Truck set up for slide-In Camper (Tork Lift Install)

[lyengoyan]

I am being given an older (1970s) camper from a friend. It is an 8 foot camper in very good shape. Since I will only be using it 8-10 times a year I like the idea of not spending a load of money on a new one. However, I will be using it while towing my 2 horse trailer so I want to make sure I have a really good setup ( I always worry when hauling a live load). I am aware that I will be a bit over my GVWR but I will at least be under my GCVWR. My truck is a 2001. 5 2500 CTD, Auto LSD, with the camper package. My only mods so far are the addition of gauges (coming soon). I should also mentioned that I have never had a camper before so this is all new to me. My questions on setting up my truck for this combination are:



1) From researching the archives I plan on using the Tork Lift camper tie-downs. Can I install these myself? Anything special I need to know? What else do I need in terms of turnbuckles, springs, etc?



2) Would any additional money be best invested in New Shocks, Air Bags, Weight Distributing Hitch, other? If any of these, what brands or types are recommended?



3) What do I need to know about placing the camper in the bed of my truck. Should it sit up against the front wall? How much clearance should there be between the bed rails and camper? Anything else?



4) Can I set up the wiring myself? Is there an easy place to tie into the truck wiring?



Sorry for so many questions, but I really appreciate the advice from all you experienced folks out there. An other advice is gladly accepted.



Thanks a million.

 

[DPelletier]

Sorry, I can't help with all your questions but here goes:

- I don't use the tork lifts, so I can't comment on the install. I use rigid frame mounts up front c/w spring loaded turnbuckles and on the rear I mount to extensions I slide in to the sides of the reciever hitch.

- I'm sort of doing the same thing as you. I have a 9 1/2' fiberglass slide-in (2200 lbs) and will be pulling a 16' cargo trailer (approx. 5000 lbs). I suggest the use of a weight distributing hitch, I have a DSP model that I used on my travel trailer previously (6500lbs). Another good idea is to use some form of rubber matt to give the camper some friction between it and the truck bed. I just purchased a set of Rancho RS9000x shocks for the truck and have yet to try them with the camper, but the truck is WAY stiffer now. I, like you have the overloads and I have decided not to go with air bags yet. I may have to use them if the tongue weight of the trailer sinks the rear of the truck too much. Will have to wait and see. With just the slide in, the overloads aren't touching yet.

- Yes the camper should just touch the front of the box.

- You can tie into the factory wiring running to the rear receptacle under the cab on the drivers side near the bed (If you have the trailer towing package).

- If you didn't get the factory reciever, make sure you get a good class IV receiver. I have used Reese in the past with good results.

 

[Gunny]

Some thoughts are in order for what you are going to be doing. I believe that the weight dist hitch is a must in your case. The air bags also would be money very well spent, and I do mean well spent. Your truck being a 2500 IS going to set down in the back even with the hitch, the air bags will return you to correct ride height. This way the truck will be much more staple and will almost feel the same as it does now. The Tork lifts are without a doubt the best commercially made camper mounts, they tie your camper to the frame and not to the bed of your truck, the are very solid and a wise investment. Installing the Tork Lifts is also something you CAN do yourself. The mounts come with all of the tools you will need to fish the mounting bolts into the existing holds in the frame of your truck. This is a real chore on the drivers side because of the fuel tank, but with the bolt fisher that comes with the mounts it is not too difficult to do. The passenger side is a real no brainer and takes about a min and a half to bolt up. Order the turnbuckles with the springs from Tork Lift this is a real good setup. The wireing is also a easy thing and you should be able to tackle this with no problem.



Good Luck, Gunny

 

[BillZ]

Tork Lift and Camper Setup

Here's my 2-cents worth. I used to have a camper and played around alot with the setup and found this to work the best for me.



1. Tork Lift camper tie-downs with springs loaded turnbuckles work really good - especially with an older camper - you won't be tearing out the camper tie-down mounts. I live close to Tork Lift so it was easier for me to have them install them. Whichever you choose they are very nice folks to deal with - busy but nice.



2. Since you have the camper package I'm assuming you have the over-load springs. I suspect you are going to need the air-bags but you might try loading the camper on and see. I think with the camper package you also got the anti-sway bar - if not I might suggest you think about that - it really helps.



3. The Rancho 9000 shocks work great - when I had the camper loaded I set them up to 5 - then set them back to 1 for unloaded driving.



4. And the rubber mat gives a person a feeling that the camper won't move around - but I suspect it's not going anywhere even without the mat - especially with the Tork Lift tie-downs. But the mat save scratching the heck out of the bed.



5. We looked at some older campers before we bought and I wanted to share that we found some older campers would not fit in the Dodge bed! I know it sounds weird but some campers have side storage boxes that just would not clear the tailgate - just something else to worry about



Good luck - I'm sure you'll be fine - when someone does all the research you've done I'm sure you will do great.



Bill

 

[Bill Stockard]

Yes, I installed my TorkLifts myself. The passenger side is a piece of cake. The drivers side takes more time and patience... the fuel tank is in the way. The Torklift brackets use the existing holes in the truck frame. You will have to drill a hole in the bed floor reinforcement for a brace on the bracket. Torklift sends a "fishing tool" in the kit to get the frame bolts up behind the fuel tank. Be very careful not to get any lines or wiring caught under the head of the bolts.



On the rear, I removed the factory weight distributing hitch and used my drill press to drill the holes for the rear brackets... much easier than lying on your back trying to drill the holes. I don't tow anything behind my truck/camper combination.



Since you are thinking about towing a trailer behind your truck/camper, get the Torklift hitch and hitch extension... . more $$$, but a very strong setup and you don't have to drill any holes in the hitch plates.



If your camper is very big, figure on the air bags, and no matter what size it is get the Rancho 9000s. Also figure on getting a cheap rubber bed mat which is will keep the camper from moving around.



I've used my Torklift system for nearly 3 years with big heavy slide-ins and no problems.



Bill

 

[wcjp]

Torqlift has two different tiedown types for the rear. One setup works with the stock hitch and requires drilling. The other setup bolts directly to the Super Hitch.

 

[Gunny]

The torqLifts on my dually rears required no drilling and work in conjunction with the rear stock hitch. Torqlift has a clamp type of arrangement that is very sturdy. The tubes that slide inside of the reciever hitch do not move with this arrangement. My Big Foot 10. 6 camper loaded weighs around 3100 lbs and this set-up works very well.



Gunny

 

[KSyme]

Using Air Bags

If you plan on installing an air bag kit, have a cross member fabricated to go between the frame rails where the upper bag brackets mount. This will keep the frame rails from twisting together. Had to repair some heavily loaded 3/4 tons that have hit pot holes that had alot of pressure in the bags.