Trailer brake questions

[pwr2tow]

I sold my camper and bought a different camper. When I delivered my camper everything worked great. I went and bought a different camper and when I hooked it up the brake controler does not work properly. It's a tekonsha.

When plugged in the green light comes on. When I step on the brakes the light does not turn to orange and no trailer brakes. I can adjust control gain and still nothing. Truck brake lights work o. k. If I slide the lever on the controller the green light turns to orange and the trailer brakes work. adjusting gain and using lever also works properly. Checked the blue plug under the dash and everything seems fine. Really cold out right now and don't want to freeze looking for the problem.

Why don't the brakes on the trailer work when I step on the truck brakes and the trailer brakes do work when I use the slide lever?

 

[JDecanter]

I don't know what your problem may be. I have been towing travel trailers for more than 30 years. I had just about given up on having trailer brakes work they way they did when I used the hydraulic controller. When I bought my 06, I decided to try what so many on this sight were praising: Prodigy. I am happy to report that it works, not as good as the old type units, but very nearly. I set it the first time I towed and have not had to reset it. I also, do not sell anything.

 

[dmhollister]

Had a similar problem when buying a new camper and found that the camper plug was wired different than the truck plug. The center pole and 7th pole were switched. Now works fine. Just a place to look.

 

[MacHaggis]

I'd also suggest checking out the trailer end. Special attention to whether it's grounded through the plug or the frame.



6 or 7 pin? Could be, as suggested above, that the hot and the brake are switched on the trailer from what you were running, especially (or at least more likely) if a 6-pin.



Do the brakes actually grab when you use the manual slider, or is the pilot light merely acting right? If not, that'd point even more to the possibility of having some crosswiring in the plugs.

 

[PWitteveen]

Check the fuse for the center brake light. That controls the electrical for the trailer brakes. I had the same problem and I called the dealer. That was their suggestion. Found the fuse was blown. Fixed my problem.

 

[pwr2tow]

Just to try and clear it up a little more. Everything works as it should, all the lights, blinkers, brake lights, park lights everything. The brakes grab by slideing the manual control. The only thing that does not work is when I step on the brakes, then the trailer brakes do not work. Thought that maybe a fuse was blown too because it seems like there is no signal from foot brake to controler for the controler to close the switch for trailer brakes to come on. I looked but couldn't find any fuse that looked blown. Guess I'll have to get out the ohm meter soon and see if a fuse is blown.

PWitteveen,
You mentioned a fuse for center brake light. Could you please explain where this fuse is. My power distribution box under the hood does not list a center brake light fuse. The 06 trucks do not have a fuse box in drivers compartment any more.

 

[RustyJC]

It certainly sounds like your controller isn't getting a brake light signal. Time for the voltmeter/ohmmeter.



Rusty

 

[Dieselnerd]

If my memory is correct, doesn't the 2006 and up use a computer programmed "circuit breaker" that has to be reset by the dealer if it trips? It's really not a true breaker, the computer cuts off the power to the circuit, sort of a "virtual breaker". I seem to recall reading about someone else that had a similar problem with an '06 and had to take it to the dealer.

 

[Fireman Dave]

My Tekonsha controller (Envoy model) has 3 adjustments on it. One is the gain - the knob on the front, one is the manual control - the sliding lever, and the 3rd is a leveling wheel on the underside of the controller. I have to make adjustments to the leveling wheel from time to time to keep the gain knob responsive. Not sure if you have the same model, but what you describe sounds a lot like the way mine was acting at the beginning of last year. An adjustment to the leveling wheel got it to come around and work properly again.

 

[Prairie Dog]

It must be hooked up correctly or it wouldn't apply the brake when you use the manual lever.

Have you actually driven the rig like this and tried the brakes? If not then I would give it a try. Other than that either the level adj is out of adjustment or if your just sitting parked and your truck is in an uphill attitude, the brake may not apply.



Scotty

 

[WTurney]

This sounds like the problem to me... I adjust the dial on mine all the time, low seeting in town and crank it up on the highway, so the trailer brakes aren't jamming on at every stoplight. If you adjust it enough the brakes will barely come on but using the slider I believe over rides the low setting. The light operates just as it should at any level. Hope this helps.

 

[pwr2tow]

Update, Thanks for the replys.

Dieselnerd,
The circuit breaker your referring to is the TIPM and when that trips the trailer lights or turn signals do not work. Not sure if it controls anything else but all the light (tail, clearance, brake, signal) work perfect.

Prairie Dog,
yes the brakes work on manual mode, I was traveling when I tried them.

Fireman Dave,
I didn't try the level knob just the gain and manual apply brake slide so it could possibly be the level needs to be adjusted. The only problem is that when I delivered my camper everything worked great. It was on the way home with my new camper that I noticed the brakes did not work anymore.

RustyJC,
Pulled out the ohm meter and all fuses are good. I then grabbed the circuit tester and went under the dash. Checked the wires coming out of the blue box DC supplies for wires for brake controller, there are four wires. According to my circuit tester One wire is hot at all times, one wire turns on the green light, one wire lights the circuit tester when I apply the foot brake, one wire I don't know what it's for since the test light didn't come on for that wire, I'am assuming ground wire.

To me it looks like my controller is shot. If you guys think differently or something else is amiss please let me know before I buy another one I don't need.

 

[pwr2tow]

WTurney,
I always have to adjust mine also from highway to city driving but no matter how much I adjusted it nothing happened except when I applied the manual brake slide on the controler. Then it would work normal, more gain = more brake power, less gain = less brake power. The trailer brakes just don't work in conjuction with the foot brake.

 

[Dieselnerd]

Well, if you are getting voltage when you step on the foot brake it shoots down my theory of not getting that signal because of TIPM (learned a new term). I tend to agree that you may need a new controller.



Having recently gone through a very long process with my BrakeSmart intermittently blowing fuses which was cured with a new controller, I know how you're feeling. Fortunately Dr. Performance replaced mine free even though it was out of warranty.

 

[PToombs]

Borrow somebody elses trailer and try it. That will tell you if the problem is truck or trailer. Seems strange that the new railer doesn't work, and the other did. My . 02.

 

[pwr2tow]

Thanks to everyone for your responses.

Looks like it's going to be awhile before I get to hook up the trailer again. There predicting temperature highs of -15* to lows of -30* for the next few days and winds in excess of 30 MPH. :{ Gota love where I live though.

 

[Fireman Dave]

P2T:



I had a very similar experience last summer with mine - I think it was on the maiden voyage of the year. I usually don't have to mess with the leveling dial at all, but this one time I didn't seem to have any response from the pedal to the controller. I played around with the leveling dial and finally got it to respond as normal. I don't know if it was what I did with the leveling dial or if it got a better connection after I hooked it up again. The controller being on it's way to the grave could be a possibility too - although I don't know how they die - if it's quick or gradual.

 

[PWitteveen]

PWitteveen,

You mentioned a fuse for center brake light. Could you please explain where this fuse is. My power distribution box under the hood does not list a center brake light fuse. The 06 trucks do not have a fuse box in drivers compartment any more.

I don't remember how the fuse was labeled. My fuse panel is under the hood, to the right of the engine. I can look in the morning and post what I find. I wouldn't buy a new controller until you are positive it doesn't work. I almost bought a new one, but I called the dealer to bring the truck in under warranty to have them check the 7-pin connector. The service manager told me which fuse to check. He also said this is a common problem.

 

[Ragain]

My first controller was a Teckonshia... I threw it away because I was always having to level it for the inertia control to work properly. I tried a Prodigy (self leveling) & problem was solved. Half a million miles later and still works great!

 

[Cattletrkr]

My first controller was a Teckonshia... I threw it away because I was always having to level it for the inertia control to work properly. I tried a Prodigy (self leveling) & problem was solved. Half a million miles later and still works great!

Your Prodigy IS a Tekonsha.



P2T, get yourself a LED trailer plug emulator. It plugs into the 7-way and has lights for everything except for the ground, which is required for the emulator to work. It won't help you pinpoint where on the truck the problem is, but it will tell you for sure if it is the truck or the trailer. I think they're $20-25. I'll post a pic if I can find it again.