Trans Issue(s)

[ttm]

I assumed I would be into front end issues given the mileage. But hoped to get a little more than 1400 miles into the truck before it became clear that that needed to be addressed more promptly than previously figured. But when they are done they are done, lol. Also having switched from a 5. 9l gas 1500 to the diesel one ton, I think I substantially underestimated the cost of such repairs.



Do you do your own or take it to a shop? Curious about what I should expect to pay in labor for this work (Axle U-joints and Ball Joints) Been researching the various options on ball joints, Carli, Dynatrac, OEM's and Moog. Given what I have heard about the labor involved in the deal wondering if it is worth investing in Carli or Dynatrac.

the dodge dealer here quoted 1600 to replace all four ball joints, being a retired mechanic I decided to do it myself, (I started off in a front end sop back in the days of king pins <g>)



back to the job, I had some help from my son for the heavy stuff, I did not take the adapters off, (mine is a dually) I would rent the proper press from places like advance, autozones press is the car/light truck model and too small, they are cheap presses, look over the kit before you take it home, if any of the receivers are bent in the kit, that will be the one you need, get a different kit! if your going to buy one, buy the OTC at least, (I have the PTC light truck press, it is just small enough to be a pain so I went and rented the larger one from advance, I think summits is made by the same company you can rent for free from advance, I looked at their kit in their store... .



as far as ball joints, I would not put moog in it, I would go back to oem first, I had to get one moog, then had to go back and get another as the press on plate was loose on the moog, there is also XRF which is supposed to be top notch as well, I wish I had just ordered them, but I let myself run out of time - procrastination is the root of all evil :-laf.



replace your u-joints at the same time, be prepared to buy wheel bearings at the same time, call around and see who might have at least one in stock, doing one side at a time and you won;t pour out your gear lube as long as you only lift one side of truck at a time, have at least a small propane torch at hand, you will need a 250lb torque wrench which also can be rented, it is not a bad job, just be sure to press in your joints straight, be sure to use the proper depth receivers in the BJ press kit or you can ruin your ball joint

 

[cowboysgottacummins]

Great information, and thank you. I ask because a good friend of mine has a decent size shop he works out of part-time for extra cash. He does my work and never charges me even close to market rate. He is planning to do the front end work for me, I'll help. But I often don't know what it should have cost. I usually take what he says I owe him and add a couple of hundred. I. E. He charged about $100 to install all three driveline u-joints and install the governor solenoid in the transmission. He passes his part cost on to me directly, no mark up. I know this front end job is farily big and I want to be sure he is paid fairly.

He is self taught and doesn't do a lot of work on one tons and diesels, (his lift is only rated at 10k lbs) and does mostly straight forward and quick stuff, alternators, oil changes, belts, hoses brakes etc, unless you can leave it for days for him to get to it. But a few of his close friends have diesels and he did some work for a while on big rigs full time so he is willing to dive into anything, and always figures it out in the end and makes it right. But he is two hours away from where I live and works a regular gig that is 7 days a week 2nd shift. SO I like to do as much advance research as possible before we dive into something that is this involved so we can get parts on hand. Hard to get parts on weekends after Noon from his suppliers.

He is a great friend and I just want to make sure I do everything I can to help him helping me. I am a contractor and so we trade services as well and there is of course an endless supply of his favorite beer, on me, at all times

My 03 5. 9l Gasser lost the limit slip clutch pack and we dove into a locker install (to replace the limit slip) which had me down for over a week because we didn't plan in advance and he had never done rear end work like that. He worked it out and for half of what the local 4wheelparts store wanted for it.

Thanks for the information!

 

[LBARTLETT]

sounds like you have a great friend and so does he



I've never done ball joints as I'm not mechanical enough and the threads show they can be a bear at times



good luck!

 

[ttm]

Great information, and thank you. I ask because a good friend of mine has a decent size shop he works out of part-time for extra cash. He does my work and never charges me even close to market rate. He is planning to do the front end work for me, I'll help. But I often don't know what it should have cost. I usually take what he says I owe him and add a couple of hundred. I. E. He charged about $100 to install all three driveline u-joints and install the governor solenoid in the transmission. He passes his part cost on to me directly, no mark up. I know this front end job is farily big and I want to be sure he is paid fairly.



He is self taught and doesn't do a lot of work on one tons and diesels, (his lift is only rated at 10k lbs) and does mostly straight forward and quick stuff, alternators, oil changes, belts, hoses brakes etc, unless you can leave it for days for him to get to it. But a few of his close friends have diesels and he did some work for a while on big rigs full time so he is willing to dive into anything, and always figures it out in the end and makes it right. But he is two hours away from where I live and works a regular gig that is 7 days a week 2nd shift. SO I like to do as much advance research as possible before we dive into something that is this involved so we can get parts on hand. Hard to get parts on weekends after Noon from his suppliers.



He is a great friend and I just want to make sure I do everything I can to help him helping me. I am a contractor and so we trade services as well and there is of course an endless supply of his favorite beer, on me, at all times



My 03 5. 9l Gasser lost the limit slip clutch pack and we dove into a locker install (to replace the limit slip) which had me down for over a week because we didn't plan in advance and he had never done rear end work like that. He worked it out and for half of what the local 4wheelparts store wanted for it.



Thanks for the information!

well heating will help, but do not overheat the axle or knuckles, there are some good threads on how to do the ball joints, like I said, I did not remove the front dually spacers, which makes the rotor/hub assembly heavy!



if he can do ball joints in a car, he can do them on a truck, if htere is not a thread here, there is one at cumminsforums on ball joint replacements, be sure not to drag the axle out you can damage the inner seal that way, find those threads and read them and you will understand giving him any tips that come along, and for the record, just order all four ball joints now if you don;t go with the 800 dollar setup I would at least buy XRF at XRF Chassis | Automotive and Heavy Duty Chassis Parts | Ball Joints I would call them today to make sure they have them in stock for your truck,



, I wasn't even impressed with the napa premium brand, and DO NOT USE MADE IN CHINA

 

[BGlidewell]

in case someone needs to know where the TTVA is located

also note:

To recalibrate the TTVA motor you will need to follow the below

procedure:

TURN KEY ON (KOEO) THEN OFF THREE TIMES, THEN LEAVE THE

KEY IN THE ON POSITION (KOEO) FOR 1 FULL MINUTE.

 

[cowboysgottacummins]

in case someone needs to know where the TTVA is located

also note:

To recalibrate the TTVA motor you will need to follow the below

procedure:

TURN KEY ON (KOEO) THEN OFF THREE TIMES, THEN LEAVE THE

KEY IN THE ON POSITION (KOEO) FOR 1 FULL MINUTE.

Great info! Thanks!

 

[cowboysgottacummins]

well heating will help, but do not overheat the axle or knuckles, there are some good threads on how to do the ball joints, like I said, I did not remove the front dually spacers, which makes the rotor/hub assembly heavy!



if he can do ball joints in a car, he can do them on a truck, if htere is not a thread here, there is one at cumminsforums on ball joint replacements, be sure not to drag the axle out you can damage the inner seal that way, find those threads and read them and you will understand giving him any tips that come along, and for the record, just order all four ball joints now if you don;t go with the 800 dollar setup I would at least buy XRF at XRF Chassis | Automotive and Heavy Duty Chassis Parts | Ball Joints I would call them today to make sure they have them in stock for your truck,



, I wasn't even impressed with the napa premium brand, and DO NOT USE MADE IN CHINA

I am leaning heavily toward the Carli Or Dynatrac Pro-Steer, if I can hold out a little longer should be able to get the funds together. He has done them before on cars, and a few F-350's so not too worried. I shared one of the threads with him and he said it was about what he expected, we'll likely cut out the u joints with a torch, I saw a thread here that a guy tried to press them out and that didn't look fun at all, lol.

 

[cowboysgottacummins]

Provided UPS arrives this afternoon, this labor day weekend will bring the install of Banks Economind w Banks IQ. Stinger Calibration. Other parts arrive next week essentially will be the full Stinger system less the Banks exhaust as I already have a 5" t-back system . Anxious to see how it all shakes out. If adding the power doesn't straighten out the trans mod from above, I'll advance the TTVA as recommended. But how could i pass up the add HP and your problems will go away. Was a "must act now" before my ol' lady figures out that I am completely full of crap and created my own problem in the first place. lol.

 

[mfrost]

I had launch shudder on mine when towing only and while turning. Adding the limited slip friction additve took care of that. Dealer said I didn't need it but I did.