Towing a fifth wheel

[kevincook]

I own a 01 with an auto and 3. 55 I would like to buy a fifth wheel. The one I like gross max weight is 11000 which is over the rating on my truck.



I plan on upgrading the exhaust (Banks) and a new BHAF with heat shield. What else should I do or should I look at a lighter unit around 8000?



Any suggestion?



KC

 

[JyRO]

Suggestions...

I have a good suggestion. Get that slushbox bombed. Can you say, "DTT?" Bomb now, or repair & bomb later.



You'll be over the GVWR with an 11,000 lb. 5'er and a 2500. I'm not saying it can't pull it, only that you'll be over the GVWR. With an 8,000 lb. 5'er you should be OK on the GVWR.



- JyRO

 

[RCone]

11,000K might be a bit much. I had a 96 CTD auto w/banks power and pulled a 35' triple slide 5ver weighing in close to 14,000K. Dumped transmission at 36,500 mi. Swore I would never have another auto. But look now. Pulling a 29' double slide 5ver (Cougar by Keystone) measuring around 31ft. Have more room than the 35' and weighs in at 8500# MT. Bigger units, lower weights, can be had. Do your homework and shop smartly. I am right at the limits of GVWR so I shouldn't have to worry bout overweight no matter where I go. Also, what JyRO said, transmission mods (mine is going to Abbotsford on 10/19/02 for a TC (also see my signature). And... ... ... NEVER tow in OD. That's what took out my transmission/TC in my 96. Maybe a little less in MPG but who cares. I average bout 13mpg towing in third gear running right around 2400 RPMs at about 62 MPH which is fast enough for me. Hope this helps.



Regards... ..... Roger

 

[cwsoules]

My truck movres and stops our 5er just fine, but it is nearly fully loaded. I'm happier because of my DTT transmission upgrades, and Smarter with my pillar gages. I can now watch the load being placed on the engine and transmission towing uphill by monitoring my gages.



I recommend that you develop a good estimate of what your truck will weigh with Mom, kids, dog, tools, full fuel tanks, you and etc. in it. With this info you can subtract it from your GCWR to see how heavy your 5er can be. And then subtract it from the truck GVWR to see how much weight your 5er can place into the bed of your truck. My 5er places 18% of it's weight into the bed of my truck.



When shoping for a 5er use the 5er's GVWR as it's weight. And then use 18%, some use 20%, to see how much weight it will place in the bed of your truck. You will probably find that the truck GVWR will be the limit on your 5er size rather than the GCWR of your truck. We liked all of the slide outs we saw until I realized the weight price we would have to pay to have more than one. My wife prefers to take 5 changes of clothing when 3 would do, so I had to be careful to give her plenty of "weight" she can add.

 

[Dkevdog]

Originally posted by kevincook

I own a 01 with an auto and 3. 55 I would like to buy a fifth wheel. The one I like gross max weight is 11000 which is over the rating on my truck.



I plan on upgrading the exhaust (Banks) and a new BHAF with heat shield. What else should I do or should I look at a lighter unit around 8000?



Any suggestion?



KC

Hang on a second here- unless I misread something, he is saying the trailer has a GROSS of 11,000. My Sunnybrook has a gross of 10,800, but even loaded with all my crap, including water and all the other goodies, she only sits at about 9,600. Either way, I'd upgrade the transmission. And get more info on the actual dry weights of the trailer. Besides- most of the guys around here tow way over max and then brag about it. Do what you feel comfortable with.



Kev

 

[JyRO]

Dkevdog...

You're the perfect example of what my post was about. You're at 10. 8k something, was it? And you're 800 lbs. over your GVWR. 2500 GVWR = 8,800 lb.



So, I should be right on with my original post.



BTW, I don't have a problem with your weight. Last time I weighed I was at 9,300 lb. with a 9,000 lb. (ready to camp) 5'er. I've been trying to par it down since then. I'm probably close to 9,000 lbs. GVW by now, but I'm still over - ahhhh, big deal.



- JyRO

 

[phoekema]

another suggestion

I agree, definitely do a transmission upgrade. You won't believe the difference it makes when towing! While looking into the transmission options, be sure to check out ATS too. Also, with the upgraded transmission, you should have no problem pulling in OD. I pull about 13,000 lbs with a 3. 54 ratio. Of course you have to use common sense - if the engine is laboring, shift down. Most of the time, at least on the highway, I pull in OD locked at around 68 mph and 1900 rpm. This gives me between 800 and 1100 degrees EGT.



Paul H

 

[jbone]

My 2 cents---owned a fine 99-2500-3. 54--auto when I bought my trailer below--its about 10-11k also---and as you notice I changed trucks---there is long story involved, but long and short of it--look what I'm driving now..... and yes I will be up-gradeing Auto when I can or must--hope can comes first... ... . R, J. B.

 

[kevincook]

Thanks for the info so far, the dry weight of the trailer is 6700, I don't plan on pulling the trailer with the thanks full of water ect. .



Also what trans upgrades does everyone think would be the best investment?



KC

 

[JyRO]

To answer your question...

I don't own an auto (YES! ), but if I did I'd just go talk to DTT. They'll spell it all out for you. And from what I've learned, the products and customer support at DTT is far and above all others. Just my $0. 02, let me know if you need change back.



- JyRO

 

[Barry]

Whoa. Make sure we are all singing from the same page.



1. On a 11,000# 5er, the empty weight will be 2 to 3 THOUSAND #s lighter than the GROSS. How your Bride packs it will effect your legality.



2. The GVWR is only going to apply to the "pin weight" that is placed in the bed of the truck plus the weight of the truck.



3. The GCWR will apply to the WHOLE rig.

 

[kevincook]

The trailer carrying capacity is 3590 lbs. it dry weight is 6810. As for my wife she packs lighter than most



KC

 

[pwr2tow]

For pulling those kind of weights see my signature. The only thing I wish I had different is 4:10 gears. I tow all the time in OD, just put the transmission in drive and go. The computers in these trucks and the PCM are pretty smart.



Ron

 

[BigMike]

I'm pulling 13K with my 2500. I'm over my GVWR but real close to my GCVWR. There have been endless debates over this issue in this forum. All I can say is that my truck handles my 5er beautifully. I have plenty of braking and plenty of power. I simply quit worrying about it and just love driving down the highway with my 5er in tow. Put an exhaust brake on whatever you do.

 

[PRout]

Same here. My 2500 pulls my 5'er fine at 18k gross. Handling is fine.



Power can be turned up to any level you want, & stopping isnt a problem w/ trailer brakes, & exhaust brake.



The only thing Id be concerned about is blowing a rear tire. That is a REAL concern while towing heavy. It wouldnt have the stability of a dual rear in a blowout. So, if you already have the 2500, Id say go for it, just drive with some common sense & always think about your tires.



You might look into some airbags for more stability in the rear, make sure you keep both sides' air system seperate for more sway control.



If a person was going to choose a truck, Id say get the 3500.



Either way, make sure its a long bed, as short beds dont have nearly as much options available for tanks, tool boxes, headache racks, hitches, etc.



As far as your last question about going to a lighter weight trailer. Id say go lighter if you can. It'll be more pleasant to drive. Heavy gets to be work.

 

[kevincook]

I did not think I could put on an exhaust brake on an auto. If I cant want should I do. Also what auto upgrades can I do with out replacing the whole thing?



KC