Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Trans Issues

[budnate]

electronics... dont you just love it,lol... . you would think that POT would have fixed you... one other thing I noticed but have not bumped into a electronics wizz to ask him, should have mentioned this earlier... . I noticed after dinking with mine one day the resistors I bought had different values like 68 ohm or 120ohms... . what I noticed was some were 1/8th watt some 1/4 watt, some 10 Watt... etc... . it appears to me they dont always land at the right resistance because of the 5 VDC signal and wattage rating for the resistor... . so wattage rating does matter I beleive, we just need to figure out what is best with a 5VDC +- signal, your pot may have been to small and you were overpowering it, I still need to get mine finalized also I am still running around with mine aligator cliped in, I will report back later when I get a pot and ask a real electronics guy some questions about what we are doing.



well you now know how the electrical side of one of these works, you took the long road like me, we claim its in the water hear, a fella get's to do everything at least 3 times... sometimes more, lol... ... , your gonna laugh but I would throw a bottle of Lucas transmission sauce in it, if your gonna linp it around it may help it some, I am a believer of there products it actually works as they say.



Peace, B.

 

[fest3er]

P(power) = I(current) * V(voltage)

If you have a 1/4W resistor and 5VDC, you'd better not draw more than 50mW through it (. 25W = . 05A * 5V). These lines probably draw closer to . 1A to . 5A (100mA-500mA), possibly even more. If you need a variable resistor, get a 5W-10W (large) one. If it ain't hot after being in use for a while, it's probably big enough. If it's hot enough to boil water, it's too small.

You might be able to measure the resistance across the governor, and calculate the power: P=V*V/R. Suppose you measure 150 ohms across the governor; the circuit should then draw 5 * 5 / 150, or . 167W; a 1/4W resistor should be OK.

And to be pedantic, the other equation is P = I*I*R, for when you don't know the voltage.

 

[PToombs]

Well, my temp light came on a couple times on the way to work, and once on the way home. Trans was not warm both times. On the way home I was on the highway doing about 65 and it dropped out of OD. I locked it out for a minute, and when I unlocked it it went in and stayed. It set the code, but didn't go into limp mode.

This truck is growing on me, I washed it on monday and it came up about 4 more shades to almost white. Looks 1/2 way decent now.



Neal, the potentiometer I used was a 1k ohm, 15 turn, . 75 watts. I don't know diddly about electronics stuff. What does the star signify in your formula?

Maybe the potentiometer was too small?

 

[Missouri Mule]

The "star" is a symbol used for "multiply" as in 2x2=4 (2*2=4)

 

[PToombs]

Oh, that was simple! I never would have thought of it that way though.

Thanks Bill!

 

[PToombs]

OK, new issue! Now it has a new quirk, the converter locks up at 45 mph, and unlocks at between 60 and 65 and stays out. I noticed a few days ago it seemed to lock up way low. Then friday it was unlocked on the highway on the way home. I was playing with it today, it stays locked in until some place between 60 and 63-65 depending on how hard you're on it, then it unlocks and won't lock back in until you slow back down to that speed.



What do you think?

 

[budnate]

mine did that to, ontop of the other bs in the pan, its why it was so hard to figure out for me, once I modded my TPS switch to rotate and set the voltage and installed a new brake switch that converter issue went away.

 

[PToombs]

I opened the holes in the TPS and had it set for . 96. I planned on going more and getting it up to 1. 1 or 2. I guess now is a good time. :-laf

Brake switch huh? Okey dokey!

I'm about ready to put a Getrag in this darn thing. I'm starting to get the feeling it doesn't like me!

Thanks again Bud!

 

[budnate]

I here ya my gauges went bezerk over the weekend,#@$%!... I am about to shove it out in the street and throw a match on it and have that crazy laugh watching it burn.



anyway look at the brake switch, dodge set them to tight. . barely any brake pedal action makes or brakes them, the pedal needs to be adjusted up a tad to open up the switch a tad, which will make it to high in my opnion for most people... I liked where my pedal was at so I split a 3/8 fuel line and put it on the brake pedal arm up where it makes contact with the switch and zipp tied it as a test. . I also stuck a new switch in as my pile has 250k+ on it... so it had to be about shot... still rolling happy that way so i aint messing with it.



pop yours out and try to clean it with wd 40 and stick it back in and take it for a drive when it acts weird try to hook your foot under the pedal and pull it up firm and see if it locks up.

 

[PToombs]

I checked the brake switch. I can move it about an inch before the brake lights come on. I had the scanner on it and it reads about the same.

I drove to work with the scanner on it today. Had the trans temp hot code that wouldn't clear, and the temp stayed at 108 all the way to work, about 10 miles. Actual guage showed about 135 or so. Looks like I'll be getting a new sensor when I swap trannys.

Oh, and the TPS is down to . 92 v also.

I got the green machine back together so I can drive that for a while.