Turbo compressor housing temperature, How Hot?

[Diesel Freak]

I am in the process of designing a silencer ring eliminator, and I would like to know how hot the turbo compressor housing gets. This is because I need to lower the cost of materials since five inch round bar in any material is expensive. Would a phenolic resin work? What about Nylon, or UHMW plastic?

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http://www.mudrunner.sites.cc

 

[B.G. Smith]

I would think that the highest temp the housing would see would be after shutdown from heat soak from the turbine, probably below 250deg. F as you have the rubber/synthetic air inlet hose clamped to the inlet nozzle. bg

 

[C Schomer]

I think plastic will be fine! I have a scrap of 4" round UHMW for my next one. 4" is the right OD unless you're planning on a bigger inlet hose. Craig

 

[Diesel Freak]

UHMW has a melting point of 266F and a maximum working temperature of 200F I do not know if this gives a wide enough safety margin. I am going to use a Fluke hooked to a TC to monitor housing temp while the engine is loaded.

 

[Steve Campbell]

I think B. G. is right. The intake air is going to keep the thing cool until shutdown.

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1999 Qcab 4x4 Driftwood
Steve

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Brian, some testing has shown potential for improved spoolup with a BOMBed TSR:

"Turbo Silencer Ring?" 2nd Gen Forum

Scan down and start reading at C Schomer's post.

Vaughn

 

[C Schomer]

I,ve always been able to hold my hand on the compressor housing on mine! I think about 130 degrees would be the limit for that. Craig

 

[Gonzo 1066]

The compressor housing can run quite warm. In theory ambient air temp is all you would see when the engine is running (BUT) as your turbo compressor compresses air the air gets hotter, hense the intercooler. to cool the charge air. On a stock truck you may not have a problem, on a BOMBED one ??? I have melted plastic wire looming on the intake manifold at 40 psi on my pulling tractor. I havnt checked temps on the housing but that is where the heat is generated. I would hate to suck plastic into the expensive turbo and cause it to fail and then have my expensive 5. 9 eat impeller parts. Better to be on the safe side.

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1995 2500 5 spd US Gear 2 speed,PackBrake, bombed,big turbo, injectors CUMMINS POWER!!. 2001 ETH 3500 PackBrake, gagues,otherwise stock. 1972 "1066" International Harvester 414 ci diesel pulling tractor, big pump,turbo and injectors. Alcohol injection,BINDER POWER!! .
GONZO

 

[Diesel Freak]

Well, in theory using the ideal gas law with 100F ambient air, the air at the turbo outlet would be 300F plus 20% from friction and we are looking at 360F with 30 psi boost. I just need to find out how much of that heat gets to the inlet flange. Molten plastic in the compressor blades would be a bad thing!

[This message has been edited by cdaledh (edited 02-02-2001). ]

 

[ynot]

Pretty sound theory, and the numbers are real close. Compressor air temp at the top (smallest end of the loop) of the housing can reach almost 400* at 40psi. The outside of the housing there can reach 360*/ 380* (as does the outlet air temp at elbow), depending on ambient and air moving under the hood. The bottom of the compressor sees about 325*, and the inlet just past the cut for the inlet boot never sees more than 250* or so on the outside. Never checked the inside flat faces of the inlet housings, but the compressor wheel can get well over 400*, and hang there for a good while under load, which isn't very far away... T

 

[NVR FNSH]

Just curious - why are you making a replacement for the silencer ring? I don't see the purpose.

Brian

 

[C Schomer]

I think a good place for my next thermocouple would be under the end of the inlet hose. I won't be seeing max temp until I get my RV out again! Craig

 

[Steve Campbell]

cdaledh, how goes the battle here? Have you found a material you are comfortable with and if so, do you have a show off date for your new "baby. "

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1999 Qcab 4x4 Driftwood
Lets move election day to April 16th Steve

 

[Diesel Freak]

well, it looks like the shop will have it done by the end of the week. I think my final material will be aluminum.

 

[ynot]

Stopped by my turbo builders a couple weeks ago when this first came up and asked them about the benefits of an inlet snorkle. They said on trucks and tractors running under 50psi boost, there was no difference at all. 50 to 80psi showed a . 4psi boost gain and just over 1 1/2hp on a six inch aluminum velocity stack, but not until they put six directional fins manufactured into the snorkle that went from 2* to 10* on a gradual curve and "bent" the air in the direction the wheel spins. They scrapped the idea after the last set of dyno runs. Still be interested if it increased spool up, tho. That's something they didn't test... T

 

[jwgary]

I think plastic would cause problems not only from posible melting, but also softening and warping. With all that air flowing through there you need something that is strong enough to keep it from collapsing. As your velocity increases, the inside pressure decreases. That's what draws gasoline through the venturii on a carb. Evenutally, I think you would cause the ring to warp and get sucked into the turbo. Aluminum sounds like the ideal material. I don't really know how costs differ, but couldn't you start with heavy tubing instead of solid bar stock? That might not be cheaper though. This whole thing sounds very exciting.

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B I G O R A N G E AMBER-FIRE (BURNT ORANGE) / BRITE SILVER 2001(. 5), 2500, SLT, Q-CAB 4x4, SWB, AUTO, 3. 55, LSD, TOWING PACKAGE
ADD-ON'S: LINE-X, 1/4" STEEL LONGHORN HITCH COVER, WESTIN NERF BARS, YELLOW-TOP OPTIMAS

 

[jaybo]

At 35psi boost hour after hour it will get
hot enough to turn the clear varnish brown.
I don't know what kind of varnish they use
but it must be over 300F.

 

[Mark@TST Products]

We do not measure the housing temperature but routinely measure the air temperature as it leaves the compressor housing. It is typical to see 450 F+ at 35 psig on the HX35. On a long hard pull the housing temperature likely gets pretty close to the air temp, no wonder the clear coat turns dark on the 24 valvers.

 

[Diesel Freak]

JWGARY
I think this brings up anothr possible benefit of the reducing cone. As Velocity increaces preasure decreases. A carburetor has a venturi that raises air velocity, and the resultant change in preasure SUCKS fuel through the metering jets from the bowl. With this in mind a reducing cone in front of the turbo would be an ideal place to admit propane to the system.

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[David Oxland]

Seems to me that your numbers are probably quite close. On large marine engine drawing in ambient air of 80F and charging to only (1 Bar-15psi,) we see 200-220F as the norm, so going to (2 Bar-30psi) is probably going to get you a fair bit higher.