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Turbo Plugged On 6.7 -- Looks Like Another 2262

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I am a trained cummins/dodge tech, and excessive idle is when you idle it at min. rpms, high idle is just fine and thats why its on there. When its in high idle it doesn't count towards the idle percentage, because its under a slight load.



And don't tell me thats what we look for when we can't find anything, thats the first think I would look for with a hard start or injector knock and sure as **** 99% of the time its injectors carboned up. I have seen probably 75 injectors and 3 engines ruined by excessive idle times.



Don't take it so hard :-laf everybody on the internet wants to bag on dealer techs. Just remember where they bring their trucks when nobody else can figure it out;) or after they screwed it up



Bob
 
Hey guys:



We all know Dodge warns against excessive idling. What do they consider to be excessive?



Sometimes I let my truck warm up for 10-15 minutes in winter to get the cab warm, but I normally never let it idle any other time.



I never let it run for hours or anything, so what do they term excessive idling?



neelre

10-15 minutes is WAY too long. You would be much better off putting a timer on for your block heater. Have it power up a couple hrs before your planned departure time and the truck will put out some heat right off the bat.



Bob
 
Sag2,



I know you work on these trucks everyday. What do you think I should do? I do not pull much with the truck, so do you think I should start driving it like I stole it?



How about if the P2262 code pops up again? Should I insist on turbo replacement? Is this in keeping with the recommendations from Dodge?



Why do you think they did a forced regen on the DPF if the TSB for the P2262 did not call for it? My overhead showed no signs of plugged DPF.



Hope to hear from you soon.



neelre



You can drive it hard and it will like it better than easy, but it is up to you. If the 2262 comes back they should replace the turbo. It isn't written anywhere but if they call STAR they will also suggest the replacement.

If you are not having DPF plugging problems there is no reason to perform a forced regen. The training guys are trying to get that point across now. With the latest flashes the DPF plugging problems are almost gone. The latest calibration has what they call net zero idle. If the PCM see's extended idle (about 30 minutes) it will start something similar to a stationary regen. It will try and keep the soot load from increasing, and if you idle it long enough it will enter a soot reducing mode. This is not a replacement for a regular regen, it just keeps the DPF from plugging completely if the customer ignores the suggested minimal idle routine. If you high idle keep it at 1400 RPM or less and the soot load will be less.
 
I don't understand how keeping the truck idling for 10-15 minutes is too long. Yikes, during ice storms, I run my gasoline car for 1/2 hour to melt the ice off the windows and reach a point where the doors thaw enough to even get into the damned car!!!!!



I only idle it for about 10-15 minutes once a day when I do idle.



Do you guys think that if use the high idle feature with the exhaust brake on it would help.



For the last few days I have been driving the truck like I stole it, doingheavy accelerations uphill and some fast accelerations on the straightaways, and so far the P2262 has not come back yet.
 
I don't understand how keeping the truck idling for 10-15 minutes is too long. Yikes, during ice storms, I run my gasoline car for 1/2 hour to melt the ice off the windows and reach a point where the doors thaw enough to even get into the damned car!!!!!



I only idle it for about 10-15 minutes once a day when I do idle.



Do you guys think that if use the high idle feature with the exhaust brake on it would help.



For the last few days I have been driving the truck like I stole it, doingheavy accelerations uphill and some fast accelerations on the straightaways, and so far the P2262 has not come back yet.



A couple of things to keep in mind. First this is not a gas engine, nor is it anything like a 5. 9 because of the EGR and DPF system. Second, this engine uses EGR almost all the time at idle, so you are sending soot through the intake side of the engine any time your idling. So while no one can make you not idle it, if you want to minimize your chance for trouble you need to keep these things in mind.

This is not necessarily a bad thing, it's just different. So yes idling a reasonable amount of time is OK, and high idle is better than curb idle. Also if you have the ability to pull codes and the P2262 does return, if you don't have any other symptoms like low power or poor brake performance you might be wise to keep driving it and see if the code returns quickly or it takes some time. There is a good chance that you might be fine for many miles to come without another turbo problem.
 
Your car is gas I thank. There is a big different in Eng. This Eng likes to be used hard,It likes hard driving and worked hard. Plug it in on a timer to have it warm when you need it. Elt is cheeper than fuel
 
Idling

I have been told by my D. C. mechanic that idling is not just when the truck sits and idles for 10 - 15 minutes. Idling is also when you are moving and do not have you foot on the accelerator, as in when you are coasting or have used you foot to apply the brake. Idling time really mounts up fast if you do stop and go driving. Any thoughts on this?
 
I'm sorry guys this reminds me of the

1973+ rigs that had the smog pumps on ... ... they really don't know how to fix this - but have to have something to sell. . IMO
 
work on these motors day in and day out and you will see what ideling does trust me, it drives me nuts seeing people idle common rails (or any diesel at that)



yes idle counts anytime there isn't a load on the engine



here are two engines of the many that I have done from excess idle time, the first two pictures were from a 05 if I remember right and 3-5 are from my buddies truck that he bought, both trucks had major blow by and we put a motor in my buddies right away since he found a motor for cheap.



#ad




#ad




notice the scoring in cylinder #5



#ad




CARBON, from exhaust clyinder #5



#ad




the one on the right is from cylinder #5, the exhaust valves got real hot



#ad
 
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I'm new to diesel having just picked up a 2008 Cummins 6. 7. Tomorrow a temp controlled turbo cool down timer is going in. After reading all this I'm wondering if I should kill my turbo with hot shutdown or kill it with carbon from cold shutdown. Is a few minutes of idle time to cool down the turbo considered excessive idle? What is a good shut off temp for a post turbo EGT probe?
 
TURBOCHARGER “COOL DOWN” CHART

Driving Condition Load Turbocharger Temperature Idle Time (in minutes) Before Shut Down

Stop AND Go Empty Cool Less than 1

Stop AND Go Medium Warm 1

Highway Speeds Medium Warm 2

City Traffic Max. GCWR Warm 3

Highway Speeds Max. GCWR Warm 4

Uphill Grade Max. GCWR Hot 5
 
I've had many CTD's and never killed an engine from shutting it down too soon. I do use a little common sense though. Around town I just shut it off. If I've just pulled a big hill or something I may give it a couple of minutes. If I've just pulled a long grade with a heavy trailer I may give it five minutes.



I'm pretty sure the recirculated exhaust gas (EGR) is what's causing most of the turbo problems. In my opinion,the key to prevention is to keep EGT's up. You do that by pulling loads.



I don't think the new 6. 7 engine is a good choice for a general run around truck. They need to get nice and hot to cook off all the garbage that the emissions systems produces.
 
I'm new to diesel having just picked up a 2008 Cummins 6. 7. Tomorrow a temp controlled turbo cool down timer is going in. After reading all this I'm wondering if I should kill my turbo with hot shutdown or kill it with carbon from cold shutdown. Is a few minutes of idle time to cool down the turbo considered excessive idle? What is a good shut off temp for a post turbo EGT probe?
Have your high idle feature activated and use that to cool down the turbo if worried. It should be cheaper than the cool down timer, and better for your engine.
 
do you have an automatic common rail? if you don't you don't have high idle and you don't have to worry about high idle times, if you have a common rail it might need activated by the dealer, you just turn the cruise on, hit set, it will kick up to like 1100 rpms, and you can hit acc to increase it to like 1500
 
So would you say it's better yet with the exhaust brake on also?

The logic that the ECM uses to activate (close) the exhaust brake seems to vary with factors but I don't think the exhaust brake can be closed when the truck is parked, shifter in Park position, and fast idle activated.

The exhaust brake seems to be closed or partially closed at idle, in Park, when the engine is not yet up to operating temperature but once the engine is up to temperature I don't think the exhaust brake can be closed when stopped in Park.

I preferred the old two speed axle switch on the shifter of my '01 Dodge that allowed me, not the ECM, to decide when the exhaust brake was closed.
 
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