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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Ultimate front end fix?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Which block do I have?

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"I will never run larger than a 35" tire on my truck with my H2 rims, so the Ball joints are acceptable, compared to the hassles involved with going to the Kingpin knuckles. "



Smart man. My buddy found out how limited in strength ball joints are on his mudbogger while running 44" Superswampers during a competition. It's gets real ugly when the ballstuds pull out of the sockets...



But wouldn't a reasonably-priced knuckles-out conversion be a godsend? I'd sacrifice one of my Chevy Dana 60's if it's kingpin knuckles, shafts, hubs, etc. could be made to work on my 2nd gen's Dana 60 without busting the bank. .



As for the coil spring vs. leaf spring ride quality, flex, etc. , that really depends on who's springs (either style) you are running. A ride in my K30 crewcab might change some minds about how plush and flexy leafs can be. It's not a rockcrawler (ultimate flex), and even the best rockcrawler coil suspension would not fit the bill for how that truck is used. The coil setup definitely has alot more moving parts and expense and things to go wrong. I like things simple, tried, and true. But I like your plan for the 2nd gen Dodge front axle, Murfman. There's no avoiding some compromising even with spending a couple three thousand dollars. It won't be silk purse, but it will be a long way from the factory sow's ear.
 
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Last year I installed the SS 2nd to 3rd gen TB bracket, SS Adj Track Bar, and and a PSC 3 turn box. Very happy with the upgrades. Now that I fixed the wobble when braking with new drilled/slotted rotors the truck steers with one finger and tracks straight. The truck is fun to drive now. The 3rd gen steering box upgrade I've heard about sure is pricey at $1200. I'm happy with the PSC 3 turn box for now and it was much cheaper.



Dave



Tell me more about these mods and where are they available?? Thanks...
 
Found this appears to be just as good as the other on on source automotives website and cheaper... .

PSC Motorsports
I got all the mods I listed earlier (DSS, 3rd gen TB conv. bracket, Adj 3rd gen TB and PSC 3 turn steering gear from PSC last February for just over $1000.



It looks like PSC doesn't offer the SS track bars and TB bracket anymore. All they offer is the DSS and their steering gear. The steering gear I got was SG-841M for my 97. I really like this mod more than any of the others because its a 3 turn box (helps death wobble) and the light valving allows me to steer with one finger... . wife really likes it. It takes some getting used to because when coming out of a turn the steering wheel will not return on its own so I have to manually turn it. I love driving the truck now.



You can try Dodge 5. 9L Cummins 94-02 - Suspension Systems also for some of these parts and they are cheaper. They offer a BD-Power version of the DSS and the SS TB bracket for 3rd gen TB. Most on this site will say go with the SS version which Source Automotive Steering/Suspension (among others) offers and I tend to agree with them. Apparently there have been poor fit issues with the SS clones out there... . buyer beware.



If welding the TB bracket is not an issue then the Thuren product Thuren Fabrication-products is another option among others. I tend to like the SS TB bracket design cause it bolts on and I like the non-heim joint 3rd genTB from SS which is a bolt thru on the frame end and not a heim joint... just my preference and I don't know if its better or not. And here is the SS . biz web site Solid Steel. biz.



I am very pleased with my front end choices.



Dave
 
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Well my take would be:

Axle:

02 non CAD housing (trussed top and bottom), 35 spline inners, Detroit TrueTrac diff, Mag Hytech cover, and DynaTrac's "Stub Hub" kit modified to fit the 02 Knuckle, and Dynatracs new lockout Hub and 35 spline outer stub axles. This way the Hub is 2. 388" shorter, and wont stick out beyond the wheel.

I will never run larger than a 35" tire on my truck with my H2 rims, so the Ball joints are acceptable, compared to the hassles involved with going to the Kingpin knuckles.



Suspension:

The Carli kit with the air bumps



No leaf spring can compare to a proerly shocked and set up coil link suspension for ride, travel, and traction IMHO



Steering:

DSS, 3rd Gen box adjustable trac bar.



Just tweeking what is already there



It wouldn't be cheap, but it would be attainable, piece by piece, and would be a nice upgrade, especially for an early 2nd gen, with the 2002s better calipers and non CAD housing.





To compiment this would be a 2002 rear D80 W/ Discs and Scheids 37 spline upgrade and Detroit Locker and Mag Hytech cover



Well I'm working on it!! I picked up a 2002 Non CAD housing for 400. 00 I am going to strip it down and get it sand blasted next week. I plan on adding a truss from lower "C" to lower "C", and gusseting the upper "C" to the spring buckets. I ordered 8 Large Johnny Joints and some 2" . 250 wall DOM for the control arms. I also ordered 2 small Johnny Joints, I am going to modify the axle bracket for the trac-bar to accomidate the Jonny joint, and fab a bracket to convert to the 3rd gen style Trac-bar. I have some 1. 5" . 250 wall DOM for this. I am looking for a 3rd gen box, and will make an adapter plate to mount it to the frame. I am going to make the control arms 1. 5" longer to accomidate the 3" springs and move the axle forward forward 1" I am gojng to see If I can move the box forward the same amount to keep the steering lined up.



After looking at all the alternatives, SOLID Mfg's hub kit is going to be my choice, Chrome moly hubs and spindles, along with the beefiest spindle I've seen for ANY front 60 have my vote.
 
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Ok, it is time to do some work on the front end of the 2001. What would you consider the ultimate fix for front end on the 2nd gen trucks? I plan on keeping this truck for a long time, heck I have a 93 ford 1t with 320,000 on the clock, so I think the Dodge should last at least 1/2 million!



The ultimate high mileage fixes are as follows.....

#1 98-99 DODGE Tie rods. .

#2 Hub Carriers, spindles, and hubs from 94-98 F-250/350 w/ DANA 60F

#3 Plenty of grease

#4 USE ONLY MOOG PARTS!!!!!!!!
 
I installed the DSS, and a new track bar a few years ago. It tightened up the looseness in the front end considerably. I just did the track bar again, since it was loose again. This time, I spent the money and installed a new steering box, (3 turn from PSS), and a 3rd gen trackbar, and just got done installing all new tie rods. Now I have absolutely no play in the steering wheel, whatsoever. It drives like my 3rd gen.
 
Smart man. My buddy found out how limited in strength ball joints are on his mudbogger while running 44" Superswampers during a competition. It's gets real ugly when the ballstuds pull out of the sockets... .



I kinda doubt 44" tires and mudbog competetions were part of the design criteria... ... And, no - even the coveted king pin Dana 60 will not last indefinitely under those conditions. .



Brian
 
DSS Upgrades

Who all has the DSS upgrades and what do you think of them?



It seems that too many people wait until the front end needs fixing, then chase it for a long time. Owning a '96 Jeep ZJ with the same front end design as the Ram, I decided to try to head off the problems by upgrading early.



At 20K mi, I replaced the shocks with Bilstein 5100 series.

At 30K mi, added the DSS steering brace.

At 40K mi, upgraded to the 3rd gen trackbar

At 50K mi, replaced the steering stabilizer (Rancho)

Every 5K mi, I lube everything with a zerk fitting and rotate the tires.

Mileages are approximate.

I still have all original links and 86K mi on the odometer.



Maybe I'm just lucky, but I don't seem to have the handling problems that so many other do. Or maybe my maintenance and upgrade policy has prevented or at least slowed the excessive front end degradation that plagues our trucks. Mine doesn't wander, clunk, or steer funny.



So I have to give a bunch of credit to the DSS parts and the fact that they were applied before wear became excessive. If your front end is already bad, you need to fix all the out-of-spec stuff first, then support it with better parts. Also, I rarely drive on rough roads, so I'm sure that helps to not wear things out so fast.
 
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