U-Joints --- Greaseable or Solid?

[Doc Tinker]

What type of universal joints are better, greaseable or solid?

Doc

 

[Pete Peterson]

Both are good Doc, you just have to index the greasable ones..... Pete

 

[Sled Puller]

From a truck puller:
"You'll twist the greaseable ones right off!"
Steve and I are not taking any chances, we went with the sealed ones from Dodge again. They seem to hold pretty well.

What are you building Doc? You have a bunch of questions out lately.
Gene

------------------
1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 Bombed & Amsoiled. Amsoil Premiere Direct Jobber, Member of: NRA Business Alliance, GLTDR, WANTED: Wrecked Dodges.
www.awdist.com

 

[Paul Herioux]

Doc,
Why not have the best of both worlds?
About six months ago someone posted about a set of Spicer joints that have grease fittings in all four caps and aren't drilled. I believe the part number was given in the post. I have since seen one set of these in the shop, customer was just passing through town and I didn't get a chance to ask where he got them. Looked like a really slick setup though.

------------------
89 w250, 47rh trans, cleaned up exhaust, Dynomax bullet muffer, 3" lift

 

[Sled Puller]

There is no pressure on the cap out there, right?
maybe you could drill the ones you have?
Very even grease distribution in all four that way.

 

[Big-D]

Doc,

I'm not an expert on anything, but I have changed a few U-joints in my day, both greaseable and sealed types. Much like brakes, universal joints wear out regradless of being greased on a regular basis or of the sealed type. It is a fact that U-joints will need replacing, but I've also learned to work with them to extend their working life.

There are several factors that I have found add to the life of a universal joint. Depending on how a person drives (just like using your brakes) and what kind of loads you are placing on the joint, relate to a large degree on how long the joint will last. The needles in U-joints wear in a certain area and pattern. Lets say for this example that 50% of the driving done with your truck is empty and the other 50% is done loaded. There is a difference between loaded and hard pulling in my opinion. Loaded means you put a heavy camper in the bed or load the truck with tools, sand, or whatever. The point being - when you change the angle of the normal wear patten for the joint by pushing the body of the truck down, the driveline takes on a new angle and excessive wear in the joint begins immediately. Sealed joint or not.

Hard pulls on the other hand don't always cause excessive wear just so long as the driveline angle is maintained in its normal wear pattern range. That is why heavy duty trucks get so many miles out of their joints. The angle is seldom changed and most drivers are very easy on gear changes.

So, would I purchase a grease type or sealed joint? If I greased the joint often to ensure grease was getting to each end cap, I'd probably go with the greaseable joint. If I didn't have time to crawl under and grease them all the time, I'd go with sealed.

You can't go wrong with buying Spicer for workmanship and longevity. Again, this is only my opinion, but I'll pay a little extra for peace of mind that I am purchasing a quality product.

Hope this helps some.
Dave

 

[Archive]

IMHO, if you're going RACING, stick with solids. If you're not, then use the greaseable. I've never seen a class 8 with sealed non-servicable u-joints... . Here's the real question: What costs Daimler more to install in our trucks, drilled, tapped and greaseable -or- solids? Why do we HATE to see sealed tie rod ends and ball joints and then feel GOOD about the same cost cutting situation with a u-joint? I don't get it. When these sealed "lifetime" factory u-joints are shot, I'll replace them with a u-joint that can be lubricated. I'll index them as per Pete, and I'll buy Spicer as per Dave, and I'll keep 'em "wet". #ad

 

[Great White]

I always buy the Spicer part. I have never seen one twisted apart. The ones with the blue seals used to carry a "lifetime" warrentee... bet they bought someone's parts there!
Once I attempted to drill a Spicer to install a zerk fitting... Started with HS bit, Went to a Cobalt, then TiO... . Solid Carbide..... THEN I WENT BACK... . to the parts house and bought a set with zerks. And purchased bits to replace the dull ones!

------------------
2001. 5 2500 ETH/DEE 4x4,Patriot Blue over Silver,Camper pkg, Trailerpkg,3. 54LSD, Agate Leather,Stainless Smitty Bars,Tow hooks,Amsoil... ... ... #ad
Except snowplow!

[This message has been edited by Great White (edited 03-31-2001). ]

 

[TKemper]

Hey Topfuel,

Just to let you know, they're starting to use lubed for life ujoints in class 8 trucks. The company I drive for has a 2000 Pete 379 with the Cat 600, 18sp trans, and non greaseable ujoints. They say the joint is waranteed for the life of the truck. We'll see. Todd

------------------
97 2500HD 4x4 ST 12v, K&N, 16cm turbine housing, recalibrated pump, Geno's man trans filter, McLeod dual disc clutch, LSD with 3. 54's and Amsoil, AGR power steering box and pump, Borgeson steering shaft, Skyjacker 2" leveling kit, Rancho RS9000's, dual RS5000 steering stabilizers, AR Outlaw II wheels with 33x12. 5 Bridgestone Desert Duellers, Lund visor, Ventvisor window shades, Glasstite HiRise cap, aluminum tailgate protector, illuminated bumper guide poles, Cobra CB, Wilson 5000 antenna, Alpine CD, Infinity spkrs, Fosgate amp with 8" Bazooka tubes, Hayes elec brake controller and Husky floor liners. 16. 247 @ 87. 52mph quarter mile at 6700lbs

 

[Archive]

TERMINATOR, thanks for the update. I'm not very optimistic, but I hope they will hold up. We keep our team sleepers WELL past one million miles... In the words of Forrest Gump, "One less thing. " #ad


------------------
1999 White Quad Cab SLT Dually Auto 4:10 Posi. NOT BOMBED... ... ... ... (very much) 31,000 miles