2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission U-Joints

[DEZLPWR]

What is the best source for OEM U-joints? The OEM part # I am showing is 5014733AA, and the cheapest I have seen them for is $61 each... Has anyone seen OEM's for cheaper than this? This seems high to me! I am probably going to go with OEM because from the archive searches I have done here, it seems as though the OEM's are the "stoutest"... .

 

[jnelson]

O'Reillys Auto Parts - $16. 00



They've worked fine for me.

 

[Oasis-3]

Auto Zone

Brute Force part # 2-0054BF

Fit my truck - no greese fittings



Cliff

 

[Cooker]

Does anybody have any suggestions as to which are the strongest available?

 

[Opz01]

DEZLPWR,



I found that Drivelines N. W. had the best price on ujoints in our area. The phone number in FiFe is 866-4-U-Joint. The new spicer series they carry are exact matches to the stock ones sold from your local overpriced Dodge parts place.



Now haveing said that, what happened? You did all that research for twins and you settled for an HX40?





Opie

 

[DEZLPWR]

Thanks Opie! I will check them out.



Not enough $$$ for twins for my truck... . :{ :{

Reason: I have a REAL set of 11 mo old baby girls! Oo.



Some day... ... .....

 

[KFroese]

i found a spicer dealer by me today and picked up 3 sets of u joints and the carrier bearing for 106. 01

 

[apkole]

Hey Cooker,





Check with Dennis at D&R Driveline out on Chicago Dr. around the corner from you. Those guys have done right by me for the drive shafts and U joints in our plow trucks. They get into the high perf. equipment some also.



Andy

 

[Cooker]

Thanks Andy. I never even gave them a thought. Funny thing is they are only about 1 mile from my house.



On a different topic, do you know of any good shops that work on differentials while still in the truck? My Dana 70 needs a little help.

 

[illflem]

Even though greaseable u-joints are weaker due to the hollow grease channels how often have you seen a u-joint cross grenade in normal driving? They most always die due to lack of lube and bearing failure. Get greaseable ones.

 

[Opz01]

Originally posted by illflem

Even though greaseable u-joints are weaker due to the hollow grease channels how often have you seen a u-joint cross grenade in normal driving? They most always die due to lack of lube and bearing failure. Get greaseable ones.

Not to disagree but last year I went through two each time the cause was power braking and it was always the aft drive shaft upper ujoint. I replaced them with the same greaseable ones as they were free as I kept the reciept. This year I am experimenting with the spicers I mentioned earlier in this thread. With one change, I drilled a . 040 hole between the slinger cups and pressed in a grease zerk fitting. If you try this you will need to use carbide drill bits, a drill press (around 250rpm) , tap oil, and some patients.

Of the two that went bad one growled and the other wasn't noticable till about 70mph. The ones I am useing now have been though much more abuse this year and no problems. IMO the stock spicer ones are the strongest ones for the money. The front driveshaft ujoints are still holding strong and are the stock ones.



Opie

 

[KFroese]

pulling my hair out on this one... ... i was getting a vibration in my truck around 65mph, but it would go away at 75mph. so i changed the 3 u joints and carrier bearing. while i was under it i changed the rear diff fluid to mobil synthetic with 8oz of additive from dodge. now i get a hum between 55-60mph. i can't tell if its in the drive shaft or the rear. it sounds like i got mud tires on the truck.



so i just dropped it off at the spicer dealer by me. i'll post their findings once they check it out.

 

[Bigramguy]

I used to always recommend greaseable u-joints as corrosion and lack of lubrication always seemed to be the cause of most u-joint failure.



I have found over time that the greaseable joints DO NOT work as well as non-greaseable ones. Especially a Spicer OEM unit.



The greaseable joints don't seal as well,and water and salt gets in,and the corrosion starts. I see it when we grease them,you can see the grease pushing the water out. Everytime youi grease them you expand and stretch the seals,and more water gets in. Most people also forget to lube them,which also shortens the life.



Non-greasable units have a much better seal,which tends to keep out water,and keep the grease in.



Look at most newer trucks. The original joints tend to last for many years. We replace them with greaseable ones,and they only last half as long.



I run a plowing biz in the winter,so we replace a lot of u-joints,or we used to. Since the switch to non-greaseable joints,we haven't replaced many at all.

 

[Opz01]

Originally posted by KFroese

pulling my hair out on this one... ... i was getting a vibration in my truck around 65mph, but it would go away at 75mph. so i changed the 3 u joints and carrier bearing. while i was under it i changed the rear diff fluid to mobil synthetic with 8oz of additive from dodge. now i get a hum between 55-60mph. i can't tell if its in the drive shaft or the rear. it sounds like i got mud tires on the truck.



so i just dropped it off at the spicer dealer by me. i'll post their findings once they check it out.

KFroese,

My advise to you would be to have the driveline balanced or get a rogain account. lol



Opie

 

[Rman]

greaseable ujoints stink. I agree with bigramguy, they leak allow water and when you "grease" them you do more harm than good by allowing more space for water and other corrosion inside. I just replace stock ujoints every 2 years or when then break.



I replace ujoints on my 4x4 landcruiser every rock crawling season and carry 4 spares with me Needless to say changing u joints has become like changing my kids diaper, its just habit now.

 

[apkole]

Cooker re. in truck dif. repairs

I have had Wayland Chrysler do some work on my '91, I think.



Two things signal the onset of old age - - short term memory loss and, uh, mmm, ..... I can't recall the second.



I just haven't run across a good aftermarket drive train shop for the difs. that I would consider. However, that being said, I have had really good success with Sherds Transmission up on Alpine Ave. . , about one block north of Leonard. Talk to Doug. He's real low key, but has a good head on his shoulders, and seems to be able to handle just about any thing drive train related.



If they can't help you, they have the integrity to say so.



Also might want to talk to D&R to see if they have any recommendations.



Andy

 

[KFroese]

i got my truck back today... they said the u joints i installed were a little tight. the backed off the caps a bit and balanced the shafts as a unit. it took some weight and the hum is gone. they hit me for 123. 00. i think it was a fair price.

 

[mschoenheider]

Too bad they don't make these for the drive shafts.



http://www.ctmracing.com/axle.shtml



Mark