Transmission Change

[DarrylBurks]

Hello, I have a 2014 2500 with the 68RFE Transmission with close to 58,000 miles. I'm considering changing the fluid myself for the first time. I have done the common maintenance on the vehicle already, yearly oil changes, fuel filter changes, front and rear end fluids.
I have some questions to confirm I am comfortable doing this service myself;
1. I tow a FW with a GVW of 12,500 pounds, should I use synthetic or OEM fluid?
2. Considering using the Mag-hytec pan, how has the gasket held up against leaks and heavy use?
3. Confirming all I need to do is drop the pan, let it drain as long as possible and replace the two filters?
My local dealer said they do not recommend flushing this system.
4. A different question for you towers out there, I have original shocks, looking at the Bilstein 4600, input on this shock and has it helped with handling/ride while towing?

Another issue is getting water in cab at the C post passenger side when it rains heavy. I have not researched this yet on the forum, but other resources point to the third brake light as the issue, can anyone confirm?

I got on a roll, with the questions, but I am a question guy.

Thanks for your input.

Darryl

 

[AH64ID]

ATF+4 is all synthetic, group III, so it’s up to you. The stock stuff seems to work great but there are other options if you want.

The MH pans are very high quality and should seal just like the OEM pan.

I’ll let other chime in on the process.

Bilsteins are fantastic shocks, and have always performed better than OEM for me.

Not sure on your water leak.

 

[DarrylBurks]

ATF+4 is all synthetic, group III, so it’s up to you. The stock stuff seems to work great but there are other options if you want.

The MH pans are very high quality and should seal just like the OEM pan.

I’ll let other chime in on the process.

Bilsteins are fantastic shocks, and have always performed better than OEM for me.

Not sure on your water leak.

Thanks, I should have researched the fluid more, instead of listening to others.

 

[Jim W]

I agree on the use of a Mag-Hytec pan for the transmission, if you go this route it will take about 9.5 Quarts to fill the transmission. I do tow heavy, I am towing a 34RL Cedar Creek with my truck. The transmission oil is changed about every 40,000 to 50,000 miles using the Napa ATF+4 oil for the transmission. I purchase my filters from Geno's Garage, our sponsor for this site. I do use reuse the gasket on the Mag-Hytec pan changing the gasket every other fluid change.

I agree do not flush your transmission. I have never flushed a major component that is protected by a filter. I have been servicing my vehicles for over 6 decades and never had an issue with a transmission that was not flushed.

You will need a large catch basin for the first oil change, as there is no drain plug for the stock transmission pan. I simply let the oil drain from the trans and replace both filters after the transmission has drained I reinstall the new filters installing the screwed on filter first than the other filter next. Install the pan and fill according to the service instructions.

I replaced my stock shocks with the Blistein 5100 series shock at 110,000 miles. The front part number is BIL-24-185-776, Rear part number is BIL24-191-203 sold thru Geno's Garage, these are their part numbers from Geno's. The reason I went with the 5100 series is I did not like the looks of Yellow and Blue shocks on a Sliver and Black truck.

Sorry, I can't help on the water issue either.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Do NOT flush your transmission but IMHO if you want to get ALL the old fluid out it's EASY with the 68 to do a FLUID EXCHANGE.

If interested PM me as I don't want to get a select FEW in a TIZZY and I will let you know how easy it is to change ALL the fluid.

I highly recommend AMZ/OIL Signature Series ATF.

65k on truck with over 50k on AMZ/OIL using the MagHytec. This is a VERY clean pan!!!

Also 2/3 of those miles were towing HEAVY West Coast at 29K combined.

 

[sag2]

Most common leak area would be the CHMSL. Before you just reseal it, when you know it is going to rain hard, tape over the light completely and see if it leaks. If it does you need to look further.
Also if you have a sunroof it could be a plugged drain line.

 

[Cummins12V98]

AW what the heck, it's been too calm on here the last few days!!!

PM I sent to an openminded TDR member upon his request.


I have posted it before but every time I mention it I get crap from the peanut gallery. MY logic is why the HE!! change part of the fluid.

First know that the trans is FULL when checking it when at full operating temp on level ground. I drain pan, easy for you now! Nice job. I replace filters and pan then add back exactly the amount you drained, now you are "FULL" again.

Drivers side back side of radiator near top prior to doing the job determine the outgoing line from the radiator that way the cooler gets flushed also.

Once determined pop apart the connection. Find a hose that will slip over the line that's long enough to get to a container on the floor or bench. Have someone start truck it will start pumping out fluid, be ready to shut off quickly if you have wrong end. May be smart to do a start stop quickly. Start truck when a couple quarts have discharged shut off the truck. Measure the quantity of fluid and refill. I usually let it run til it sputters and shut off and measure. You decide method. I then measure what I just pumped out and refill that same amount. Now you are "FULL" again.

Wash rinse and repeat until you see a dramatic color difference in the fluid color. Measure and fill, place the line back on now you are done!

Really simple to do, I did my 01 Sport last Summer. Connection on it was down low on drivers side.

Bummer is I have not figured a way to do my AISIN.

Let me know if you do it. Sorry not exact info on line as it's been 5 years since doing the exchange. It's a great way to IMHO.

 

[JR]

As has been mentioned any fluid with ATF+4 label has to meet licensing requirements and is a quality group III oil.
I've used whatever is on sale, Supertech, Valvoline, etc.

I retained the OEM pan and have been changing at the shorter recommended intervals. I did add a drain plug to make dropping the oil alot easier and less messy.
One tip to changing the filters. The main sump filter comes with a new gasket. It can be difficult to get the old one out without damaging the the seal bore. It is fairly easy to "cock" the new seal in the bore and if this happens the filter will not snap in correctly. Member TransEngineer, who was employed with Chrysler and very well versed with the 68rfe recommended inspecting the old seal and leaving it in place if not damaged. Just an fyi.

My 3rd brake light leaked and soaked the headliner and other places depending on which way it was parked. I sealed it up with this, it's been going on 3 years with no issues.

https://m.autozone.com/sealants-glu...9ifftbhwjhC3PkQsaDAefMte6XRu4BkhoCddEQAvD_BwE

 

[Larry Sciblo]

Thanks to the members here, when I did my first transmission change and replaced the stock pan with the MagHytec. As mentioned, make sure you have a large catch pan to reduce the spillage. I bought a rubber maid type storage container at the local Dollar General store and with a little modification (had to cut about 6 inched off the top) it worked great. Just start removing bolts from the rear of the pan and leave the last ones up front loosened just enough to lower the back end of the pan and let it drain. Be careful, it will not drain all of the fluid out of the stock pan while still held on by the front bolts, but it does get most of it. Good Luck and let us know how it went.

 

[kthaxton]

I have posted it before but every time I mention it I get crap from the peanut gallery.

and apparently, you'll never understand why.....

 

[Cummins2014]

and apparently, you'll never understand why.....

You think , " I get crap from the peanut gallery " With those statements , and he wonders why. The reason for the crap he gets its UNNECESSARY to do a complete change, but that does not seem to matter. The smartest thing he could do if he wants to push his will on someone , just PM the individual its easy, then he doesn't have to listen to the peanut gallery . Then the guy will decide what to do.

 

[Cummins2014]

Ron, went off the rails a bit there didn’t you
Just suggestion maybe take some of that opinions to a PM . In this case it’s been pretty well established the partial fill is all that’s needed . As said you will never understand why you get crap , maybe it’s time you do .

 

[SnoKing]

Ron, went off the rails a bit there didn’t you
Just suggestion maybe take some of that opinions to a PM . In this case it’s been pretty well established the partial fill is all that’s needed . As said you will never understand why you get crap , maybe it’s time you do .

Maybe you should stop doing this:

 

[jacknife]

Ranks right up there with 5000 mile oil changes . A waste of time money and oil !

 

[Cummins2014]

Ranks right up there with 5000 mile oil changes . A waste of time money and oil !

Getting ready to do mine, " partial fill ", and filters . The excepted method for the 68RFE . Filters from Genos ,and a case of 12 Mopar AT4 from Amazon.

 

[ProLean]

To the OP's question about shocks, I have used the Bilstein shocks in the past and found them a bit harsh still. On my 14 2500, I decided to go with the Eibach shocks for this application and they have been fantastic! Very compliant and controlled inter that heavy Cummins even over abrupt speed bumps and such. Towing my TH has been far better since I made the switch. Also, they look great with a black body and red lettering AND a lifetime warranty. I know a lot of members use the 5100 series Bilsteins but there are other options.

 

[DarrylBurks]

Thanks everyone for your responses. I know transmission posts are many, but changing the transmission fluid is very important to me. This is my first post to the forum.

 

[Killer223]

You'll find a lot of people over complicate things here. and some think the bare minimum is all that is needed. In other words everyone has an opinion. it's up to you and your wallet to decide what works best for you.
for my $.02, walmart supertech ATF+4 is and has been fine fluid in my truck for almost 300K. I change it around 60K mark. no need to flush the system, a drain and fill is fine. if you are really worried about it, some say to do that, then drive for a few 100 miles and repeat.
i use the 4600 shocks on all my trucks. great shock.
my rear brake light also leaked, i just tightened the screws 1/4 turn and it stopped.

 

[gtwitch]

Has anyone found a suitable/usable removable pan plug that we can drill a hole and install in the stock pan on our 68 RFE trans at the first oil filter change so draining is less messy?
gtwitch in wyoming

 

[Cummins2014]

Has anyone found a suitable/usable removable pan plug that we can drill a hole and install in the stock pan on our 68 RFE trans at the first oil filter change so draining is less messy?
gtwitch in wyoming

Yes ,Genos has one ,drill a hole ,and install .