Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Tuesdak
TDR MEMBER
How much do you really know about that other oil? No, not engine oil, but, the oil you put in your fuel tank? There is a complete lack of much information about the expensive downside of Biodiesel. (And ULSD is also affected.) Anyone want to explain why OEM's don't want to approve high concentrations of Biodiesel use? I will put some knowledge out there from my own experience. Trust me you will get a bunch of blank stares when you have fuel problems because no one knows what you have going on. Oh yeah, the ignorant will blame the biodiesel off the bat with no specific reason given. So many happy feel good reasons to think about running it. Many 'happy happy joy joy' stories about people who have gotten away with using it. One needs to be a little more informed before going down that road.
Biodiesel is DOT and EPA approved. Biodiesel and USLD are more hygroscopic than the old diesel we are used to and the engine was built for. Yes, hygroscopic like brake fluid. Yes diesel injection equipment and water don't cheaply mix. Bugs love water. Mixing bugs, water, and diesel injection equipment quickly result in expensive no core value scrap.
The expensive problems with Biodiesel came to my attention when my diesel engines started to loose power and stall out from plugged fuel filters, restricted tank socks, and failing lift pumps. My biodiesel supplier was useless for information on what was going on. In the course of several months and several tank drop and clean outs I was able to figure out what was going on and possibly why.
The fuel filters on most OEM diesel pickups assume good clean fuel. When the OEM substandard filtration lets you down you are on your own warranty void for 'bad or dirty fuel' to try and recover replacement costs for injection pump, injectors, tanks, lift pump, other fuel system components, and labor. Always keep your fuel receipts! I am my own warranty station due to age and miles of my diesel rigs. This means I can experiment with fuels and "pay to play". Pay dearly I did.
I ran through 3000 gal of B99 without problems going ~550 per day @ ~10 MPG towing on a daily delivery route. I considered the fuel after this much use to be safe esp. in the hot climate of mine.
Suddenly here are some pictures of what I was looking at. No answers.
No, that isn't brown sand. it came off the fuel filter!
Sample of fuel from water drain. Even the water drain plugged up at one point as it was buried in this sludge. (This fuel was not treated.)
Tank socks and a round Walbro pre-filter. Note the OEM sock has the bypass valve in it and the Communist China made replacement sock doesn't have a bypass valve. Even the OEM valve plugged from tank lining coming off. Yes, you can vapor lock a diesel when the IP suction boils the diesel in the fuel line due to restriction.
No, this is NOT a rusty fuel tank! This is the diesel bug slime coating the tank!
#@$%!
So I tried running FPPF Killem Biocide. This didn't solve the problem. I was at a loss to what was going on. It took several more tank droppings and clean outs to finally figure it out. Over in the boating world the problem is a little more known. Even there they don't have complete answers. Regardless I used a different biocide and got results. Mainly it turned the diesel black and finally killed the bugs. I had to throw that what used to be fuel away. The different biocide is fuel and water soluble. I watched Killem drop to the bottom of clean diesel fuel in a bucket. Clearly the attack the bugs at the bottom of the tank isn't going to stop bugs growing in the fuel. Possible it was the wrong cure for the bugs I had? Sure, but, the new problem is more water suspended in the Biodiesel and ULSD fuel. I suggest the bugs avoid the poison in the tank bottom and grow in the fuel. New bugs can show up that are immune to a specific biocide so you should switch your biocide types now and then - note I didn't say brands as many brands are the same thing.
The bottom line is ULSD and Biodiesel are hygroscopic like brake fluid and suspend more water than the old #2 LSD diesel we know of the past. Effective biocide in ULSD and Biodiesel must be fuel and water soluble. I suggest the stuff that drops out of the fuel to attack the water fuel boundary is useless in today's hygroscopic fuel.
In part to add info from my reference below: Although I can't find anyone who has proven it I suggest the extra water suspension allows the bugs to grow IN the fuel rather than at the fuel/water boundary at the bottom of the tank where we are used to the problem being in the past. I further suggest that an active infection in biodiesel will generate water although I am not as clear on that. As an alternative I am clear that adding #2 ULSD to "wet" B99 will cause water to drop out of the fuel triggering WIF lights. The extra water in fuel allows bugs to grow in the fuel. I suggest the unexplained sudden growth stoppage of the bugs in wet fuel is simply the bugs running out of oxygen or similar item needed for growth that the water carries in the wet fuel.
Reference:
http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/p/diesel-biocides.html
Personal experiences:
Running B99 on a 2008 Duramax with a DPF resulted in a low oil pressure stop engine alarm. The engine made lots of oil from B99 not evaporating on the post injection event during the exhaust stroke. DPF cleanings took longer. MPG was reduced 10%. When I ran out of delivered B99 I filled up on #2 LSD (Still available cheap at one station at the time.) I experienced a water plugged fuel filter. The issue went away.
I experienced a second WIF light when I added #2 ULSD fuel to buggy B99. Conclusion B99 holds more water than ULSD and when mixed the amount of water the fuel can hold is reduced. Possible the filters are more effective at water removal with weaker Biodiesel concentrations.
The fuel system that survived had a CAT fuel water separator before the lift pump. The tank still had to come out and be replaced. (Cheaper than cleaning.) the other 6.5 engine lost the injection pump (ruined the IP head and rotor as well as rusting everything) and injectors. Off the top of my head parts that had to be replaced: two fuel tanks, countless fuel filters, 3-4 lift pumps, Injection pump, injector set, fuel filter manager, 25 gal of fuel wasted, boiled out in bed tank cleaning cost, labor for several tank droppings. (Seriously I HAD better things to do than repeatedly drop fuel tanks.)
I have ruined many lift pumps that can't take Methanol left over in B99. Bugs in the fuel also ruin lift pumps. Fuel hoses also have shorter life - very hard to find replacement hose that can take B99 for a long time.
The downside of Biodiesel use and other things to look at:
1) Reduced fuel MPG by 10% with B99 vs. #2 ULSD.
2) Hygroscopic means more water and a harder time for water separators to strip out the water. IP, fuel injectors, lift pumps, etc. don't like water.
3) Hygroscopic means your chance of getting bit badly by the diesel bug is much better.
4) Methanol used in the process to make Biodiesel doesn't all get removed. It ruins lift pumps and hoses. Most lift pumps void the warranty for Methanol use: not that it stops you from getting warranty - it means you will be changing the incompatible lift pump often.
5) Cold weather issues at higher concentrations.
6) Biodiesel is more of a solvent. It can clean your older fuel tank down to the bare metal plugging the sock and filters with the tin colored 'paint strips' from the tank.
7) Once in the oil Biodiesel doesn't evaporate back out like #2 does. Post injection DPF cleaning systems will make oil as Biodiesel doesn't evaporate during the exhaust stroke as well as #2 - it condenses on the cylinder walls. More frequent oil changes are required due to oil thinning. UOA will not find Biodiesel in engine oil to list as fuel contamination.
8) Does the Biodiesel supplier even pass ASTM tests? Extra Glycerin in the Biodiesel makes a mess. Don't trust their 'own in house testing'.
9) Less smoke, More NOx emmisions.
10) You are likely already running up to 5% depending on your state as some don't require a label below 5% mixes.
11) Some metals like brass are not compatible with Biodiesel. (Like the fittings on your homemade transfer pump.)
If you do want to venture down the Biodiesel road:
1) Lift pump must be rated to handle Biodiesel or be rated for Methanol use.
2) Change engine oil more often.
3) Inspect all fuel system hoses often.
4) Better than factory water fuel separators.
5) Run a biocide that is fuel water soluble.
6) Older trucks with metal fuel tanks can have the coating come off and plug filters.
7) Watch cloud point related to % Biodiesel use and your expected temperatures.
8) Don't be afraid to throw away bad fuel. It's cheaper to dispose of it as used engine oil than to ruin your injection system trying to dispose of it. Advice to try and burn as much of it off as you can - are they buying you new IP's and injectors?
YMMV. Again this is my own experience dealing with a nasty expensive battle that quite frankly no one knows much about. The battle was made worse by the Biodiesel and ineffective first treatments. I didn't say I was alone, just not much info out there. I welcome any comments, corrections, or other methods to run high concentrations of Biodiesel. Maybe water and bugs are not the only issue.
Biodiesel is DOT and EPA approved. Biodiesel and USLD are more hygroscopic than the old diesel we are used to and the engine was built for. Yes, hygroscopic like brake fluid. Yes diesel injection equipment and water don't cheaply mix. Bugs love water. Mixing bugs, water, and diesel injection equipment quickly result in expensive no core value scrap.
The expensive problems with Biodiesel came to my attention when my diesel engines started to loose power and stall out from plugged fuel filters, restricted tank socks, and failing lift pumps. My biodiesel supplier was useless for information on what was going on. In the course of several months and several tank drop and clean outs I was able to figure out what was going on and possibly why.
The fuel filters on most OEM diesel pickups assume good clean fuel. When the OEM substandard filtration lets you down you are on your own warranty void for 'bad or dirty fuel' to try and recover replacement costs for injection pump, injectors, tanks, lift pump, other fuel system components, and labor. Always keep your fuel receipts! I am my own warranty station due to age and miles of my diesel rigs. This means I can experiment with fuels and "pay to play". Pay dearly I did.
I ran through 3000 gal of B99 without problems going ~550 per day @ ~10 MPG towing on a daily delivery route. I considered the fuel after this much use to be safe esp. in the hot climate of mine.
Suddenly here are some pictures of what I was looking at. No answers.
No, that isn't brown sand. it came off the fuel filter!
Sample of fuel from water drain. Even the water drain plugged up at one point as it was buried in this sludge. (This fuel was not treated.)
Tank socks and a round Walbro pre-filter. Note the OEM sock has the bypass valve in it and the Communist China made replacement sock doesn't have a bypass valve. Even the OEM valve plugged from tank lining coming off. Yes, you can vapor lock a diesel when the IP suction boils the diesel in the fuel line due to restriction.
No, this is NOT a rusty fuel tank! This is the diesel bug slime coating the tank!
#@$%!
So I tried running FPPF Killem Biocide. This didn't solve the problem. I was at a loss to what was going on. It took several more tank droppings and clean outs to finally figure it out. Over in the boating world the problem is a little more known. Even there they don't have complete answers. Regardless I used a different biocide and got results. Mainly it turned the diesel black and finally killed the bugs. I had to throw that what used to be fuel away. The different biocide is fuel and water soluble. I watched Killem drop to the bottom of clean diesel fuel in a bucket. Clearly the attack the bugs at the bottom of the tank isn't going to stop bugs growing in the fuel. Possible it was the wrong cure for the bugs I had? Sure, but, the new problem is more water suspended in the Biodiesel and ULSD fuel. I suggest the bugs avoid the poison in the tank bottom and grow in the fuel. New bugs can show up that are immune to a specific biocide so you should switch your biocide types now and then - note I didn't say brands as many brands are the same thing.
The bottom line is ULSD and Biodiesel are hygroscopic like brake fluid and suspend more water than the old #2 LSD diesel we know of the past. Effective biocide in ULSD and Biodiesel must be fuel and water soluble. I suggest the stuff that drops out of the fuel to attack the water fuel boundary is useless in today's hygroscopic fuel.
In part to add info from my reference below: Although I can't find anyone who has proven it I suggest the extra water suspension allows the bugs to grow IN the fuel rather than at the fuel/water boundary at the bottom of the tank where we are used to the problem being in the past. I further suggest that an active infection in biodiesel will generate water although I am not as clear on that. As an alternative I am clear that adding #2 ULSD to "wet" B99 will cause water to drop out of the fuel triggering WIF lights. The extra water in fuel allows bugs to grow in the fuel. I suggest the unexplained sudden growth stoppage of the bugs in wet fuel is simply the bugs running out of oxygen or similar item needed for growth that the water carries in the wet fuel.
Reference:
http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/p/diesel-biocides.html
Personal experiences:
Running B99 on a 2008 Duramax with a DPF resulted in a low oil pressure stop engine alarm. The engine made lots of oil from B99 not evaporating on the post injection event during the exhaust stroke. DPF cleanings took longer. MPG was reduced 10%. When I ran out of delivered B99 I filled up on #2 LSD (Still available cheap at one station at the time.) I experienced a water plugged fuel filter. The issue went away.
I experienced a second WIF light when I added #2 ULSD fuel to buggy B99. Conclusion B99 holds more water than ULSD and when mixed the amount of water the fuel can hold is reduced. Possible the filters are more effective at water removal with weaker Biodiesel concentrations.
The fuel system that survived had a CAT fuel water separator before the lift pump. The tank still had to come out and be replaced. (Cheaper than cleaning.) the other 6.5 engine lost the injection pump (ruined the IP head and rotor as well as rusting everything) and injectors. Off the top of my head parts that had to be replaced: two fuel tanks, countless fuel filters, 3-4 lift pumps, Injection pump, injector set, fuel filter manager, 25 gal of fuel wasted, boiled out in bed tank cleaning cost, labor for several tank droppings. (Seriously I HAD better things to do than repeatedly drop fuel tanks.)
I have ruined many lift pumps that can't take Methanol left over in B99. Bugs in the fuel also ruin lift pumps. Fuel hoses also have shorter life - very hard to find replacement hose that can take B99 for a long time.
The downside of Biodiesel use and other things to look at:
1) Reduced fuel MPG by 10% with B99 vs. #2 ULSD.
2) Hygroscopic means more water and a harder time for water separators to strip out the water. IP, fuel injectors, lift pumps, etc. don't like water.
3) Hygroscopic means your chance of getting bit badly by the diesel bug is much better.
4) Methanol used in the process to make Biodiesel doesn't all get removed. It ruins lift pumps and hoses. Most lift pumps void the warranty for Methanol use: not that it stops you from getting warranty - it means you will be changing the incompatible lift pump often.
5) Cold weather issues at higher concentrations.
6) Biodiesel is more of a solvent. It can clean your older fuel tank down to the bare metal plugging the sock and filters with the tin colored 'paint strips' from the tank.
7) Once in the oil Biodiesel doesn't evaporate back out like #2 does. Post injection DPF cleaning systems will make oil as Biodiesel doesn't evaporate during the exhaust stroke as well as #2 - it condenses on the cylinder walls. More frequent oil changes are required due to oil thinning. UOA will not find Biodiesel in engine oil to list as fuel contamination.
8) Does the Biodiesel supplier even pass ASTM tests? Extra Glycerin in the Biodiesel makes a mess. Don't trust their 'own in house testing'.
9) Less smoke, More NOx emmisions.
10) You are likely already running up to 5% depending on your state as some don't require a label below 5% mixes.
11) Some metals like brass are not compatible with Biodiesel. (Like the fittings on your homemade transfer pump.)
If you do want to venture down the Biodiesel road:
1) Lift pump must be rated to handle Biodiesel or be rated for Methanol use.
2) Change engine oil more often.
3) Inspect all fuel system hoses often.
4) Better than factory water fuel separators.
5) Run a biocide that is fuel water soluble.
6) Older trucks with metal fuel tanks can have the coating come off and plug filters.
7) Watch cloud point related to % Biodiesel use and your expected temperatures.
8) Don't be afraid to throw away bad fuel. It's cheaper to dispose of it as used engine oil than to ruin your injection system trying to dispose of it. Advice to try and burn as much of it off as you can - are they buying you new IP's and injectors?
YMMV. Again this is my own experience dealing with a nasty expensive battle that quite frankly no one knows much about. The battle was made worse by the Biodiesel and ineffective first treatments. I didn't say I was alone, just not much info out there. I welcome any comments, corrections, or other methods to run high concentrations of Biodiesel. Maybe water and bugs are not the only issue.
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