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Trouble with Autometer fuel pressure gauge

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Electric fuel pressure gauge - best way to protect sender?

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This past week I installed an Auto Meter electric 0-100 PSI fuel press gauge (4363) and it's not working. Here is what it does. The pointer rests at about 100 PSI when the key is off. When I turn the key on or start the engine the pointer goes clockwise about 3/8". When I first installed it, it would pulse slightly in that position when the engine was running but now it's steady. I have tested fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge and should be getting 22 PSI at idle. I have checked and rechecked all connections for proper hookup and am sure it's right. I mounted the pressure sender in the head of the fuel supply banjo bolt at the injection pump after the filter. I just wanted to know if anyone else has had any trouble like this or any other suggestions you might have before I call up Auto Meter about the problem. My other two gauges are working great (Pyrometer and Boost). Thanks in advance for any help.
Mark


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Red 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 Quad Cab, CTD 12 Valve, Long Bed, 5-speed, 3. 54 gears, Camper/Tow pkg, 33x12. 50x16. 5 BFG A/T's, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Auto Meter piller mounted Pyrometer, Boost, and Fuel pressure gauges, Tuff Country Leveling Kit, Straight Piped, K&N Air Filter, Silencer Ring Hanging in Shop, Yet to be Bombed, 70K+ Miles. My web site: www.mark74.com
 
CP98,

I'm not familiar with that Autometer setup but I always ground the sender and the gauge itself. In an ideal world the sender should be grounded when threaded into the adapter/ banjo eliminating the need to ground the gauge.

Dave
 
I'm waiting for a replacement for my autometer electronic fuel pressure gauge. I wasn't impressed with the quality when I first saw it and it hasn't worked properly yet. It just looked and felt cheap (even though the price was up there). My DiPricols, by the way, are a different story... love 'em.

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98. 5 2500, 24v, 5 speed, QC, 4x4, 4. 10 LSD, short bed, Line-X liner, tow package, camper suspension, Westin nerfs, camper shell, TST PowerMax Competition, 275 RVs, Psychotty air, HX-40, 4" straight pipe exhaust, ProComp A/T 305/70/R16s, EGT/Boost/Fuel pressure pillar gauges, Grover air horns... Love my Cummins, no love for Dodge
 
Mark,

If you don't have some kind of snubber to smooth out the pressure spikes, your sender will croak quickly. I put a 0-30psi VDO sender in the same place that you did. It had a built-in snubber but it didn't last either. I got another one and mounted it remotely with a needle valve (thanks illflem) in front of the sender to isolate it. Don't know how long this one will last but we'll see.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT,Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, ATS 3-piece Exhaust Manifold, Chrome Valve Covers, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, Optima Yellow Tops, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights. As of 5-19-01, 68,522 miles.
 
Thanks radixr, that is probably my problem. I don't know what the gauge did to start with because I didn't hook up the power until the next day so the sender might have died in the little bit I drive it until the next day when I got it hooked up. I posted a new topic to try and see what other guys are doing to solve this problem.

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Red 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 Quad Cab, CTD 12 Valve, Long Bed, 5-speed, 3. 54 gears, Camper/Tow pkg, 33x12. 50x16. 5 BFG A/T's, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Auto Meter piller mounted Pyrometer, Boost, and Fuel pressure gauges, Tuff Country Leveling Kit, Straight Piped, K&N Air Filter, Silencer Ring Hanging in Shop, Yet to be Bombed, 70K+ Miles. My web site: www.mark74.com
 
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