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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck started knocking?!?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fan speed switch ??

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Dana 80 Rearend Bearings

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Alphacowboy said:
The oil pan can be dropped, but you have to loosen the engine mount bolts and jacke up the passanger side of the engine IIRC.





I had it up as far as I could get it, but still could not get the oil pan out. I looked up through the side, but couldn't see much, just that number 6 was all the way down, so I'll need to rotate the engine. I'm assuming I can rotate it just like you'd rotate a gasser (big socket on the nut that holds the balancer on at the end of the crank shaft).



Thanks again for all the help... I hope to know what's wrong by tomorrow night.
 
JL penner said:
I had it up as far as I could get it, but still could not get the oil pan out. I looked up through the side, but couldn't see much, just that number 6 was all the way down, so I'll need to rotate the engine. I'm assuming I can rotate it just like you'd rotate a gasser (big socket on the nut that holds the balancer on at the end of the crank shaft).



Thanks again for all the help... I hope to know what's wrong by tomorrow night.





sorry, I was told this was a way to take it out, maybe it was by jacking uo the other side, sorry.



You can turn the engine over just buy putting a socket and breaker bar on the altenator pull nut. Turns over quite easily actually.
 
I think you have to reach in and undo the oil pickup to get the pan off in frame. Once you've got it off, replacing rod and main bearings is pretty easy and relatively cheap. Use a mirror to look on top of the crank and check the cooling nozzles. If any of them are missing or plugged, a scored cylinder is likely.



My 01 has a knock (see thread https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158071), but I'm still driving it. When they pulled the pan and rotated the crank, they couldn't see high enough in the cylinder to see any scoring. I'd have to pull the head to be certain. The knock on mine goes away if I crack the #5 injector, and it lessens considerably once the truck warms up. The mechanics and service manager at the local Cummins shop told me to drive it 'til it drops because I'd probably be sleeving it anyways. Evan Beck (see thread above) says if it's only slightly scored, it can be honed in frame. I think if I were going to go to that extent, I'd pull it and go for a complete rebuild or a new drop in.



Aside from the knock, it runs great.



And it's for sale... :rolleyes:
 
DMannon said:
I think you have to reach in and undo the oil pickup to get the pan off in frame. Once you've got it off, replacing rod and main bearings is pretty easy and relatively cheap. Use a mirror to look on top of the crank and check the cooling nozzles. If any of them are missing or plugged, a scored cylinder is likely.



My 01 has a knock (see thread https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158071), but I'm still driving it. When they pulled the pan and rotated the crank, they couldn't see high enough in the cylinder to see any scoring. I'd have to pull the head to be certain. The knock on mine goes away if I crack the #5 injector, and it lessens considerably once the truck warms up. The mechanics and service manager at the local Cummins shop told me to drive it 'til it drops because I'd probably be sleeving it anyways. Evan Beck (see thread above) says if it's only slightly scored, it can be honed in frame. I think if I were going to go to that extent, I'd pull it and go for a complete rebuild or a new drop in.



Aside from the knock, it runs great.



And it's for sale... :rolleyes:



yeah. . that's what I'm hoping for and why I don't want to drive it. If it's not a bad score, I'm hoping to be able to hone in frame. I need it to last at least another year, then I'll be in a position to pull the motor and do a proper rebuild. I've thought about either selling the truck or trading it in, but one, I'm way too attached to this truck. Two, I wouldn't want to pass this kind of problem onto somebody else.
 
repositioned the truck tonight to an easier place to work on it. Going to put the front on jack stands and try to pull the pan tomorrow night... . Beer got in the way of working on it tonight.





On a side note, I've been able to play around with old blue a little more... . That truck is a lot of fun, and way faster than my black truck.
 
I need to pull the head, I can't see much from up underneath, the only thing I can do is feel around the #6 piston (doesn't feel smooth, should it?) I probably won't get it off til Wednesday. I'll keep you guys posted on it
 
I believe there's supposed to be some crosshatching from the honing of the cylinder wall, not totally smooth. I forget where I saw it, but there is a definite crosshatching pattern that is supposed to be left after it's been properly honed.
 
Cylinder #6 is scored. :{ :{ :{ :{ :{ :{ :{ :{ :{





Doesn't look good either. I finally had another chance to look at it tonight. Time to get on the phone with my buddy... .



I won't know if it'll have to be sleaved til he takes it apart. I am freaking bummed right now...



I'll keep you guys up to date on what's going on. I tried to get pictures from up underneath, but I couldn't get any clean shots. I'll see if he wants me to start tearing it down.



Thanks for all the help guys
 
yeah... except at the bottom though. . I haven't seen the top yet. Waiting for a call back from my buddy to see if he wants me to start tearing it down
 
IC Smoke said:
Ah alpha, That can be honed out :-laf



Ian





I sold that engine to a friend, he had it all rebuilt. They ended up sleeveing #6 as the grooves were too deep. He is in the process of swaping it into his 00 3/4 gasser. That was a scored #6 on a 12v I bought from a friend. I was going to rebuild it and use it for a project, but decided against it. Amazingly the head was fine, he had it checked and it was still perfect.
 
Gonna be hauling the truck up next friday. Need to clean it out, cuz it looks like it's going to be a few months before he can get it done.



I'm gonna miss it something terrible :{ :{ :{
 
Diagnosis:



#6 cylinder scored

Rod bearings slightly worn

#6 Injector faulty (leaking?)



Everything else looks brand new







He's got the block out at a machine shop getting the number 6 cylinder sleaved.



Gonna get my CTD back soon! Oo.
 
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Rather than having the stock injectors fixed/cleaned and calibrated for $200. He's getting me a set of brand new Bosch 275 injectors for about $420. I figure if I'm having to shell out all this money for a rebuild, I may as well get a faster truck back.



Oh yeah. . and the block resleave on #6 plus honing all cylinders plus turning my pressure plate = less than $400





It's so nice to have good friends in the diesel industry!! Oo.





Edit: had a price wrong
 
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