Towing

[Archive]

I have taken delivery of my 2001 Duely Ram 24 Valve Automatic Quad cab. It has a 4:10 rear end and all of the available towing and camper packages for maximum towing ability.

The Brochure advertized 20,000, the truck was delivered with 19,000 maximum tow GVWR. I plan on towing a 5th wheel in the 14,000 to 15,000 range approximately 36' in length. What is the opinion on towing limits with the transmission, you hear all of the horror stories and Chrysler not honoring warrenties being overloaded and problems? I see plenty that are overloaded on the road I know.

Does anyone have stories to tell experience or advise & recommendations? Thanks "BIG RAM"

 

[Archive]

IMHO, your automatic transmission will be the limiting factor. The 2001 has the uprate in power and with 4. 10's you should have the capability to tow the 14k to 15k. Dodge says they upgraded the transmission programming for the extra power (according to Mark at May Madness). You might want to get a transmission temp gauge installed and watch it very carefully. Don't allow the transmission to overheat. If you notice it running hot, then add an additional transmission cooler. A lot of people will suggest you switch to your transmission fluid to ATF+4 Synthetic. Also, somthing I did to help my transmission was to add a BD Pressure Lock. It adds about 20 lbs of pressure to the torque converter lockup. That is suppose to help it from slipping under heavy load and throttle.

The GVW on my '99 3/4 ton is 16k so that limits my trailer to 9,000 lbs. I push that limit a bit (10,000 lbs) with my horse trailer. According to your post, your truck is rated at 19,000 lbs GCVW. Your truck probably weights about the same as mine (I have 4x4 and you have a dully), so that would put your max trailer limit near 12,000 lbs (give or take a bit).

I hope this helps a little. I'm sure some others will have even more information that I can provide. Best of luck.

Ron

 

[Archive]

Bigram:
I have a 32' 15,000 lb King Of The Road fiver. I use to pull it with a 94 2500, but bought the 2000 3500 last year. Like Ron said: "get a transmission temp. gauge first and an EGT gauge while you are at it. I don't have the boost gauge.

On the 94 I went through two trnasmision while it was still under warranty and got rid of it just before the warranty expire. After the second transmission failure I had a gauge installed and didn't have any problems after than.

If you travel a lot (especially in the mountains) I would install and exhaust brake and the Auto Lock for the torque converter. I also have synthetic fluid in the transmission. I have a VA box I plan to install after I take it in for my next service. Next will the 4" exhaust. I feel with this combination I should not have any problems since I can see what is going on with the transmission. That is your weak link in the drive train. I will probably go for the BD heavy duty torque converter and valve body once it is out of warranty.

We spend our winters in Arizona and have a few passes we have to cross. There is a book available that lists all the passes in the East and another that lists them for the West. If you travel a great deal I would purchase one or both depending on where you travel.

Good luck. I think you will find a lot of valuable information on this board~



------------------
2000 Ram 3500 4wd dualie W/B-D Exhaust Brake, Auto-Loc, Armr bed liner, DeeZee running boards, mud flaps, steps, leather, white with color splash on sides, would like to BOMB it, but after warranty. VA Box waiting to install.

34' King Of The Road 5th wheeler & 11. 5 Arctic Fox pickup camper. Winter in Arizona (Martinez Lake)

 

[Archive]

You guys would be suprised to know the shift kit that the dealer will install for FREE if you take the TSB in and complain about the shifting between 1/2 and torque lockup in 3-4. Looked like a aftermarket renumbered kit. Cured the problem. I tow boats that when full of fuel push the limit and after the trans fix had no problems. They changed to the 4 level ATF when they did the trans fix.

ALL FOR FREE I figured that was the best price I could come up with #ad
unless there is a shop out there who will pay me to try their gizmo.

I am a believer of the group that does not see a need for a trans temp gauge. If one is concerned just go to the dealer with the TSB get the valve body fix kit and synthetic 4
fluid and ride. Save your money for other important items like fuel for your baby. #ad

 

[Archive]

LOAD IT UP!!!

Some of the load I have pulled with my stock transmission and just a VA cpc are impressive.

I have hauled some gross comb. weights of 29,000 to 32850 several times with mo problems. 45,000 miles in 5 months.

70mph no problem just hammer down.

 

[Archive]

I'm pulling 12,000 lb. My last trip I pushed it quite hard seeing what the BD ISM computer would do. EGT was my biggest problem and that occurred at high RPM. The transmission stayed so cool that I am thinking about taking the transmission temp gauge off.

I use two rules. First I never let the transmission shift under full torque. Second, I keep the transmission in lockup as much as possible and when its not in lockup I baby it to keep heat to a minimum.

I also have the Gearvendors gear splitter. I'm not sure this is necessary and it is one more item to maintain, but I find it very helpful on those in between grades where 3rd is too high and OD is too low.

Just my . 02 centavos.

------------------
John S. '99 QC 1T 4. 11 A/T Leather Driftwood, 50 Gal aux tank/tool box, gearvendors, BD brake/autolok, BD ISB comp, guages.

Just a Little BOMBed and liking it a lot.