2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Towing Mirrors....pwr/heated!

[J Baxter]

Ok, just ordered the mirrors for my 01, found the dash control unit with mirror defrost, that needed to be replaced anyway, now, where do I find the knob that goes on the door for a good price?

 

[J Baxter]

so, found the toggle at a junk yard, installed the passenger and driver's side, didn't notice the pinching possibility until the second mirror, popped a fuse, I'm guessing I have to pull the passenger door and check the wires.

I got mine on sale for 87 each. 25 for the toggle and 50 for the new heater control.

 

[J Baxter]

all right I found the fuse. the guys who blew fuses with the heater function blow the fuse for the blower motor. I blew the IOD, must have shorted out different wires. you also lose your radio and interior lighting when this happens.

checking wires for pinches tomorrow.

 

[Silver_Ram]

I notched the base with a die grinder so the wires didn't pinch.



I tightened the nuts in sequence & after 1 day of driving the passenger mirror is on its way back & a new one ordered as a replacement. The mirror vibration over 25 mph was a joke. Quality is OK, but I don't know about the wires visible from the outside bottom corner. Guess we'll find out. If nothing else, I can put the Bestop/CIPA mirrors back on & skip the Dodge look-a-like game.

 

[J Baxter]

Ok all done.

I had pinched the wires on the passenger side, I cut out the 1/4" bad section, soldered and used heat shrink tube on each wire and then the whole assembley.

I installed the mirror again being much more careful, it works great.

There is a little trough to put the wire through on the mirrors I got. You have to push the plug end and a grommet through the hole in the foam pad, which requires making that hole a little bigger. no grinding required.

I had the none powered towing mirrors originally and I did not need extra brackets, they were there for my none powered mirrors.

The stud off the back of the driver's side mirror did hit the back of the control knob inside the door, took it off and used a bolt, thank you to whomever gave that tip earlier.

The vibration on the mirrors is just slightly worse than the old none powered mirrors I had, probably wouldn't have even noticed if so many people hadn't already complained.



mirrors on sale 2x$87, $50 for the AC control and 25 for the mirror adjust knob. $249 all in, way better than when I priced them at the dealer back in 03, I think each mirror was like $600 back then.



I have to say that I recommend this product, power mirrors are nice, nice, nice. The heat function works, can't wait for a foggy morning to see how long it takes to clear the dew. not much ice here in Southern California.



Buy a bolt to use in place of one of the studs.

All the wiring is there, at least on my '01, and plugs right in.

 

[Ram4Sam]

My Kool-vue have been sitting on the bench several weeks hope to do them this weekend. The bolt sounds good, do you remember the dimensions of it?



Sam

 

[J Baxter]

I don't remember.
I think they were 6mm.
You only need to replace one of the studs on the drivers side where it hits the back of the switch.
I pulled the stud out of the drivers mirror, the top one, took that and the nut down to the hardware store and bought several lengths, the left overs are now in my misc. hardware drawer, and I can't remember which one I actually used, I think it was about 1. 5" but metric length.
Many of the weird shorts, fuses popping and mirrors that only go down problems I've read on this very long thread are probably caused by crimped wires during install.
a couple more tips.
#1 if doing this yourself, roll down your windows prior to taking apart your door panel, so you can reach through the opening to hold the mirror while inserting the grommet, installing the backer plate and putting on the nuts.
#2 after fixing the short I caused on the passenger side mirror, I used some electrical tape to hold the wire and foam pad in place while I got the mirror aligned and in place, then yanked it out right before tightening down the mirrors.
#3 buy some panel clips, you will damage a few and need to replace them, our trucks rattle enough you don't want to help it along.

 

[Ram4Sam]

I don't remember.

I think they were 6mm.

You only need to replace one of the studs on the drivers side where it hits the back of the switch.

I pulled the stud out of the drivers mirror, the top one, took that and the nut down to the hardware store and bought several lengths, the left overs are now in my misc. hardware drawer, and I can't remember which one I actually used, I think it was about 1. 5" but metric length.

Many of the weird shorts, fuses popping and mirrors that only go down problems I've read on this very long thread are probably caused by crimped wires during install.

a couple more tips.

#1 if doing this yourself, roll down your windows prior to taking apart your door panel, so you can reach through the opening to hold the mirror while inserting the grommet, installing the backer plate and putting on the nuts.

#2 after fixing the short I caused on the passenger side mirror, I used some electrical tape to hold the wire and foam pad in place while I got the mirror aligned and in place, then yanked it out right before tightening down the mirrors.

#3 buy some panel clips, you will damage a few and need to replace them, our trucks rattle enough you don't want to help it along.

Thanks for the tips and info. Where in So Cal are you?



Sam

 

[J Baxter]

you are welcome. it is the least I can do for all the info I get off of TDR.
I haven't been a member for a few years, just started driving the truck again and it needed about three years of maintenance and some new upgrades, TDR is the bomb.
West Los Angeles, close to the I405 and I10 interchange.
I build ridiculously huge homes for the spoiled and wealthy of LA.
currently one year into a 30,000 sq. foot house in Bel Air.
One nice thing about the rich, they always have money. Very minor slowdown for us.

 

[Rogan]

I'm looking to order a set in a week or so!

do the power versions 'power-rotate', or is it a manual thing (stand them up by hand?)

My truck is a base model, and I know there's no harnesses in my doors, so I may go with the $120ea manual version of these. .

when flipped from horizontal to vertical, does the mirror glass need readjusted for proper visibility?

Thanks,

 

[Ram4Sam]

I'm looking to order a set in a week or so!



do the power versions 'power-rotate', or is it a manual thing (stand them up by hand?)



My truck is a base model, and I know there's no harnesses in my doors, so I may go with the $120ea manual version of these. .



when flipped from horizontal to vertical, does the mirror glass need readjusted for proper visibility?



Thanks,

You have to rotate the mirror head a quarter turn by hand, and yes you have to readjust the mirror each time you go out or in.



Sam

 

[paul-g]

i just searched the the whole site, no "dodge" towing mirrors. Just aftermarket.

go to geno's garage.com i got the cipa ext. On my 97 2500 and i pul a 34' 5th wheel and they work good.

 

[Rogan]

bah, It would probably be best, then, for me to convert to electrics...
My truck is base model with no power anything. .

 

[Silver_Ram]

My truck came with the small stock power mirrors. I first tried the extensions on the small mirrors with my 5th wheel - needless to say they sucked. Next I tried the Bestop/CIPA big entendable mirrors - damn good mirrors, can't miss much, very steady glass & they are a little heavy. Always liked the look of the factory tow mirrors, but refused to give up the power & heat. Kool-Vue came along & I finally took the plunge - they are okay for the $86. 00 a piece I paid for them. It took 2 tries to get a set that hold still. Kool-Vue still has a ways to go to make these mirrors first class, like CIPA. I saved the CIPA mirrors & the extra set of backing plates, so when I tired of the Kool-Vue's I can put them back on.

 

[Ram4Sam]

"they are okay for the $86. 00 a piece I paid for them"



Pretty much says it all for me also. Finally put mine on after that sat on the workbench for a few weeks. My factory manual tow mirrors were rock steady and worked fantastic with my 102" wide fiver, but were a big pain to readjust between daily driving and towing. The electric adjust is way cool, especially when backing into my backyard, dealing with a narrow driveway, overhangs and gate posts. But the Kool-vues are not near as steady on the road, leaving a bit of a fuzzy picture of where I just came from. I don't think they are defective, just the way they are.



What a quandry, good picture, pain to adjust or sit on by butt, easy adjusting with a less than perfect picture.



Sam

 

[Hammer]

One of the reasons for me buying a set of the CIPA's was how bad these knock-offs are.

 

[Ram4Sam]

One of the reasons for me buying a set of the CIPA's was how bad these knock-offs are.

I looked into those also but the shape and the look of them just isn't for me.



Sam

 

[J Baxter]

Now that I have done more driving I am less happy with these mirrors, the do rattle more and blur up.
Has anyone tried to take one apart and see about stiffening it up?

 

[Silver_Ram]

The funny thing about these mirrors is they are inconsistent about the shaking. I got on the freeway & drove South - the passenger mirror glass was shaking. About 20 miles later I turned around coming North & the shaking changed to the drivers side. You could put out a fortune returning the mirrors, trying to get a good pair. These mirrors are definately not worth the hassle.



I have been toying with the idea of putting some small strips of Dynamat I have laying around & see if it will absorb any of the vibrations. I don't think I can use to much or the mirror will probably fall apart.

 

[CTD12V]

That's too bad. I was about ready to put these mirrors on my dream list of things to do to my truck. Do you think you could transplant the power/heat guts from the KoolVues into the body of the non-power 2nd Gen mirrors?