Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck Has A Start And Dieing Problom

[WBodine]

Truck Has A Start And Dieing Problem

I am having problems I drive my truck about 225 miles a day round trip to and from work. Can't afford to have it down for long. Anyways the other day I was on a location about 105 miles from home. Truck ran great to work, after about 10 hours I started my truck to move it ,started and ran fine,proceeded to b. s. some guys it ran at idle for about 30 min. before I moved it out of the way of our big trucks. Got off work 2 hours later. Started up fine ran for about 20-30 seconds then just died, would not restart... FAST FOWARD...

The next day had determined it was my lift pump at fault. Replaced had a hard time bleeding the air out to get it to restart. I had noticed that the lift pump was making a sound like it was loading up and pumping then the sound would get real weak like it had no fuel to pump. Got running ran fine started home made it about 60 miles, and then it died just as if you had turned the key off. Sent my wife to nearest town to get some fuel, I thought mabe fuel suction had a crack in it. While she was gone me and my son were looking at it. I had him turn the truck over so I could feel if the pump was running. ( to noise just off the hwy. ) Well what do you know I found a short in the pig- tail , wiggle the wires and the pump ran accordilingly. The new pump came with a new pig-tail. Got repaired ran great for a few days. . This morning I stoped at a truck stop , went in for 10 minutes came out started it up ran for about 20-30 seconds and just died again popped the hood wiggled the wires had to bleed the injectors again ran home fine . Need to figure out before it leaves us stranded again. . Thanks all replies or comments welcome.....



TRUCK IS A 01 2500 4X4 QUAD-CAB

 

[tunod_68]

Does the check engine light come on? If so have you pulled the codes? Mine would act up just like that and I found that my CPS was dead (2nd one). If that sensor does not work then the lift pump does not run, or will cut off after a while. As a fact it cut off on me 5 feet from the lift when I was going to change it. I jumped the pump power wire to make it run and the truck started right up. Changed the CPS and no problems since. Does your truck stumble? Do you have a fuel pressure guage? If you had a guage you could see if the truck was dropping FP and then cutting off, etc. Could be a bad Lift pump again as well, or possibly air getting into the lines. I assume you are running the stock style lift pump (JUNK!). If so, when you replaced the pump did you also replace the seals for the banjo bolts?



I know, more questions than answers but we need all the info to give good advice.

 

[WBodine]

no check engine light... . cycled the switch got codes #po 1693... . no it does not stumble... . yes i replaced the seals on the banjo bolts... . no fuel presssure guage... . i know that i need one but its hard to find time to install when you work 7 days a week... . also would like to know what a CPS is and where is it located

 

[tunod_68]

This is what the code is:



P1693 (M) DTC Detected in Companion Module A fault has been generated in the companion engine

control module.



P1693 (M) DTC Detected in PCM/ECM or DTC

Detected in ECM

A 9Companion DTC9 was set in both the ECM and PCM.



However, I'd still read them with an ODBII scanner to see if there is a P0336 (I think that's what the CPS one is). The CPS is a Crank Shaft Position Sensor. It does a couple of things but the most obvious is to run the TACH and also run the Lift Pump. It is located right behind the starter. I belive on your 01 it's in the same place. IF NOT then you don't have one, instead you have the Cam Shaft Position Sensor and it's up behind / around the VP44. From what I hear that can be a bear to get to if you have anything other than 5 year old hands.



How many miles are on your truck? Have you had to replace the lift pump before? And have you replaced your VP44 before? Chances are if you have a lot of miles and this is your first lift pump your vp is probably on it's way out the door. That P1693 is also a warning for that as well.



I know what you mean about not having any time! I work a regular job and farm at night. I get really tired of working on my truck with a spot light! You really need to get a fuel pressure guage or at least a warning light. They are both easy to install and shouldn't take you more than an hour tops! 1 hour costs MUCH less than a dead VP44!



Good luck!

 

[WBodine]

Yes, I have replaced my VP44 before Abilene Diesel Injection did the job for me in March of this year. They put a one year unlimited mileage warranty on it. They did excellent work in a timely manner, so I took it back to them to have the codes looked at. I found out that my VP44 was on its way out, they replaced it under warranty for me. Also, my truck has 185,000 miles on it. Thanks for the help.

 

[WBodine]

well I found out it was not my VP 44... . ran fine for a few days got ready to go to work one night ran for about 20 to 30 seconds and died again ... knew what to do this time. Bled the injectors, started up with minimal trouble. I think it may be that Crank Position Sensor. What do you think?

 

[tunod_68]

UM..... If you have to bleed the injectors after someone replaces an injection pump for you then they weren't thorough! It would seem more like you are getting air into the system or the lift pump isn't working and it's drawing some air. I know it's hard for you to find the time to do it but you NEED a fuel pressure guage! You might just be throwing money at it if you just start replacing things.



If you had to bleed the injectors then it started then it's getting air in! The only thing that a CPS would have to do with not running at all is your lift pump wouldn't be running or it would run sporadically. ALSO your TACH would quit from time to time when it wasn't working right.



Start by getting a fuel pressure guage or even dumby light (guage is much better of course). Then when your truck won't start you can at least tell if it's getting proper fuel. It seems you have sporadic problems which you might not catch if you just check the pressure once in a while. You need to monitor it all the time.



NOW if your fuel pressure runs ok for a while then drops off and quits but then later comes back; I'd say it was a CPS. typically they will throw a code, but my first one didn't for about 5K. It just didn't always work, and my tach even worked right up until the end. That's when I knew it was the CPS.



Your truck may not have a Crankshaft Position Sensor, instead it would be a Camshaft Position Sensor. Either way they both could give you an issue.



1. Check for codes

2. Install FP guage

3. Yell at the guys who installed your VP

4. Ask us more questions if necessary

 

[WBodine]

I got to thinking every time my truck has died I reach in and press the clutch with my hand and start it from standing outside the truck, so I am not able to see if the tach. is acting up. This is how I usually start my truck, so I would not think this is a problom, other than the fact I can't see my tach. I have been doing some reading on problems simaler to mine. All I can figure out is it might be the crank sensor or possibly the screen in the tank is pluged. Eather problem could possible make sense. If the crank sensor is acting up and not sending its proper signal, it may be starting and running the filter dry, that would explan having to bleed the injectors when it acts up. Or if it is the screen that it is just having trouble sucking enough fuel. I am leaning towards the crank sensor, because it restarts to easy once I bleed it... ...

 

[WBodine]

Okay guys... still got problems. Have not done anything yet because the truck has been acting right... until tonight. Went for a little drive with the family. Stopped at a restaurant, was there for an hour, came out... truck started fine. It ran for 20-30 seconds, then died. This time it was not so easy to restart. Had my wife turn the ignition over to engage the fuel pump to run, the fuel pump would engage and run but only for a few seconds each time with a hesitation in the middle. After I stepped away from it to think about the problem for one to two minutes, had my wife turn it over a few times as it trying to start it. The fuel pump finally engaged and ran the way it should. Rebled the injectors. Everything okay for now. Need help... MUST get this problem fixed as this is my work truck and I am responsible for getting all my hands to work and back.

 

[isb360]

Been reading the posts and thinking (try as I might... ). Do you think there is any connection between all the injector bleeding you are doing and the actual problem, or are things just coincidental?



One mysterious thing that can be a b*tch to track down is a corroded fuel fitting at the exit of the fuel module at the tank. I know you are in Texas, but... . if those get corroded and or cracked, it will allow air to be introduced into the system and if enough gets in, it stalls the truck. I have heard of several cases where it can be random depending on how it vibrates around. One way to check quickly is get your head up in there or put your fingers on the fittings coming out of the fuel tank module to see if they are wet.



It's a long shot, but something to ponder.



Tim

 

[WBodine]

I have had a very small diesel leak up near the back of the engine for quite some time now it has never acted a fool before. Checked the possible corroded fuel fitting, everything looks and feels dry... . Am about ready to pull my hair out. . Does any one know what turns the pump on ??? I was thinking I was told, or read that it was the crank sensor. With its intermitent fuel pump running not running problem Ifigure it is the switch or sensor that activates the fuel pump

 

[SS]

Your lift pump operates directly from the ECU - no relay or other wiring involved.



Does the wait to start light operate normally? Might be difficult to tell where you are at, but mine was even flashing while trying to start. Also the tach and oil pressure were acting flaky - would stick at 1000 RPM or 60 psi without the engine running. Mine ended up being ECU. It acted up for some time before it finally died and would not restart. Mine did have a couple of codes, but were related to ECU and injection pump communications, not to lift pump, so that may not show up (?).



Could try cleaning ECU, injection pump connnector, lift pump connector with contact cleaner (not brake cleaner) and using a little dielectric grease to reassemble. Also check battery posts and grounds.



If it seems to be operating correctly then it would seem you have an air leak in the lines somewhere.

 

[wtfd6]

it definately sounds like it is getting air in somewhere. when I diagnosed my bad vp a couple years ago I followed a flow chart. it told me to put a clear hose between the lift pump and the fuel line and look for air. if you lift pump is in the stock location it is pulling fuel a long way and could get air in somewhere between it and tank. hope this helps some.


Mark

 

[MBeach]

I have sort of the same problem but no dying, when i start mt truck it is real hesitant it cranks almost stops then cranks then hesitates then starts but hardly then it smokes it grey to white at first then switches to oily blue then stops. just had hrvp installed about 2 months ago and fuel psi just jumped up let me know this is my daily driver

 

[WBodine]

Well I believe I have finally found my problem. . I did some checking after my truck pretty much got beyond going. I took my fuel line off where it quick connects going into the lift pump, clamped a hose on and ran it to a 5 gal. bucket sitting near the front wheel. . It took just a couple of cycles to get it aired out started and ran fine. . Took a air hose and blew back through the fuel line into the tank till I could hear bubbles good and steady. . Then I had my son hold a rag over the fuel neck and blow a small amount of air into the tank to reprime the line and make sure I had good fuel flow, I hooked it up while he was still blowing air and it was flowing fuel. . Oo. Well I believe I have bought myself some time till I can drop my fuel tank and see whats what... . Any more thoughts or ideals still welcome

 

[isb360]

Sounds like you are on to something. I am still suspecting that there is air being introduced into the system somewhere near the top of the fuel tank module.



Be aware that if you drop the tank and remove the fuel module you will need to disconnect the factory connections (can't remember what they are called) but they are a PITA and I found that getting them off intact was near impossible. Good thing I went with a Vulcan Draw Straw... I just clipped the lines.



Let us all know how it turns out.



Tim

 

[WBodine]

I talked to my diesel shop that put the injection pump on my truck. They said that these pluged screens has been a problom for some time now. They also told me that working on the on the screens however possible was a real pain in the butt. Also what is a draw straw, is it a replacement for the pick-up tube in the fuel tank ?????

 

[tunod_68]

Yes it can be a major pain in the butt to get the tank connectors unhooked! But if you are going to go that far you should consider upgrading the draw tube. The stock one is not only small but rather restrictive as well. Something like the Vulcan Draw Straw is the way to go. http://www.vulcanperformance.com There are other places that make ones as well. I can't remember the place, but one member here had one that was different. Instead of removing the stock piece you drilled in a new hole. I wish I had found that out before I did mine. I think it makes for a better package and you don't have to F with the damn stock unit!

 

[isb360]

Installing the Vulcan Draw Straw involves dropping the fuel tank, pulling the OEM module out of the tank, slightly modifying the module and replacing the OEM pick up tube with the aftermarket one you can see on the Vulcan website.



It is an inexpensive and worthwhile investment IMHO in the even that you have to drop the tank for some other reason, especially when your tank is stock.



The Draw Straw features larger tubes and is less restrictive than the factory system. It comes with good instructions and if you have any questions during the install, there are plenty of folks here on the TDR that have installed one and can provide tips and advice as you go.



Tim

 

[WBodine]

Well its quite some time since I was on here. . I finally found my problem.

I followed the advice I was given, and ordered a Vulcan Draw Straw. After it came in a few days later I dropped my fuel tank. Cleaned it out and installed the Draw Straw. I was in the process of installing my tank, back in my truck

when I found my real problem, my fuel tank had through vibration rubbed a

hole in my fuel line. Almost unnoticeable unless you are really looking for a hole. So I replaced the fuel line with rubber 3/8 fuel hose, and ran it inside 3/4 heater hose to protect against vibration. problem solved... . Thanks for all of your help... WBodine:-laf Oo.