Turbo Plugged On 6.7 -- Looks Like Another 2262

[neelre]

Sent my truck to the dealership this last Saturday night after the check engine light came on (little yellow engine light -- not sure if this is CEL or MIL light). Anyhow, CEL (this is what I'll call it) light came on at the start of a 30 mile trip, but I had to take the trip to get back home.



The truck seemed to run fine on the trip back, and no DPF plugging showed up on overhead display. Showed as system status OK.



Dealer said truck showed a plugged turbo, and they did the turbo and EGR cleaning procedure, as well as installed the cleaning port into the turbo. Did a forced regen and all the stuff they say to do in the TSB's including the reflash and all that crap Going to pick up truck tommorrow.



My questions are these:



1. If the turbo gets plugged again, what does Dodge say to do? Do they require that it be replaced as well as the entire EGR system? If they replace the turbo, do they just replace it with the same thing that was in the truck, or do they put in a modified or different turbo less prone to plugging?



2. The truck only has 4300 miles on it. It is a 2007. 5 6. 7. I do not drive the truck hard, and only use it to pull a small landscape trailer loaded with an ATV. Would I do better to drive the truck like I stole it? Maybe do a big bunch of hard accelerating uphills and "pedal to the metal" type driving? Should I go to the local dragstrip and do a few dually burn-outs and then take her down the quarter mile a few times? I don't pull too much as far as weight is concerned, so if I work it, it is going to be without a trailer.



Would really like to hear form some of the techs that post on here that work for Dodge. I use this truck mostly for grocery getting, but I really like the feel of the power that the diesel provides. I could not ever go back to a gas truck for this reason.



Thanks for listening to me, and hope to hear from somebody soon.





neelre

 

[sag2]

I understand they are working on turbo design, but not sure what they are doing. I would assume the newer turbos are probably slightly different than the older ones. So to answer your question you will get a similar turbo, but it will already have the cleaning port drilled and tapped. The dealer should do a complete cleaning at the same time, but a manual regen is not required if all your having is the 2262.

Dealer should clean once and then replace if it sticks again.

 

[HBarlow]

... ... ... ... ... . My questions are these:



1. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .....



2. The truck only has 4300 miles on it. It is a 2007. 5 6. 7. I do not drive the truck hard, and only use it to pull a small landscape trailer loaded with an ATV. Would I do better to drive the truck like I stole it? Maybe do a big bunch of hard accelerating uphills and "pedal to the metal" type driving? Should I go to the local dragstrip and do a few dually burn-outs and then take her down the quarter mile a few times? I don't pull too much as far as weight is concerned, so if I work it, it is going to be without a trailer.



Would really like to hear form some of the techs that post on here that work for Dodge. I use this truck mostly for grocery getting, but I really like the feel of the power that the diesel provides. I could not ever go back to a gas truck for this reason... ... ... ... ... ... ..... neelre

I wonder about the same question you asked. The standard advice we often hear from knowledgeable people, even those with connections to Cummins, Inc. , is the "drive it like you stole it phrase" you restated in your question above.



But is that really true now with the 6. 7 engine with all the federally mandated emissions? Heavy throttle means more fuel is burned and more smoke (soot) is produced. The additional soot produced by full throttle acceleration is recycled through the egr and has to be trapped by the dpf. Excess soot accumulation in some trucks is causing turbo binding and the need for turbo cleaning or replacement. I don't pretend to know the cause.



So is hard acceleration a good thing, or bad? I don't know. I think a truck used for "grocery getting" ie short trips with light loads may be more likely to be effected by soot build up but I wonder if loaded highway trips would prevent or reduce soot problems better than hard driving as the old advice recommends?



My truck is different because it is a cab and chassis so I realize it may not be a good example. My truck has almost 27,000 miles on the odometer and has been trouble free so far. It is driven with light to moderate throttle and acceleration (I'm an old guy) except when I'm pulling a trailer and then I use more throttle but not for hard acceleration, only for accelerating the load to highway speed or climbing hills or mountains. The truck has been used extensively for highway travel and more than 50%, possibly 75% of the miles have been wth a heavy trailer. My driving style is probably similar to the way other cab and chassis trucks are being driven because the C&C trucks are generally bought for work. Cab and chassis trucks don't seem to be as likely to produce soot build up but I don't know if that is due to lower power ratings, less restrictive emissions equipment, driving application, or a combination of the three.



I don't have any answers to your or my questions. I'm just expressing my questions and thoughts for discussion. My guess is only time will provide the answers.

 

[Garry Verheyden]

I wonder about the same question you asked. The standard advice we often hear from knowledgeable people, even those with connections to Cummins, Inc. , is the "drive it like you stole it phrase" you restated in your question above.



But is that really true now with the 6. 7 engine with all the federally mandated emissions? Heavy throttle means more fuel is burned and more smoke (soot) is produced. The additional soot produced by full throttle acceleration is recycled through the egr and has to be trapped by the dpf. Excess soot accumulation in some trucks is causing turbo binding and the need for turbo cleaning or replacement. I don't pretend to know the cause.



So is hard acceleration a good thing, or bad? I don't know. I think a truck used for "grocery getting" ie short trips with light loads may be more likely to be effected by soot build up but I wonder if loaded highway trips would prevent or reduce soot problems better than hard driving as the old advice recommends?



My truck is different because it is a cab and chassis so I realize it may not be a good example. My truck has almost 27,000 miles on the odometer and has been trouble free so far. It is driven with light to moderate throttle and acceleration (I'm an old guy) except when I'm pulling a trailer and then I use more throttle but not for hard acceleration, only for accelerating the load to highway speed or climbing hills or mountains. The truck has been used extensively for highway travel and more than 50%, possibly 75% of the miles have been wth a heavy trailer. My driving style is probably similar to the way other cab and chassis trucks are being driven because the C&C trucks are generally bought for work. Cab and chassis trucks don't seem to be as likely to produce soot build up but I don't know if that is due to lower power ratings, less restrictive emissions equipment, driving application, or a combination of the three.



I don't have any answers to your or my questions. I'm just expressing my questions and thoughts for discussion. My guess is only time will provide the answers.

You're right that driving it hard will cause more soot. But it will also raise the exhaust temps. to where the soot is hotter/dryer and will not stick to the turbo as bad. I had the code come up a few times in the first 8,000 miles on mine. Never took it to the dealer once though!

I then deleted the egr and dpf's. I also ALWAYS use the exhaust brake. The first thing I do is turn the brake on when the truck is started (it helps warm the engine up quicker)

During the last 11,000 miles, the code has NEVER showed its ugly face anymore

 

[HBarlow]

Does exhaust braking reduce soot?



I don't know if exhaust braking helps reduce or eliminate soot or just reduces build-up in the turbo slide mechanism by exercising the turbo internals from full boost to braking mode.



Maybe one of our trained Cummins techs will answer?



Most chassis cab trucks probably operate 100% of the time with exhaust braking enabled. The switch logic for the exhaust braking feature is different on chassis cabs. Once the switch is pressed to "on" it remains on through engine shut down cycles. Exhaust braking does not have to be reinitiated on every start-up like it does in pickup versions of the 6. 7 engine.

 

[Bob4x4]

Driving more aggressively will keep the turbo scrapper sliding back and forth on a much more regular basis as will running the e brake. Most the trucks that are driven harder and towed with will have less turbo issues from what I have seen so far.

 

[AABEN]

Driving more aggressively will keep the turbo scrapper sliding back and forth on a much more regular basis as will running the e brake. Most the trucks that are driven harder and towed with will have less turbo issues from what I have seen so far.

Bob is wright you need to drive it like you are mad at it. That is what this eng needs.

 

[neelre]

Got the truck back today, and it was the dreaded P2262 code. They gave me the CD/DVD packet that Dodge sent in the mail about 6 months ago (I already had this) and also a diesel supplement for year 2008 trucks. I have a 2007 year truck, but I guess they are pretty much the same.



I do not understand why they did the forced regen on my DPF, as many of the didge techs on this forum said it was not necessary with the 2262 code.



And, they ran almost 1/4 tank of diesel out of my truck!!!! I assume they needed to drive during the forced regen, but could they not have filled me back up to what I had when I took it in!!!!!



So, do you guys think this will fix the problem? Should I start driving the truck hard and keep e-brake on all the time?



If it should happen again, should I insist on turbo replacement? Is this what dodge is saying in their TSB's?



Hope to hear from more folks soon.



neelre

 

[Bob4x4]

Dodge will pay for fuel when a forced regen is done. It is called out in the tsb

 

[RVTRKN]

Driving more aggressively will keep the turbo scrapper sliding back and forth on a much more regular basis as will running the e brake. Most the trucks that are driven harder and towed with will have less turbo issues from what I have seen so far.

That is correct but also because of the variable vane turbo is always moving with the exhaust brake engaged or you are at highway speeds which will have a higher EGT than city driving. D/C needs to have a mandatory 1 or 2 hour class if you want to purchase a 6. 7 truck, and not allow delivery of it until customer meets this requirement. I know it sounds absurd but just think of the prevented failures until D/C can figure out what they need to change on the turbo. Seems to me all they need to do is add more clearance with the ring to the housing or add a ridge to the ring to clean the wall when moving.

 

[sag2]

That is correct but also because of the variable vane turbo is always moving with the exhaust brake engaged or you are at highway speeds which will have a higher EGT than city driving. D/C needs to have a mandatory 1 or 2 hour class if you want to purchase a 6. 7 truck, and not allow delivery of it until customer meets this requirement. I know it sounds absurd but just think of the prevented failures until D/C can figure out what they need to change on the turbo. Seems to me all they need to do is add more clearance with the ring to the housing or add a ridge to the ring to clean the wall when moving.

Sounds easy, but most of the time these things are not that simple. I'm sure by increasing clearance it has some negative effect on something else.

 

[neelre]

Dodge will pay for fuel when a forced regen is done. It is called out in the tsb

Yes, I know they should pay for the fuel for the regen, but still my gas gauge tells me otherwise!!!!! I am lower than when I took it in by about 1/4 tank. Maybe it is just my imagination, but I could swear I am lower now.

 

[AllianceDiesel]

DON'T IDLE YOUR TRUCK, plain and simple, drive it like a gas vehicle, when you idle you build soot, trust me I have seen this since 03 and have been telling everybody but nobody believed me, now that the 6. 7's are out people are actually listening, and drive it like you stole it every once in a while.



You will see a twin turbo just like ford, they had the same problems.

 

[neelre]

Sounds easy, but most of the time these things are not that simple. I'm sure by increasing clearance it has some negative effect on something else.

Sag2,



I know you work on these trucks everyday. What do you think I should do? I do not pull much with the truck, so do you think I should start driving it like I stole it?



How about if the P2262 code pops up again? Should I insist on turbo replacement? Is this in keeping with the recommendations from Dodge?



Why do you think they did a forced regen on the DPF if the TSB for the P2262 did not call for it? My overhead showed no signs of plugged DPF.



Hope to hear from you soon.



neelre

 

[neelre]

Hey guys:



We all know Dodge warns against excessive idling. What do they consider to be excessive?



Sometimes I let my truck warm up for 10-15 minutes in winter to get the cab warm, but I normally never let it idle any other time.



I never let it run for hours or anything, so what do they term excessive idling?



neelre

 

[AllianceDiesel]

because if your turbo is plugged most likely your dpf is gonna be plugged, might as well kill two birds with one stone, its called customer service, some dealerships actually like to have a good name and not be like everybody else, thats the way I was.



Anything over 20% is excessive, yes we can look it up on the scanner to see how long its been idled. when its cold out, thats the worst time to idle, if you have an auto get the high idle feature activated

 

[Garry Verheyden]

Sag2,



I know you work on these trucks everyday. What do you think I should do? I do not pull much with the truck, so do you think I should start driving it like I stole it?



How about if the P2262 code pops up again? Should I insist on turbo replacement? Is this in keeping with the recommendations from Dodge?



Why do you think they did a forced regen on the DPF if the TSB for the P2262 did not call for it? My overhead showed no signs of plugged DPF.



Hope to hear from you soon.



neelre

Get rid of the DPF and EGR. Problem solved The last 11,000 miles have proved it to me!

 

[HBarlow]

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... . so what do they term excessive idling?neelre

"Excessive idling" is identified by the dealer tech when he doesn't know why a truck sets codes or he can't correct the problems an owner is complaining of and wants him to go away.



I don't know why "excessive idling" would ever occur. Our trucks have a factory high idle feature available.



I never allow my truck to idle at minimum rpm for more than a minute but often allow it to run for five or ten minutes with high idle activated. I may eventually learn this is a mistake but so far I've seen no negative consequences.



It makes more sense to me to allow fast idle rather than a hot shutdown or several shut downs and restarts when I'm connecting or disconnecting a trailer.



Can a trained Cummins tech point out why this practice is a mistake?

 

[RVTRKN]

sag2, that was going to be my next question as well, was the high idle feature. You did state that you had to have an auto trans, however my truck is the G56 and was able to activate the high idle feature. I idle my truck a lot at 1200 RPM due to the heat here in So. Cal. , when I'm writing service orders and also if I have a quick stop. Mine is the C&C if that makes a difference.

 

[AllianceDiesel]

I am a trained cummins/dodge tech, and excessive idle is when you idle it at min. rpms, high idle is just fine and thats why its on there. When its in high idle it doesn't count towards the idle percentage, because its under a slight load.



And don't tell me thats what we look for when we can't find anything, thats the first think I would look for with a hard start or injector knock and sure as **** 99% of the time its injectors carboned up. I have seen probably 75 injectors and 3 engines ruined by excessive idle times.