Towing with the 1993 W-250

[btoscano]

Hey all,



I am accumulating more farm equipment and am going to get a trailer to move the tractor, bushog, utility vehicle, future backhoe, wood, culvert pipe, etc. I am looking at a 6 ton pull-behind tilt trailer, the Hudson HSLT18



http://www.hgrstrailer.com/trailers/hudson/equipment3.htm#hslt18



The tow vehicle will be a 1993 Dodge W-250 ClubCab LE with a heavy duty front bumper and winch which add about 425 pounds.



Anyone have experience with these trailers before? Is it too much trailer for my truck?



I liked this one because,

1. Local

2. Same tires as truck - 235/85R16 10-ply

3. No need to take up bed space with 5th wheel

4. Can install 2-5/16" ball on drag bar of my tractor to move it around

5. No ramps to deal with - no need to line up ramps, no problems with small tires, less effort to roll broke automobiles, etc.

6. Wood deck - not as slippy?

7. Support for cargo rails - can install posts or tie downs every 16 inches



Thanks,

Brian

 

[DBF]

You might get a quicker response if you post this in the "Towing, Hauling, and RV" forum.



Regards, DBF

 

[btoscano]

Actually I did post the message in that forum as well, but I was not sure I would get responses from 1st gen owners about what it would be like to pull something like this with our trucks. I was wondering both about the trailer and how 1st gen trucks would pull it. I hope to get some good feedback in both forums.



Brian

 

[Philip]

I prefer this type of trailer.



http://www.trailersforless.com/pj_new/pj_6_channel_euipment_tilt2.html



It has a flat deck with no beaver tail. It is lower to the ground. Same capicity as the one your looking at. There is another company that makes one like it based in Iowa. But I can't remember the name right now. It is built heavyer than a P. J. trailer is.



Your truck can handle it.

 

[btoscano]

Philip,



There is a 1 ton difference in the ratings, but why do you like the flat deck, no beaver tail trailer better? The local dealer's trailer has the 2-5/16" ball and the trickle charger for breakaway, I am not sure how important these features are.



Brian

 

[Philip]

A beaver tail is all right "if" the load isn't long. If your load is long & straight you need to support it on a beaver tail. Think lumber or steel. A beaver tail means a taller trailer. They use it to make ramps shorter. In this case look at the deck angle on that trailer for a full tilt. If you have to move something up at that angle by hand it would be a killer. The low slung trailer I posted you can roll something up the deck by hand if needed.



If the trailer has a 7 pin plug just wire one pin for a battery supply wire. No need for a charger.



The other company I can't remember the name of right now. Its trailer is rated for 14k GVW.

 

[cojhl2]

company that makes one like it based in Iowa.

H & H Trailer I bet!!

 

[cojhl2]

If the trailer has a 7 pin plug just wire one pin for a battery supply wire. No need for a charger

Doncha need a small bat on the trailer to keep the brakes unlocked if you happen to want to pull with a prime mover that does not have a power supply?



Tractor for instance.



On edit:

Awww man fergit that I'm backward,, you need the battery to LOCK the brakes if the trailer comes disconnected!!

 

[Philip]

I just went and looked at the H&H trailers. That isn't the MFG. The one I have used was steel decked. On a 20' model the first 4" of the deck doesn't tilt. The neck pivots are just in front of the front axle not at the front of the deck like the H&H trailer is.



Another thing I don't like about beaver tails is most newer low slug cars hit bottom on the beaver tails while your loading.



Those small batterys they use for break aways do not last long. I would suggest a tonque tool box with a larger auto battery then throw a 8k winch on the nose of the deck. This makes loading something nonrunning a lot easyer.

 

[Jgolden]

... ... ... ... .

 

[cojhl2]

Which brings to mind something else. I would never have another steel deck trailer. Too darn hard to keep stuff on it.



Of course some of my friends wouldn't have anything but steel,, so there are always other opinion



Regarding Beaver tails. Although my neighbor has one,, I've never understood the need or advantage for/of one!!

 

[MMiller]

When you say "Backhoe", what do you mean? In my mind that is a tractor with a loader on the front and backhoe attatchment on the rear. A cat 416 comes to mind... ... and there is no way thats enough trailer for that much of a load, and there is no way I would put that on any bumper hitch behind my truck. Now if you mean a mini excavator then you should be ok. How much does the tractor and bushhog weigh? With that short of a trailer, you are going to have to work hard at getting it balanced, and if the tractor/mower combo is very large then you won't be able to balance it.



Everybody for the most part knows how I tow around here. I get up around 29,900 gross weight with my first gen, but I pull a gooseneck, and not a bumper hitch. #ad




As far as beavertails go, on my goosneck mine is good, you have to have it to load equipment, and mine flips up. I just wish is flipped up easier. Its a workout to get it up in flatbed position.



Michael

 

[btoscano]

Michael,



Yes loader on front and backhoe on back... such as the Kubota L-39 (39 H. P. )



My other tractor is a Kubota L305DT. (30 H. P. )



Thanks,

Brian

 

[MMiller]

Michael,



Yes loader on front and backhoe on back... such as the Kubota L-39 (39 H. P. )



My other tractor is a Kubota L305DT. (30 H. P. )



Thanks,

Brian

I'm not familiar with Kubota #'s, what does the backhoe weigh, I suspect much less then the Cat backhoe I was refering to. The Cat weighs in at 16,000# and is 74 hp. I also suspect your kubota tractor is quite small size wise. That trailer should be more then enough for you and your loads. Growing up on the farm, and working onheavy/ag equipment, my visions are different then some. Around here a tractor and bushog is at least 80-100 hp, and the mover is 7 to 15' wide ... ...



I will comment no more on your trailer selection, as I don't have any bumper pull, low profile trailers. Just listen to Philip



Michael

 

[dpuckett]

Michael- I think he'd be well within the limits of the trailer with a Kubota backhoe- I have never seen anything from Kubota that would compare to the Cat 416 or a Case 580E in terms of size and weight. 9000# is HUGE for a Kubota.



I would definitely get brakes on both axles, just to supplement the Dodge brakes. The 1st Gen can handle it just fine. The factory ratings are for idiot-proofing, and backside covering for DC. I have had loads in the mid 20s GCGW, and done just fine.



You get your pickup back up and running yet?



Daniel

 

[Philip]

I know the size of the L39. That trailer will handle it.



My preference on trailers are low deck heights and tilt beds without beaver tails. The full flat decks give you more options hauling varied loads. IMHO





Here is a trailer close to what I would by myself.



http://www.mac-lander.com/frame_heavy_tilt_bed_trailer.asp



Note it has a 10 degree loading angle. This is shallow angle. You do not need to hooked up to a truck to unload it. It will not run off on you. You can load without being hooked up also.

 

[PToombs]

A beavertail on a tiltbed trailer is redundant. You don't need it and you can't tilt as far. Like Philip said, harder to roll or winch stuff on. Full bed tilt or partial tilt is your choice, but if you load something long you'll want full tilt. Never load or unload unhooked, I saw a trailer take off that was hooked to a too small truck.

 

[KOG]

I've got a Case 580C which weighs right at 12,000lbs depending on bucket attached at the time. 9T, 24ft gooseneck flatbed trailer. I've been towing that with a B "450" (Dual wheel B van chassis with 11' flatbed, 360/727 4. 10 gear). I have had 27,980 gross on that rig one time when hauling pine timber, but that a little too much. The D350 is being set up to replace the van as the tow truck.

 

[btoscano]

I picked up the Hudson trailer last weekend. Once I get the timing on the new injection pump working, the truck will pull it far better. Suspension wise it doesn't seem to know its back there.



Now a HUGE problem is visibility and MIRRORS.



Any suggestions on what I can do to the stock power mirrors to increase visibility? Do the wedges or round mirrors work, or should I just remove the power mirrors and replace them with 4-point "Western" mirorrs?



I am temporarily using the topper again to move some boxes. I took it off long ago to increase visibility but maybe with the right mirrors I can leave it on the bed for a while.





Brian

 

[MMiller]

Now a HUGE problem is visibility and MIRRORS.



Any suggestions on what I can do to the stock power mirrors to increase visibility? Do the wedges or round mirrors work, or should I just remove the power mirrors and replace them with 4-point "Western" mirorrs?



Brian

When these trucks were new, there was a vendor that offered extensions for the power mirrors, to space them out for pulling trailer. I don't have any idea who they were. An RV puller from my area had them when his 93 was brand new. I don't know what your going to do, but I wouldn't put different mirrors on the truck. I've been able to pivot the mirrors out to get good enough visibilty. Some small round mirrors will help you see what is right next to you, and thats about it. Helps with the blind spot if somebody sneeks up next to you.



Michael