Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Just thought I would put a quick post out there for anyone considering doing this to clear the area near the engine block on the pass. side.
I decided to move my stock exchanger instead of losing it and plumbing in additional coolers. While I know many guys have deleted this cooler with no problems, I wanted to ensure at least the same level of cooling performance I currently have. I did not like the idea of having additional coolers radiating heat into the path of the radiator and CAC.
I know that most, if not all, the trans builders just add secondary cooling. So, I am not saying that one is right and one is wrong. It's just the way I decided to do it.
And I have to give credit to BKirk for helping me with pictures and info from his install.
Basically, it's pretty straight forward. After getting the cooler off the block and on the workbench, I was able to ***** how much bracket to cut. I did this by placing the cooler in the stock orientation, fittings pointing down and the water lines pointing towards the passenger side. I held the coller *** high as it would go and made some marks on the bracket.
Using a cutoff wheel, I removed anything above this line. Since there was not much to hang on to from there, I got some help adding some new brackets. So, after laying under Rip Rook's truck to "take a look", we decided that some 3/16" flat stock would do the trick. So, off to the chop saw I go and cut 2 8" long straps. Bring those to the bench and Rip throws some beads down on everything. That part was done and I was able to start drilling holes.
I decided to hold the new setup up under the crossmember and get some holes marked. Since my crossmember is a square tube, I decided to use "Riv nuts". They have other names, but basically, they are steel or alloy blind nuts. I used steel. So, I marked and drilled pilot holes in the bracket. I used these holes to mark the cross member. Then all the holes were drilled, riv nuts installed and the bracketry got it's final paint before getting installed. I used some flange bolts and some blue lock tite for good measure.
I did want to save my stock crossover line and hard line to the front of the engine, but it proved to be too difficult to mess with. So, I had a local hose shop put an inverted flare 90* on the end of a line. This is the tightest bend they make and it fits perfectly with the stock steel return line in place. No, I did not remove the factory busing that goes from pipe to flare. At about 1 foot from that point, I had another flare end installed. This connected to a Flare to Flare "Tee" with a pipe threaded bushing for my trans temp sender.
From there, it was another flare end and on front to the coolers new location, another 90*flare. On the return side of the cooler, I used a taller 90* flare fitting and I double clamped the hose to it. From there, it goes to the factory cooler out front and then back to the trans through the stock steel line. The pressure line is 305* rated line. It should never be an issue. And follows the factory lines near the engine pan rail, over the crossmember and just past the steering gear. I used about 4-1/2' of line and about 2 feet for the return.
Also, I had to make up a couple of new hard water lines. Actually, you could get away with all rubber. But, I felt steel lines would be cleaner. Following BKirks advice, I ran the lines straight down behind the AC compressor. These are simple 5/8" lines. Both have a 45* angle in them. 1 is about 4" from the bend and the other is about 2". The length is decided by the installer and easily trimmed. Also, I used the factory 90* rubber coolant lines canted down 45*. This worked great!
The hook up to the cooler was made using 2 preformed 90* collant hoses. I slid one end up on the steel and clamped it. Then I worked my way forward. I used the factory steel line and cut out 2 90* sections of it. Then everything was just cut to length and clamped.
All in all, not too bad of a project. Took more time running back and forth to the hose shop than anything else. I would recommend that you get all the ends and parts needed and then go home and mock it up. That way, the hose can be cut and you'll just need the ends attached. Per Bill K, he recommended getting all the lines "made" as there is a bunch of pressure on the hot side. I did not take his advice on the return side and I hope that it does not bite me in the rear.
Anyway, don't be too afraid of this one. I will get a parts list and product numbers posted for those that are interested. BTW, my trans is even cooler running now. I assume that is due to a true 1/2" line out of the trans. As the factory line appeared a bit crimped. Or maybe because it lost a few feet of line? I dunno.
Looks like I am going to have to fill some empty space now...
Dave
I decided to move my stock exchanger instead of losing it and plumbing in additional coolers. While I know many guys have deleted this cooler with no problems, I wanted to ensure at least the same level of cooling performance I currently have. I did not like the idea of having additional coolers radiating heat into the path of the radiator and CAC.
I know that most, if not all, the trans builders just add secondary cooling. So, I am not saying that one is right and one is wrong. It's just the way I decided to do it.
And I have to give credit to BKirk for helping me with pictures and info from his install.
Basically, it's pretty straight forward. After getting the cooler off the block and on the workbench, I was able to ***** how much bracket to cut. I did this by placing the cooler in the stock orientation, fittings pointing down and the water lines pointing towards the passenger side. I held the coller *** high as it would go and made some marks on the bracket.
Using a cutoff wheel, I removed anything above this line. Since there was not much to hang on to from there, I got some help adding some new brackets. So, after laying under Rip Rook's truck to "take a look", we decided that some 3/16" flat stock would do the trick. So, off to the chop saw I go and cut 2 8" long straps. Bring those to the bench and Rip throws some beads down on everything. That part was done and I was able to start drilling holes.
I decided to hold the new setup up under the crossmember and get some holes marked. Since my crossmember is a square tube, I decided to use "Riv nuts". They have other names, but basically, they are steel or alloy blind nuts. I used steel. So, I marked and drilled pilot holes in the bracket. I used these holes to mark the cross member. Then all the holes were drilled, riv nuts installed and the bracketry got it's final paint before getting installed. I used some flange bolts and some blue lock tite for good measure.
I did want to save my stock crossover line and hard line to the front of the engine, but it proved to be too difficult to mess with. So, I had a local hose shop put an inverted flare 90* on the end of a line. This is the tightest bend they make and it fits perfectly with the stock steel return line in place. No, I did not remove the factory busing that goes from pipe to flare. At about 1 foot from that point, I had another flare end installed. This connected to a Flare to Flare "Tee" with a pipe threaded bushing for my trans temp sender.
From there, it was another flare end and on front to the coolers new location, another 90*flare. On the return side of the cooler, I used a taller 90* flare fitting and I double clamped the hose to it. From there, it goes to the factory cooler out front and then back to the trans through the stock steel line. The pressure line is 305* rated line. It should never be an issue. And follows the factory lines near the engine pan rail, over the crossmember and just past the steering gear. I used about 4-1/2' of line and about 2 feet for the return.
Also, I had to make up a couple of new hard water lines. Actually, you could get away with all rubber. But, I felt steel lines would be cleaner. Following BKirks advice, I ran the lines straight down behind the AC compressor. These are simple 5/8" lines. Both have a 45* angle in them. 1 is about 4" from the bend and the other is about 2". The length is decided by the installer and easily trimmed. Also, I used the factory 90* rubber coolant lines canted down 45*. This worked great!
The hook up to the cooler was made using 2 preformed 90* collant hoses. I slid one end up on the steel and clamped it. Then I worked my way forward. I used the factory steel line and cut out 2 90* sections of it. Then everything was just cut to length and clamped.
All in all, not too bad of a project. Took more time running back and forth to the hose shop than anything else. I would recommend that you get all the ends and parts needed and then go home and mock it up. That way, the hose can be cut and you'll just need the ends attached. Per Bill K, he recommended getting all the lines "made" as there is a bunch of pressure on the hot side. I did not take his advice on the return side and I hope that it does not bite me in the rear.
Anyway, don't be too afraid of this one. I will get a parts list and product numbers posted for those that are interested. BTW, my trans is even cooler running now. I assume that is due to a true 1/2" line out of the trans. As the factory line appeared a bit crimped. Or maybe because it lost a few feet of line? I dunno.
Looks like I am going to have to fill some empty space now...
Dave
