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Trade 98 12V for 2001 24V???

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In 95 I traded my Ford for a 95 Dodge Cummins reg cab 2500 with auto and 3. 54 ratio. That was a happy day to say the least. With 54,000 totally trouble free miles, I traded it for a 98 12v 2500 club cab short bed with 5spd and 4. 10. That was great until I bought a 5th wheel TT. It's not grueling or anything but a long bed would be better. So yesterday while looking at Durangos for the Mrs, I stumbled onto a 2001 quad cab long bed 2500 SLT with auto and 3. 55. I like the white paintjob and mag wheels with 265s on it. Discs on the rear too. I know it wouldn't be near the performer that my 12v with 5sp and 4. 10 is but it would be nice for towing the 5th wheel and backing it into spots without spring wrap-up and worrying about hitting the rear window with the front of the trailer. Am I nuts for even considering it or would it be a good thing to trade up to a new Cummins powered Ram? My 98 has 82,822 miles on it.
 
If you DON'T buy the 2001 you sure would save enough $$$$$$ to spring for a set of 265s on M/T Alcoas for your '98. As for the rear discs... well, you'd probably still have enough cash left over to put your choice of exhaust brake on the '98.



I'd sleep on it if I were you. :)
 
Unless you HAVE to have the xtra doors DO NOT DO IT!!!:eek:

IF it were a DEE, maybe but not an auto w/ 3:54.



If you are looking for a stock towing rig that will keep up w/ your 12v it won't, it wont get the fuel mileage either.



JMHO
 
Just don't do it, keep the 12 valver until the wheels go square. The 01 will run better, but you will HATE the fuel economy. Just my . 02cents.
 
Heck yeah!! Never pass up a new truck:) :D Life is too short to dance with ugly women, drink warm beer and drive old trucks!

Remember, this life isn't a practice run. :cool:



Sam
 
Steve,

I'm with Sam. If you can afford it, do what YOU want. I've learned that you won't be truely happy if you compromise and settle for something other than what you want--I almost bought a Ford before my Dodge!!... . Good Luck!!
 
If you're going to tow a 5er, and you already have a manual and don't mind shifting, I'd look for a HO 6 speed.
 
The long bed/short bed thing is a tough one.



The rest of the equation would be easy for me to answer. Don't do it! You have a manual transmission, with 4. 10s. Try putting an exhaust brake on your 12valve, it will seem like a new towing rig. Before you go with an auto transmission, go test it down a few long hills. Put your 12valve thru the same tests. You won't trade.



My exhaust brake gives me a lot of comfort when towing. The pucker factor is way down. It is easily my most used accessory.
 
I consider a '98 12V Ram to be one of the most desirable Dodge/Cummins pickups to own. I do love my 2001 ETH but it will never run as smooth as a 12valve or get as good of mileage. Sometimes I think if I had it to do all over again I'd take a more serious look at a used 12V, but I'm stickin' with the ETH :)



Vaughn
 
I wouldn't trade 4. 10 gears for 3. 55 just for the long bed. Spend your money on one of those Pullrite auto sliding hitches and forget about hitting the cab. Now if you run across an HO 6sp, that's a different deal.
 
I hate to say it,but you'd be getting rid of the most reliable combo-12v/stick,for the most unreliable combo-24v/auto.



Towing? Gotta get an exhaust brake. You can make the auto reliable,if you want to spend 2-3k doing so... but the stick does it all stock.

The most I've towed with both my trucks is a trailer loaded to 4000#'s. The auto trans truck is scarry going down hills,while the manual trans truck with the exhaust brake is a dream!



I like my 24v truck,but if it were to go away,it would be replaced with a '98 12v. You can do alot more tweaking and fine tuning with a 12v(better mileage). Put an exhaust brake and a set of 265/75's on your '98 and it will drive like a different truck.



-Mike
 
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I had one of the last 12 valve/first quadcabs to hit Oklahoma(early '98 model with 4:10s with 5sp) and it was a great pickup, especially after the I installed the torque plate, exhaust and gauges. But the ride was sort of rough (smoothed out a bunch when the trailor was loaded and hooked on). When I traded in june of 2000 for this 2001 ETH/DEE 3500 with 3:54s there was no comparison in the ride! As far as power goes (not that I would void my warrenty :D ) the performance upgrades are there and getting better all the time. Also forget about the 4:10s you don't need them unless your loads are extremly heavy. Also milage is very close (18-20 on both vehicles).
 
Trade right.....

Steve, trading a 98 for a 01 is a teriffic idea!!!! But make sure the 01 can compete on the same footing as the 98. If you had found a 01 with a 5 or 6 speed and the same gears then that would be the trade. The truck you are looking at will pull okay but with the auto and 3:54 gears it is a little handicapped. If you could find a ETH/DEE with 3:54 gears it will run circles around your 98. Its apples to apples, no 98 or older truck will keep up with the newer 24v trucks when the gears and trannys are the same... ... ..... Pete
 
Pete,

Good advise, people have to remember to compare apples to apples to get a true comparision. stick to auto- no comparision, and i own a auto for the wifes ease of operation. I watched a 6-speed dodge hooked up to a sizeable camper back into a grade so steep it would make a mountain goat cringe. I stood there (laughing to myself) and waited to see how he was going to manage the throttle, brake ,and clutch all at one time while trying to pull out of the spot he was in. Well to my amasement he just let the clutch out slowly and the cummins pulled that rig right out of there with no problems. The next truck will definatley be a manual, this i say after being in the mountains and in particular watching this guys truck in action.

Ron
 
Good point Ron, I got rid of a 99 auto 4X4 3500. Really loved the truck, BUT it just didn't pull like this 6 speed does. 13,000 lbs tractor second gear start on level ground no throttle pressure at all, just motor, amazing... ... ... Pete
 
Hey fellers,

Thanks for all the replies and I have to admit, they're all true but I had to weigh this one on my own personal likes. True the 98 12v is a real performer, but I missed the lumbering 1750rpm of my 95 auto. 3. 54 at 65mph. 2500rpm with the 5spd/4. 10 all day long gets alittle tiring even though that's were the performance is. True the manual is more dependable but $265 for a clutch master cylinder kit and the possibility of 5th gear failure isn't totally trouble free. This truck shifts totally different than my 95 did with it's 47RH. This one shifts firm and it delays OD and clutch lockup until you let up on the throttle and settle into a cruise. Nice touch like tow mode on the Chevy. The ISB seems to be somewhat quieter than the B. Maybe not with a db meter which I have and will post the results of a comparison but just by the sound in the cab at idle and driving. We'll be going on a trip with the 5th wheel this month and I'll post the honest results when we return. DBs and MPG and seat of the pants power feel.

I also bought a Durango SLT Plus for the Mrs. It's patriot blue and pewter with dark grey interior. After reading the Consumer Reports impression of it I was alittle leary but "rides like a truck" to me is nothing like the firm assuring ride of the Durango. It's very quiet and the mild exhaust note from the 4. 7L V8 is music to the ears. I rate the ride and drivability far above my sister's Toyota 4Runner. Just my ever so humble opinion.

Now I gotta change my signature.
 
When I do finally put my 89 out to pasture, it will be for a 98 12 valve without a doubt. Meanwhile, I'll be happy with my new Tundra to take care of quad cab needs, and my 89 for towing needs. I don't see a 24 valve in my future.
 
I have to disagree, pete, I haven't found a 24v that could pull as good as a 12v. The 24v has no where near the low rpm torque as the 12ver!
 
Hmmm,



The long box is a definite plus when towing the 5vr. I have a '98 12V, 3. 54 w/AT, the truck was gutless before mod's. The cam plate added the power and the DTT vb & tc now gets the power to the ground. Next upgrade will be injectors. If you buy a 24V, I would definetly go with the 4. 10's with an AT and then go see Bill @ DTT for a vb & tc. I would not recomend a 24V, AT with 3. 54 based on a friends 01 and my brothers 01. 5 (both 3. 54, AT's) experience. My friends 01 has been to DTT for vb, tc, injectors, EZ box and exhaust brake and runs super strong NOW, he also pulls a 12,000 lb (DRY WEIGHT) 5vr with NO PROBLEM... ... . but it took a lot of upgrades to get to that point. I think the new 24V's sound, ride, brake and drive better than my '98, but I still get better fuel econmy than the 24V and I can outpull my brother with his stock 01. 5. Just my . 02 cent worth.
 
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