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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Truck Stopped Running

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On my way home last night after turning into my driveway the truck suddenly stopped running . Now it will not start . If I bump the starter I am getting 0 psi on the fuel pressure gauge although I can still hear the lift pump run . I hooked up an external pressure gauge at the injection pump and it confirms the 0 psi I am reading inside the cab . The fuel gauge is reading about an 1/8 full .

I just replaced the lift pump a month or 2 ago so that may or not be the problem but , I did not think the truck would just stop running if the lift pump suddenly quit . At any rate there are no codes showing . After reading some stuff on here about fuel gauge sending units and there problems is it possible that I just ran out of fuel . I bought another lift pump as a backup and will put that one on but , first I think I am going to put 5 gals of fuel in the tank and see if I get any pressure on the gauge . What do you all think ?



Also if I did run out of fuel what is the best / easiest way to get the truck restarted ?



Thanks in advance for any insight ...
 
Sounds to me like you ran out of fuel. Fill the tank with 10 gallons of diesel fuel. If you can get good fuel pressure, proceed as follows.



Purge the air from the fuel system up to the VP-44 and up to the injectors.



I do this by loosening the top on the fuel filter housing. (while you are doing this, may as well remove the top and replace the filter as it may have sucked in trash from the bottom of the tank) Replace the top and thread on about 3/4 of the way, leaving enough room for fuel to pass the threads.



Bump the starter and watch for fuel running around the fuel filter housing top. When you get good fuel turn off the key. (you should lay some rags over the starter to catch any fuel run off).



Next, remove the VP-44 schrader valve cap and hold in the shrader valve while an assistant bumps the starter. When you get good fuel, turn of the ignition key.



Then break torque on injector couplings 1,2, & 3 or which ever injectors are the most easy for you to get at and loosen them a few threads but not all the way. Just enough to let fuel pass through the threads.



Crank the engine until you get a GOOD fuel spray from each of the loosened injector couplings. Tighten the injector coupling but not too tight..... snug or about 1/3 wrench ark. You don't want to over tighten them. Better to undertighten and then good back to snug up any potential leaks.



Now you can crank the engine. It may require several start attempts to get the engine to fire up. IF and once it does, it will NOT be happy about running on 3 cyclinders so keep the rpms up to about 1,500 to 1,800 rpm until the engine is running steady and smooth. Then you can let it idle.



Go back and check & address any leaks.



Good luck with it.
 
Be sure to post your results and how things work out. This very problem has bitten more than a few of us in the butt over the years.
 
When my fuel sender went out it did the same thing. It read 1/4 full and died. When I was able to put 34 gallons into the tank I knew what had happened.



The other thing you might want to check is the main 50A engine fuse in the PDC under the hood. When I bought my 01 the owner told me that it had died once suddenly and would not restart as you have described and he finally found that the fuse had burned out. He never did figure out what caused it but it left the truck dead.
 
Sounds to me like you ran out of fuel. Fill the tank with 10 gallons of diesel fuel. If you can get good fuel pressure, proceed as follows.

Purge the air from the fuel system up to the VP-44 and up to the injectors.

I do this by...

I've found that usually isn't necessary on the 24 valve trucks. I've replaced my VP44 twice (one failure my fault, the next was the crappy replacement I put in the first time around) and never had to do that. Even with a completely dry injection pump and injection lines, all I've ever had to do was bump the starter once to cycle the lift pump, and cranked it up. After cranking 5-10 seconds, it lit off on a few cylinders, and after about 20 seconds of idling (no point in winding it up when it's running rough) it was hitting on at six.

Might be worth giving that a try before you start loosening all the fittings under the hood.
 
I do this by loosening the top on the fuel filter housing. (while you are doing this, may as well remove the top and replace the filter as it may have sucked in trash from the bottom of the tank)



I see this posted every now and then, usually associated with refilling the tank while a tanker is refilling the fuel station holding tanks. In that case, as with the vehicle, the fuel is always drawn from the bottom of the tank. Why would the filter be full of trash just because the truck ran out of fuel?
 
Truck is running once again ...

Put in 10 gallons and followed Chief USA's method and it worked fine .

Now the sending unit will need to be dealt with at some point .

Thanks to all who responded !
 
I see this posted every now and then, usually associated with refilling the tank while a tanker is refilling the fuel station holding tanks. In that case, as with the vehicle, the fuel is always drawn from the bottom of the tank. Why would the filter be full of trash just because the truck ran out of fuel?



The first time I dropped my tank, I was appauled at the amount of trash and plastic shavings in the bottom. A good friend who frequents this forum has been a HUGE help and taught me a LOT of knowledge from his experience and helping me with issues I have encountered.



My theory at least is that once the fuel level drops to a very limited and small amount, these contaminants are now concentrated in a MUCH smaller area in close proximity if not directly under the draw straw fuel pickup opening and much more likely to ingest the contaminants.
 
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My theory at least is that once the fuel level drops to a very limited and small amount, these contaminants are now concentrated in a MUCH smaller area in close proximity if not directly under the draw straw fuel pickup opening and much more likely to ingest the contaminants.



Unless you did away with it there is a screen around the draw straw. I've never had a fuel filter get clogged and I run my tank down till the light comes on (less than 5 gallons remaining on mine) at least once a month, so I don't agree with your theory. Looks good on paper though.
 
Unless you did away with it there is a screen around the draw straw. I've never had a fuel filter get clogged and I run my tank down till the light comes on (less than 5 gallons remaining on mine) at least once a month, so I don't agree with your theory. Looks good on paper though.



We're talking about apples and you oranges. You have a 12 valve truck that uses a totally different fuel lift pump. The sock filters on the fuel pickup are not impervious to tearing. In other non-stock installs the filter may be modified or removed. The Carter style electric pumps are mediocre at best and do a poor to move fuel in the best of circumstances when in the OEM location. They do even worse when the tank is nearing empty.
 
We're talking about apples and you oranges. You have a 12 valve truck that uses a totally different fuel lift pump. The sock filters on the fuel pickup are not impervious to tearing. In other non-stock installs the filter may be modified or removed. The Carter style electric pumps are mediocre at best and do a poor to move fuel in the best of circumstances when in the OEM location. They do even worse when the tank is nearing empty.



Not sure what my lift pump has to do with this discussion. I have the same tank and the same filter as the '98 and '99 24 valves. Same system means apples to apples to me. Ever tried to tear that screening material?
 
Not sure what my lift pump has to do with this discussion. I have the same tank and the same filter as the '98 and '99 24 valves. Same system means apples to apples to me. Ever tried to tear that screening material?



I think the right thing to do would be to start your own thread. This is off topic.
 
Off topic? You advised the OP to change his fuel filter. I believe that it is unnecessary, be it 12 valve or 24 valve, just because he ran out of fuel. Pardon me for injecting a little logic into an an old wives tale.
 
Off topic? You advised the OP to change his fuel filter. I believe that it is unnecessary, be it 12 valve or 24 valve, just because he ran out of fuel. Pardon me for injecting a little logic into an an old wives tale.



Apparently Cummins/Fleetguard strongly believe in this "old wives tale" and are illogical too... ... so much so that they designed a WIF detector into the filter housing. Water, slime, and other non-soluable contaminants CAN and DO get past the sock/fabric screen in tank filter, especially when the fuel level is extremely low. Not always the case but a smart thing to inspect and check for when it only takes a few minutes and minimal amount of effort.
 
:confused:So Cummins/Fleetguard recommend changing filters if you run out of fuel? I'm from Missouri, show me.



NO. That is what YOU said. Please don't go getting all Racheal Maddow on me now. :-laf Perhaps you "may" want to go and refresh your understanding and interpretation of the word "may". The use and prudent application of "common sense" is implied when employing the term "may" as is when replacing a fuel filter in various instances. :rolleyes:



Have an tastey and enjoyable Thanksgiving dinner and time spent with family and friends.
 
I said "You advised the OP to change his fuel filter. I believe that it is unnecessary, be it 12 valve or 24 valve, just because he ran out of fuel. Pardon me for injecting a little logic into an an old wives tale. "



Then you said "Apparently Cummins/Fleetguard strongly believe in this "old wives tale" and are illogical too"



So, now you are saying it was my idea to change the filter un-necessarily? Are you a politician?:-laf
 
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