Transmission fluid help??

[HSpiering]

Transmission question? wife had oil changed four months ago. I knew the transmission fluid needed tp be change. 100K and it was getting dirty. Had the pan bulled and new filter put in. Now four months latter they said the fluid needed to be changed ASP. This is one of those places that likes to change your oil and then give you a long list of must do. The fluid is not real clean looking and I’m wondering what might be going on. The shop said enough fluid is left in the transmission after pulling the pan to make the new fluid dirty again. I’m wondering if something ells is going wrong to cause the fluid to start to darken down??

 

[JR]

When the trans was serviced was it flushed or did they simply drop the pan and change the filter? If they did the latter then the fluid will look dirty pretty quick. There is only a small portion of trans fluid in the pan several quarts sit in the TC and trans cooler(s) if equipped.

 

[HSpiering]

I looked at the paper work and it said 6qt, pan gasket, filter. The book with the car calls for 10qt capacity. Guess I need to change fluid my self and get it cleaner. Not sure the need to do this ASP.

 

[JR]

They dropped the pan and replaced the filter and topped off. A complete service would involve a flush which would require a competent shop and the proper equipment. Alot of people are against doing flushes because they say it has a tendancy to break the crud loose in the trans and cause problems but if they are done regularly from the start there should be no issues. I never agreed with the concept of only changing out part of the systems capacity, like changing half of your engine oil...

 

[HSpiering]

You would think Amcco would know the best way to go and give good advice. I don't like being charge to dump 6qt after 4 months. What? Same next time?? Anyway I was thinking of doing it myself. Problem is I can't find a drain plug on the transmission pan. There must be one I would think.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Several years ago I calculated how many times it would take to flush the power steering system to over 90% since only a portion is changed by sucking the fluid out of the reservoir. I forget the details, but in your case I would think draining the pan a second time would be helpful if the fluid was moderately bad, and a complete flush would be better if it was very bad (whatever that means). AFAIK, only the Aisin has a drain plug of the various Chrysler automatics.

 

[HSpiering]

Joe
This is beginning to sound like a bunch of sour grapes. Can you use a long line with a pump of some sort to go down the fill pipe so the pan does not require removing?

 

[fest3er]

Loosen the pan bolts; that's the normal way to drain an auto trans. If they used a quality gasket, it'll re-seal.

Once it's drained, put it in neutral, start the engine, let it idle, and see how much more drains. The torque converter (TC) holds the majority of lube. (Dodge/diesel auto trans must be in neutral for the pump to work.

If the fluid is discolored, the trans has other problems. Especially if it smells.

I suspect most stock TCs do not have drain plugs. Running in neutral (or park, however the vehicle is set up) is usually the only way to at least partially drain it, short of pulling the trans and TC.

 

[HSpiering]

Well I found two choices. first go back to Amcco and have them drop the pan and add 6qt for $150. According to Donnelly I would need to do this a few times.$$$$$ I did call the service dept. of one of the dealerships and found out they open the cooling line and flush the transmission with out dropping the pan. All cleaned out for $180. Guess I will do it the right way. Should have done that the first time. The older you get the more you learn.

 

[Austin Diesel]

2008 6.7 Auto LWB, 2WD 86,000 miles

Layed some black bisqueen plastic sheeting on drive under pan area after safetly blocking up chassis, Removed lower drain line bell housing bracket bolt, drivers side, removed fitting from side of trans,
tight fit because of exhaust pipe but it did come out of there, lines are rigid, worked bellhousing clamp a little and it loosened up with penetrating oil ,and fitting came out ,used 1/2" pipe plug with teflon tape to plug on lower input return line on side on housing ,
hooked up 5/8" heater hose to lower fitting tightened hose onto fitting with hose clamp as it kept coming off, started, put in neutral over 5 gal bucket drained fluid briefly shutdown motor,
Loosened pan bolts, hit side of pan with dead blow mallet came loose,Dropped corner of the pan ,Drained into catch basin, found magnet needed cleaning, would add another small magnet to a proper location also,pan needed cleaning,carbon and fluid burned,rinsed pan out for particulates,removed old pan rail silicone with a wire wheel, there is no pan gasket on a 08 2wd,
requires special "Permatex" or Dodge Auto Trans RTV gasket maker, RTV #81180 (Advance Auto) required for +4 Fluids removed and reinstalled new o ring seal for pan filter in cast housing as per directions,tapped in with a socket and extension ,let drain for a while ,replaced 2 trans filters, return cooler filter and felt pan filter,wiped all pan rails with acetone several times and right before filter and pan installation,cleaned pan bolts with wire wheel,rinsed with brake cleaner,
Do not overuse silicone sealer, nice even bead all around pan rail cleaned out bolt holes on pan of excess too much will fill pan rail bolt holes and could caused pulled threads in housing,

installed hand tight evenly ,then torked to 105 inch pounds let RTV set up for hour checked tork :OK curing overnight hopeing for 0 leaks later,

add 5 quarts to pan, start, put in neutral quickly,pump old burnt fluid into bucket, add fluid quickly or shut down and refill pan repeat till fluid clears, remove plug from housing ,replace hose fitting to housing, fill as needed ,restart i bought 19 qts said it holds 17 qts +4 ATF , replace bell housing tubing retainer bracket bolt test drive after running through functions in driveway recheck fluid levels add as needed,

From Genos:

Mopar #83443 pan filter

Mopar #04799662AC return cooling filter

or Pioneer # 745215 or
FK-331 power torque return filter

Permatex # 81180 Auto Trans RTV Gasket Maker/ Advance Auto/ Napa

And i was going to let a shop have all this fun, but its right and flushed and clean again,

without waiting at the dealer $$$$ and getting it half done , these forums are great information sources,



Austin Diesel

 

[rscurtis]

The last time I did my signature truck, I loosened the 10 valve body mounting bolts and let it drain overnight. I get almost 12 quarts of fluid out that way. When you have the pan off, install a drain plug that you can get from Geno's or any auto parts store. It will also provide a convenient place for a temp. sender if you install a gauge in the future.

 

[CGordon]

Check out page 54 of Issue 84. Most helpful...

 

[bigceltic]

Check out page 54 of Issue 84. Most helpful...

You may also think about installing the Dieselsite Transmission filter (external) kit. It makes it easy to due a full flush since you add the filter by connecting it to the rear cooler line and it is mounted to the outside frame rail - makes it easy to disconnect and place in a bucket. The additional filter will also help clean up/keep the fluid clean. The kit was very easy to install - just make sure you *really* tighten the fittings (I know from experience!).