towing with smarty revo next weekend

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smarty

Cruise wont set

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this next weekend i will be towing my 11k toyhaler to la from Sacramento for this fist time with the smarty. iv been wondering what setting should i set my smarty revo to. iv done lose of serching but have not come up with an ansewer i am comfortable with. driving will mostly be at sea level other than the climb over the grapevine into la wich if i remember corrector is 7k ft would like the most power that i can use safely. keeping egt and railpessure in mind.
 
I have towed 6000 lbs with my 07 auto with the revo set to 60hp, max timing, moderate torque man, stock pressure (but I hear more pressure = less egt's)

James
 
I think i would run stock timing rp stock or 2 trq stock or 2... depending on how you drive you might be able to get away with sw5 but you would for sure be fine with sw3
 
this next weekend i will be towing my 11k toyhaler to la from Sacramento for this fist time with the smarty. iv been wondering what setting should i set my smarty revo to. iv done lose of serching but have not come up with an ansewer i am comfortable with. driving will mostly be at sea level other than the climb over the grapevine into la wich if i remember corrector is 7k ft would like the most power that i can use safely. keeping egt and railpessure in mind.



I have the S-06 and you have the S-03. I don't know the difference between the two, but I tow my 11k 5er on Level 1, stock rail pressure, default timing and torque management.



I have injectors, similiar to you. Due to the injectors added power, I haven't tried anything higher than Level 1 because I'm afraid of burning up my stock TC or trans. However, my trans temps have always been low when I tow.



With it set on Level 1 as described above, I have seen EGT reduction of approx 150F and fuel mileage increases of 1 to 1. 5 mpg while towing. It has also felt quite a bit more powerful than w/o the Smarty.



With your ATS stage 5 trans, I'd let her loose on any setting. I would probably start with at least Level 3 or even 5. I've been saving up for a new built trans and have been assured that it will take anything I can throw at it with the Smarty and towing even on the highest settings.



I don't really understand the rail pressure setttings, so I leave that on the stock setting for fear of harming the spendy injectors...



The Grapevine is one monster set of hills. (I just drove back from Disneyland on a family vacation... ) Make sure you take it out of OD until your speed is up to where your OD rpm is at least 1600 rpm as the Smarty's added power will allow you tow up the hills in OD and you can even lug the engine down to 1300-1400 rpm and it will pull hard, but you may harm your your Cummins ...



Hope this helps,

Louis
 
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I've been towing with settings: sw1, tq2 timing4, rp default and boost off.

Absolutely no egt problems

I have also tried: sw3, timing 4, rp2. The rail pressure on 2 seems to cause the pressures to drop at idle (I was afraid it would quit running sitting in traffic) and ran too low throughout the rpm range. That's why I went to the sw1, rp at default for a trip to Washington. I might try sw3 with this rp setting next time.
 
I think i would run stock timing rp stock or 2 trq stock or 2... depending on how you drive you might be able to get away with sw5 but you would for sure be fine with sw3

There is no reason to tow on stock timing, that would provide less power, high egt's, and the least economy.

You have a clutch so thats not an issue... I would either tow on SW1 or SW3.

TM2
TQ2
RP1
WG off (thou I would watch psi to not exceed 35-38)

This will give you the best possible EGT's and economy. Being winter at sea level you should have no issues with smoke. If you do try TM3, it will reduce smoke but give you a slightly higher EGT.

I wouldn't tow with anything by stock RP, your at a higher constant load so your injectors will be at a higher than normal pressure anyhow, no need to prematurely wear them.

As far as TQ management, mild is as aggressive as I would tow on, this will save your clutch, and drivetrain for shockloads.
 
Dodge5256,



To refresh your memory, from the town of Grapevine to the top of Tejon Pass is around a 12 mile climb. The summit of which is 4144 feet. I would have to agree with the others you shouldn't have any problems, just put it in direct and let it sing to you and watch the gauges:) Have a great trip too!



P. S. Don't forget chains be safe at this time of the year.
 
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I've been towing with settings: sw1, tq2 timing4, rp default and boost off.

Absolutely no egt problems

I have also tried: sw3, timing 4, rp2. The rail pressure on 2 seems to cause the pressures to drop at idle (I was afraid it would quit running sitting in traffic) and ran too low throughout the rpm range. That's why I went to the sw1, rp at default for a trip to Washington. I might try sw3 with this rp setting next time.



Blu-meanie, what are you towing (weight)? I've been tempted to tow with TIMING on 4, but haven't yet due to being cautious about too much timing and rattle.



Thanks,

Louis
 
i tow a 34ft 15k 5er toy hauler from glamis on level 3 rp-1, tm-3, tq-1 and i still have to take my foot out of it due to egts. ive tryed allso diffrent trip home level 3, rp-2, tm-4, tq-2 ran pretty much the same had too watch right foot due too egts.



im also open to suggestions for smarty and towing heavy. i guess ill just have to do a turbo to help with egts.



LRutigliano with your aftermarket injectors id turn the rail pressure up to 3. just keep an eye on rp guage if you have one as not too drain rail. . ive allways read not to run high RP with stock injectors. but sence you replaced them play with your rp, and monitor guage. Just my opion any ? call bob he is the man.
 
i tow a 34ft 15k 5er toy hauler from glamis on level 3 rp-1, tm-3, tq-1 and i still have to take my foot out of it due to egts. ive tryed allso diffrent trip home level 3, rp-2, tm-4, tq-2 ran pretty much the same had too watch right foot due too egts.



im also open to suggestions for smarty and towing heavy. i guess ill just have to do a turbo to help with egts.



LRutigliano with your aftermarket injectors id turn the rail pressure up to 3. just keep an eye on rp guage if you have one as not too drain rail. . ive allways read not to run high RP with stock injectors. but sence you replaced them play with your rp, and monitor guage. Just my opion any ? call bob he is the man.



MSchneider, before you spend big $$ on a new turbo, please consider a new intake manifold (elbow) from CFM+ or ATS. With the aFe SII and cat back exhaust with the Smarty, you should see big EGT reductions and power increases with this simple mod. 1 hour of your time and approx $350... The installation is very easy.



Erik @TVP dyno'd the CFM+, ATS and aFe intake elbows and the dyno results are incredible, especially where the towing RPM is. The CFM+ and the ATS fared much better than the aFe, but the aFe was still WAY better than stock.



I don't understand the RP pros/cons and have asked repeatedly for explanations with no results, so I'm leaving it stock...
 
i tow a 34ft 15k 5er toy hauler from glamis on level 3 rp-1, tm-3, tq-1 and i still have to take my foot out of it due to egts. ive tryed allso diffrent trip home level 3, rp-2, tm-4, tq-2 ran pretty much the same had too watch right foot due too egts.



im also open to suggestions for smarty and towing heavy. i guess ill just have to do a turbo to help with egts.



LRutigliano with your aftermarket injectors id turn the rail pressure up to 3. just keep an eye on rp guage if you have one as not too drain rail. . ive allways read not to run high RP with stock injectors. but sence you replaced them play with your rp, and monitor guage. Just my opion any ? call bob he is the man.



I think its the weight that is getting your EGT's up. . What EGT's are you seeing? For that much weight I would put the timing at TM2. TM3 will give you the next hottest EGT's, other than stock. Also what boost levels are you seeing?



If that doesn't do much try a run on SW#1, thats all timing and no fuel.



MSchneider, before you spend big $$ on a new turbo, please consider a new intake manifold (elbow) from CFM+ or ATS. With the aFe SII and cat back exhaust with the Smarty, you should see big EGT reductions and power increases with this simple mod. 1 hour of your time and approx $350... The installation is very easy.



Erik @TVP dyno'd the CFM+, ATS and aFe intake elbows and the dyno results are incredible, especially where the towing RPM is. The CFM+ and the ATS fared much better than the aFe, but the aFe was still WAY better than stock.



I don't understand the RP pros/cons and have asked repeatedly for explanations with no results, so I'm leaving it stock...



The elbow should help some in the 2K rpm range. Take a look at the GDP, near identical results to the CFM+, but its cheaper and can hold the GDP 2 mic fuel filter.





Rail Pressure is tweaked to gain maximum performance and power. Increasing the rail pressure does 2 things per injection. One the higher the pressure the more fuel you get thru per injection, two the higher pressure atomizes the fuel better, giving a more complete, more powerful burn. Stock the trucks run in the 23K psi range. Pressure boxes get it up to 25K to 26K max. Some settings on boxes increase the cruise pressure, but not max, and other increase it across the board. So the increased pressure give hp, and should help mileage (why most mileage boxes do RP). Now the downside. One the injectors are stressed with the increased pressure. This causes failures of both the bodies and the tips. (Tips are fixed with aftermarket tips, but I am not sure if anyone but bosch makes bodies (thou the DMAX, which shares an injection system runs much more psi stock than we do, as does the 6. 7)). . The issues with injectors can take miles and miles to manifest, if ever. The more imeadiate downfall to the increased pressure is the demand on the CP3. It has to work harder to get the pressure up, and needs more fuel. So running a pressure box and injectors can very quickly drain the rail, now your hurting on power and performance. This is where a RP gauge is needed, and if your pressure isn't holding you will need CP3 mods.



Personally I am fine with stock pressure and plan to keep it that way... thou I have a RP gauge going in for fun.
 
Not sure if this helps but I use SW3, for my 31' RV that weighs about 11. 5K. On long hills I do have to watch the egt, I tend to slow slighty to allow them to stay within an acceptable levels. No major mods on the the truck other than a BD valve body in the transmission, 4" exhaust and cold air intake.
 
i can consistantly 1250+ egts if i donnt watch my guages. boost wise i belive 28 psi. ive left the waste gate on with the smarty. ill have to double check boost next trip. im in 5th gear pulling the hill. mountian spring on I-8 west bound form the desert. but i do maintain between 53+ mph while pulling the grade passing others. including my brother that pull a 10k 5er with his 05 dodge auto.



I think its the weight that is getting your EGT's up. . What EGT's are you seeing? For that much weight I would put the timing at TM2. TM3 will give you the next hottest EGT's, other than stock. Also what boost levels are you seeing?



If that doesn't do much try a run on SW#1, thats all timing and no fuel.



TM2 tm3 next hottest egt? please explane



thanx
 
ok i know im not towing but im doing a trip to mid west wyoming form san diego for christmas to see my mom. i was wondering what smarty settings to use for best fuel econ. it will be me my wife and 2 yr old with some lugage to saltlake. the i pick up my brother his wife and 6 yrold and some more luggage. just looking for some advice havent had my smarty before on long trips untill this one.



thanx
 
boost wise i belive 28 psi. ive left the waste gate on with the smarty. ill have to double check boost next trip.



TM2 tm3 next hottest egt? please explane



thanx



That sounds like the correct boost figure for WG on. You may try WG off to see if that helps EGT's, it should help until about 35-38 psi of boost. Don't let the turbo get over 38-40psi if you turn it off.



EGT's are directly proportional to injection timing. When you advance timing more of the combustion happens in the cylinder, so you get more power in the cylinder, thus the heat stays in the cylinder, so the EGT's are lower. . you also get less boost per power setting.



When you retard the timing, like stock, more of the combustion happens at the end of the power stroke, putting more heat into the exhaust, thus higher EGT's and more boost.



TM 3 is between TM2 and stock, and is more retarded than TM2, so slightly less power, and higher EGT's.



ok i know im not towing but im doing a trip to mid west wyoming form san diego for christmas to see my mom. i was wondering what smarty settings to use for best fuel econ. it will be me my wife and 2 yr old with some lugage to saltlake. the i pick up my brother his wife and 6 yrold and some more luggage. just looking for some advice havent had my smarty before on long trips untill this one.



thanx



The most timing you can run should yield the best mpgs. So thats TM4, if the smoke isn't bad. I find on my JR I can advance the timing all the way if I am on the fwy with good rpms. Around town I get too much smoke on TM4. . For SW I would try 1,3, or 5. Reports are that some duration helps mileage, thou I have never confirmed on my truck. For TQ anything will be fine, as thats a low speed thing, and for RP if you want to try mild it may give you some mpgs, but I personally don't mess with RP.
 
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