U-Joint Replacement (#351 or #230-0188 pics included)

[dclassens]

ARE ALL THESE U-JOINT PART #'S FOR 3RD GEN OR WILL THEY WORL IN 98-02? THANKS

Dave

 

[05mxdiesel]

Just yesterday I had to do the same unfortunate fate as well. Ordered 351s from Rockauto and had no problems whatsoever installing them. After reading all these threads and trying to be prepared to get them to fit I figured I would lose my patience. The new joints slid right into place using a vise, tkaing out the old ones are another story. Now I need to order and be prepared for the front driveshaft and axle joints. Truck has 52k on it. Also these were the 351A's

 

[EErmert]

Tell us about the brakes ? Plz...

Eric '03 qc slt swb srw 6sp limited 4x4 305/555

 

[steved]

ARE ALL THESE U-JOINT PART #'S FOR 3RD GEN OR WILL THEY WORL IN 98-02? THANKS

Dave

3rd gen...



2nd gens use readily obtainable and more common Spicer-style joints.



steved

 

[rbattelle]

Got the shaft reinstalled and took it for a drive. No detectable noise or vibration, at least up to 65 MPH. So far so good!

I forgot to mention the condition of the old joints. The one at the transfer case was perfectly fine. Had plenty of factory grease left in it (although I think one or two of the seals were leaking, so it might not have been long).

The one at the axle end had 1 spindle completely dry filled with powdered bearings. The spindle immediately opposite hadn't quite made powder yet, but it was close. The other 2 spindles were absolutely perfect - plenty of grease and operating normally.

I spent probably 15 hours total on this job, from driveshaft removal to reinstall. But I'm a bit obsessive about cleanliness and "doing things right". Spent a lot of time with various files cleaning things up.

Ryan

 

[Cattletrkr]

I have about 102K on the joints my dealer installed for me a couple years ago. They were under warranty so they're greaseless factory issue "junk". Still have the 351's sitting in the toolbox as spares... hope they're not getting too rusty...

 

[BMH95]

So if I'm reading this right, the 351A's will work without grinding?

 

[JHardwick]

I'm no expert, but I've probably replaced 20 or more U joints of various sizes. Maybe somebody who really knows this stuff will say I'm all wrong, but what I do when they feel tight is to open my vise and lay the shaft down so that the yoke and 2 caps are laying on the top of the jaws. Then take a hammer and rap on the yoke next to the cap thats pointed straight up. I flip it over and do the same on the other side, then turn 90* and do those too.



If it's too tight to get both retainer rings in, put the cap with the ring on facing up. Hit it a couple solid hits next to it, then flip it over and bump the other cap in until you can get the ring in.

If I remember correctly, all I did was beat the joint all the way to one side to allow room for the opposing retainer. Once both retainers were in, I just hit it back and forth to "center" the joint. It was a little tight, but the "thrust" bearing is plastic ... ... ... . a little forgiveness there.

 

[rbattelle]

So if I'm reading this right, the 351A's will work without grinding?

Yes and no. The crosses on the 351A are short enough to fit into the yoke without grinding. But I had to file the snap rings thinner and/or grind the ends of the caps down a little in order to get them to fit. Even with that, they barely fit.



I've put about 20 miles on them now, and maybe it's psychological but I swear the truck has never been this quiet. I think the u-joints may have been bad for the last 50 or 60 thousand miles! My shifts are smoother than I can ever remember them being, and the truck is so quiet on the highway I think you could almost have a conversation at a whisper.



It's gotta be psychological.



Ryan

 

[JHardwick]

It's gotta be psychological.



Ryan

Maybe not, a bad u-joint can set up all kinds of harmonics and resonations.

 

[steved]

Maybe not, a bad u-joint can set up all kinds of harmonics and resonations.

And all it takes is a single pin either being too tight ot slightly loose.



I had a very minor vibration in my 99 when I owned it... I finally replaced both rear driveshaft joints... both were in excellant shpe, plenty of grease, no obvious signs of what might cause a vibration. We got a little deeper and mic'd the crosses... turned out one single pin was about 0. 010" smaller than the others, which caused a loose fit. And it was an OE Spicer joint with over 80k on it.



I get paranoid everytime my truck makes a new noise... I got one right now that I can't figure out...



steved

 

[05mxdiesel]

[/QUOTE]I've put about 20 miles on them now, and maybe it's psychological but I swear the truck has never been this quiet. I think the u-joints may have been bad for the last 50 or 60 thousand miles! My shifts are smoother than I can ever remember them being, and the truck is so quiet on the highway I think you could almost have a conversation at a whisper.



It's gotta be psychological.



Ryan[/QUOTE]



I noticed I have to let the clutch out a little slower since it feels like it grabs a lot quicker now, but in reality I have no play in the in the driveshaft.