Travel Trailer Towing Plan

[RUSSELL5000]

I have a 2012 2500 crew cab ST w/ 4WD; rear axle is 3. 73 ratio, automatic transmission.



I purchased a 1995 Jayco travel trailer - it is a bunkhouse model. The tag on the travel trailer says 7800 lbs.



(1) I used the towing calculator on the ramtrucks.com and figured:



Two kids, two dogs, one wife, and all kinds of stuff adds 1200 lbs to the truck

All kinds of stuff adds 1200 lb to the travel trailer (now travel trailer at 9000 lbs)

ramtrucks.com says that, loaded as above, I could go as high as 11,500 lb trailer

My thinking is that I am well within capability of truck



(2) The truck is all stock now, and my thinking was only to add:



An aftermarket transmission fluid pan - increases fluid capacity by four quarts. Thinking is more fluid equals lower fluid temp when towing.

A front end steering bracket - looks like a piece of frame rail to stiffen up the front end steering - I understand weakest link of the truck is front suspension

A rear anti-sway bar

Brake controller



(3) I am concerned about the suspension on the trailer. It has two axles, and I need to learn how to determine what capacity they are. But, I think the travel trailer should have:



Two 5200 lb axles (and corresponding springs)

I plan to replace tires with new load range E tires - these ay rated at 2500 lb

I plan to replace brakes



It looks to me like it will be most cost effective to replace the entire axle and suspension assemblies at once - thinking Dexter but open to others if folks know what is quality.



Also - weight distributing hitch.



I think I should be set up to run forever and a day at that point in total safety. Just wonder if those who have had a few more trips around the block than me agree.





P. S. - I never paid attention before, but drove back from Florida a couple of weeks ago. We were just going - not pulling the trailer. Lots of trailer RVs on the interstate. A lot looked bigger than what I have purchased - and being pulled by 1/2 ton pickups - Ford F150 common. Don't really see how safe that is. Even more surprising - how many times I was passed by a rig going 75 mph to 80 mph with only a couple of car lengths between the rig and vehicle in front of them. Am I overly cautious, or do a lot of folks pulling an RV trailer drive like an idiot? I don't see how they would ever stop if the need arose. I also noticed how they cut back into the lane in front of me with little space between the end of their rig and nose of my truck. Seems like not a good idea in a car - seems like a really bad idea towing a trailer. At least, how I see it.



Thanks much.

 

[JR]

Are you talking about replacing the entire axle(s)? Measure your brakes from shoe to shoe (across) Should be 12" if it is a 5200lb or 6000lb axle. Theyre really the same axle, rating depends on the hub from what I have seen. The tube may be thicker as well. Axle tube should be 3" diameter. Unless you have a bent or damaged axle, you should be fine with just changing the brake assembly and either repacking or replacing the wheel bearings. I am not an rver (yet) but do a bit of other hauling and I see the same crap you mentioned, people go flying by with twice the load they should have... .

A new looking Ford went blowing by me a few weeks ago on the freeway. I was hauling a 210 barrel tank, he had a big tandem dual axle goose with a Komatsu hoe on the back, wayyy more than what that 1 ton should have been hauling. They went flyin by me, truck all blinged up and sneering down at me like I was dirt. 2 hours later I passed them, they were pulled over on the shoulder with the hood up and the steam just a rollin :-laf I made sure to give em a little toot of the horn when I went rollin by



When you mentioned the tag says 7800 lbs, thats more than likely the gvw of the trailer (trailer+load combined) unless they do the weight ratings of TT's differently from regular trailers

 

[jelag]

I owned a business and had 4 drivers towing full time for years... I'm guessing at least 2 million miles before we switched to larger trucks... here is what's worked for me... .

I use a place called Etrailer.com for all my trailer parts... if I was going to replace the brakes, I'd expect to find other items bad, magnets, springs etc... often you can buy the backing plate out from Etrailer for less than you can buy some of the parts locally...

I'd think about installing a oil temperature gauge on your transmission... My BIL trailer was always under 10,000 lbs and never had trouble towing... .

I'd personally weigh each axle on the truck and than attach the trailer and weight each axle on the truck and than move on to each axle on the trailer. . when I tow my 5er I try and load it so that each axle on the trailer is within 500lbs of the other... . we changed all the bushing in the trailer springs from plastic to metal, and bolts that had grease fittings... we greased these fittings every time we changed the oil on the trucks...

I use a temperature gauge (point and shoot) to test each tire, hub, brake drum on the trailer and than on the truck to gain knowledge of whats normal and than I start looking for something abnormal... .

I'd not worry about the front suspension on the truck right now... I personally use either brake smart or Max brake controllers... I like the fact that the brake controller looks at the hydraulic pressure of the truck brakes and gives you electric brake control based on that pressure... . and what I really like is the fact that in a real panic and I jam the pedal... the electric brakes clamp on tight... this to me is the most important feature... . any brake controller will give you brakes under 70% of the time... its those times you need to panic stop you want the best... .

I go against the grain and don't use trailer tires... I've had lots of commercial trailers and several RV's and my bet is on light truck tires where I can get a harder sidewall, and raise the pressure based on the load... and usually pick up 500 to 750 lbs of additional capacity over the same trailer tire... . you get a harsher trailer ride, but in my opinion a much safer trailer... .

I hit the points that I've found worked for me... your text is such that most of us could write pages... . hope my thoughts stir the pot some...

 

[Grizzly]

Very good comments Jim.



It's not against the grain to go with LT tires on a trailer. I feel it's a necessity because ST tires are so inferior and are not regulated by the DOT. ST tires are only good for 3 years and then they start falling apart, which can cause damage to the trailer wheel wells.



george

 

[HBarlow]

It sounds like you're reading us the empty weight not GVWR of the trailer. GVWR is the only meaningful weight to use. 5200 lb. axles would not normally be OEM equipment on a GVWR 7800 lb. trailer.

If the wheels are six lug with LRD tires you probably have 5200 lb. axles and about a 9k to 10k GVWR.

LRE 15" tires are no better than LRD 15" and will probably be a Willpop Chicomm brand. Neither one are good tires. Many owners who tow a lot changeover to six lug 16" wheels and LT225/75R16 LRD tires if they fit. They will cost you a little money but will drastically improve tire reliability and service life.

A new Ram towing a trailer that size doesn't require any expensive modifications other than a MaxBrake brake controller if it doesn't have the mediocre OEM brake controller. Trailer weight distributing hitch and trunnion bars may be wanted but they're not absolutely necessary. If the trailer is long you may want a trailer sway control, not a truck sway control. I like Reese dual cam hitch assemblies but there are several choices available.

 

[crispyboy]

Weight: As others have stated be certain of the what weight numbers you are reading on the tag. Is this the dry weight or gross vehicle weight? You want to have a minimum of 10% or max of 15% of the weight on the tongue. Is the suspension leaf spring or torsion axle? What concerns you about the present suspension? Worn bushing in the shackles?

Tires: ST tires last no more than 5 years, often less by people who tow in a lot in the southern states in the high heat. ST tires are only rated to 65 mph. If your just doing local travel then you can get by with the chicomm ST tires. Many people have upgraded their tires 15" tires to Continental Vanco2 or Yokahoma RY215 tires or if they have a heavy trailer upgrade to 16" LT tires.

Hitch: This is more important than you realize, do some research. There are many on the market to choose from and price dictates junk, better and best. Friction bar sway control - least expensive probably works ok with a small popup trailer. Better would be Reese dual cam, Equalizer and others. Best is Propride 3P and Hensley Arrow.
What ever hitch you have take the time to dial in the weight bars. You will probably want lighter weight bars since you have a heavily sprung truck. Dialing the hitch in will yield a better, safer driving experience by having the correct amount of weight on the front end and rear end of the truck (better ride, steering, braking) (I have my hitch dialed such that the front and rear axle are within 150 lbs of each other and the truck rides and handles like a car).

Brake controller: I just went through this exercise. I just tossed out a Prodigy controller. I have limited experience with a factory brake controller in a 2012 and it seemed to work fine. It would be worth it to see what Dodge would charge for the integrated controller. The Max Brake is the ONLY real aftermarket choice because it works extremely well but it is an eyesore.

Towing speed: I'm still a working stiff so there are times I may run 70 mph if traffic is going that fast but mostly about 65 mph on the interstate. The truck seems happy towing at 60-65 mph with stock tires. I think towing over 70 mph seems very dangerous and fuel consumption will quickly be noticed - opinions vary on this one of course.

 

[NIsaacs]

I purchased a 1995 Jayco travel trailer - it is a bunkhouse model. The tag on the travel trailer says 7800 lbs.



(3) I am concerned about the suspension on the trailer. It has two axles, and I need to learn how to determine what capacity they are. But, I think the travel trailer should have:



Two 5200 lb axles (and corresponding springs)

I plan to replace tires with new load range E tires - these ay rated at 2500 lb

I plan to replace brakes



It looks to me like it will be most cost effective to replace the entire axle and suspension assemblies at once - thinking Dexter but open to others if folks know what is quality.



Thanks much.

The tag on the trailer should give GVW and GAWR. What is the GAWR? If the trailer has a GVW of 7800, it might have 3500 lb axles. Are they 5 bolt or 6? What are the tires sizes and ply rating? What is the trailer length? If the GVW is 7800 Lbs, you won't need a W/D hitch.



Nick

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Thanks to all who have replied. I stopped by the travel trailer today and took a bunch of measurements. Due to all the issues which came out of the above, I think I'll conclude this thread and start up a few separate threads (one issue per thread).

I appreciate hearing from all.


Russell

 

[goodguys75]

your truck is just fine to pull now... . that trailer does not weigh that much..... the transmission pan and gauges are good, and maybe airbags in the back... . have fun