. These can sometimes be a challenge to track down. Need to connect an amp meter and start pulling fuses to try to isolate the circuit involved. If no luck, start looking at battery cables to power distribution centers. Good luck.

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Kurt Voss
********* 1999 2500 24VCTD AUTO 4x4 QC LB Laramie SLT, Luverne stainless steel nerf bars, 3 piece bug deflector, mopar mud flaps, Line-X bedliner, Blue Chip Fuel Management System (Premium), Psychotty Air, DD3's,TTPM, DD 4" exhaust, HX40, DTT VB/TC(91%) , Mag-Hytec transmission pan... YEEEEEHAAAA!!
 
Yep, you've got a short somewhere. The reason you didn't have much power is because the alternator was pulling down the motor.
Sounds like the alternator is working so you might want to question the technician's abilities.
Be sure to get your batteries disconnected and charged back up as soon as possible. The longer they stay dead like that the shorter their life will be.

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'95 2500 Ext. Cab, 2wd 3. 54 limited slip, auto, TST #6 230/605 plate, BD low stall T. C. , K&N air filter. I have to tell you, I LOVE MY TRUCK!!!!!!
 
Starter relay is my first guess. I ran into a short on the trigger circuit that completely killed the batteries.

Sometimes the regulator in the alternator will stick which will backfeed and kill the batteries. I haven't heard of that one since everything went solid state in 94.

Good luck. These can be danged annoying to find.

JE
 
Originally posted by JohnE:
Starter relay is my first guess. I ran into a short on the trigger circuit that completely killed the batteries.

Sometimes the regulator in the alternator will stick which will backfeed and kill the batteries. I haven't heard of that one since everything went solid state in 94.

Good luck. These can be danged annoying to find.

JE
 
Thanks to all. Any more suggestions would be great and I will pass them on to the dealer.

How do you pass a hat around for a collection on the internet??
 
Tom,
It's obviously out of your hands but from here I'm speculating one of more of your alternator diodes has 'bit the dust' which will allow currect to flow to ground via the alternator. I've seen this several times on various cars/bikes.
Mick
 
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