Twins

[Jeff_K]

Jim, I understand that there is a lot of work involved in fabing up a set of twins from scratch. I have toyed with the idea after reading about the guys that have done it. None of them say its easy, but most say there is a lot of money to be saved if you have fabrication skills.



I just find it awful hard to believe that with a $3000 price tag and less than $1000 in total parts that even the first set of twins made is not profitable.

 

[lmills]

there is a lot of money to be saved, but it can definitely be a pita and you had better have the ability to let the truck set while you do the install. One piece missing on a weekend can keep you from getting the project back together. After seeing what goes in to doing a set of twins from start to finish, I can defintely tell you that the people putting packages together have to be very thorough with their collection of pieces and to make sure that the install will go as smoothly as possible without the end user having to make a lot of mods to the truck itself to get them to work. I used to think it did't look that hard, and I still don't consider it to be that bad, but it is a lot of work to get it "right. "

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Jim, I understand that there is a lot of work involved in fabing up a set of twins from scratch. I have toyed with the idea after reading about the guys that have done it. None of them say its easy, but most say there is a lot of money to be saved if you have fabrication skills.



I just find it awful hard to believe that with a $3000 price tag and less than $1000 in total parts that even the first set of twins made is not profitable.

Here's one for you, my first set of Twins I built with a stock turbo 35/16, used an external wastegate, bought one of Piers's modified 3B's, all the piping pieces, filter ect and when I was finished I had 2K in it... ... stock turbo(it was free) Now that's not counting a $1500 tig, $400 mig, $250 torch, $150 chop saw, grinders, wheels, blades, then there is labor... ... what is my labor worth.



Now lets talk about the times I pulled the setup in an out making it fit, all the testing and tuning ect... ... ... no one really makes money on them, it's the combo of everything together that might keep there doors open.



Jim

 

[RonA]

I've already spent about 40 hours just playing with the flange designs, and I still don't have a bottom flange I like. I guess my first set of home builts are not going to be cheaper than the set I bought. I sort of figured that would be the case.

 

[robertyoke]

It just doesn't make sense to me to pay $3000+ for a kit that has ONE $500 turbo. Piping and oil lines don't cost $2500. Just my $0. 02





jeff k,

have you started your twin project yet? how is it going? it's the fun things that go wrong that would put you out of business if you were in it for profit, like I lost the manifold to turbo spacer gasket 500 miles from home and had to jam safety wire in the gap to get drive pressure to get home.



after I fixed that I hit exhaust brake getting off the freeway and "boom" popped the stamped cover off the side of the b1-03. (you may want to weld that. )



I think you could make money after the first set is perfected but unless your time is free the first set wont make you any money.



-robert

 

[Jeff_K]

Robert,

I haven't started anything yet. Still trying to decide what I want to do. I will definitely weld that stamped cover next time I pull the B1 out Thanks for the heads up! Did you see if it was possible to make the wastegate any bigger?

 

[Morse]

Since we've hit on pricing a little, what does everyone feel is a "fair" price to pay to have a twins kit made?? I already have the turbos, and need everything else. . I'm sure there are many variables, though I'd just like to know what others feel after going through or seeing others do the twins thing. .

 

[robertyoke]

Robert,

I haven't started anything yet. Still trying to decide what I want to do. I will definitely weld that stamped cover next time I pull the B1 out Thanks for the heads up! Did you see if it was possible to make the wastegate any bigger?

if you pull that cover you can get to the wastegate, but I dont think I would waste the time because the hole is quite large and not much smaller than the flaper. You may be able to find a bigger flaper but it will hit the cover so I dont know if it will help, for that much trouble I would go with the external gate.

I have added 2 adjustable blowoff valves to save the head gask. but they have not popped yet, and they are set at 62 and 65 psi. most of the time I tow high altitude and I see only 50~55 psi max for a very short time then 40 psi is what the "hills" call for around here :-laf towing only 23~24k tcw.

sea level may make more boost and then the blowoff valve may be used... . or i'll stud the head, may even o-ring.

I have added a tst boost elbow to open the gate at 27~28 psi vs. 21~22psi and the truck is much smoother when building boost.

-robert

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

Your kit seems to be similar to Poole's kit (cheaper) for people who already have a B-1. What's the difference?

My 3rd gen kits use a stock turbo, external wastegate and a B2 from Turbo Auto Diesel (the makers of the B1).

 

[PGoble]

Blake,



I would highly recommend Piers' twin kit. I was running a Diesel Dynamics Stage 3 kit (which ran great and produced around 450 rwhp) but I blew up two Jammers when I installed the TST CR. With Piers' twins, I can run 6x5 on the TST. That was good for 612 rwhp and 1153 tq. Boost maxes at 50 psi here at 4500 ft elevation.



As for turbo lag, yes there is some lag from a dead stop, similar to running a HX40 single. Not that bad, maybe 1-2 seconds. I am extremely happy with the twins and have not had a single problem with them since they were installed last year.



Just my . 02



Peter