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Upgrade w/stock injectors?

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Seriously thinking about upgrading the stock injectors through a local shop. They'll remove the stock injectors and modify through an Extrude Hone(?) process. Thinking about adding 90hp. Anyone have experience good or bad with this type of upgrade? Not sure of the power levels that can be achieved through this process. I know they can do 50 & 90hp. Looking to add some zip and maybe a little fuel mileage. I tow 5500pds plus family and camping gear. Not looking to break the EGT gauge (which has already been ordered).



Secondly, has anyone noticed a difference by swapping to a better flow muffler. Looking for opinions on EGT reduction and difference in noise.
 
The muffler didn't make that big of a difference, but the cat dropped the temps several hundred degrees.



You might want to look into upgrading the turbo. My temps shot up pretty good with injectors and at the time I had a turbo that was a little bigger than stock. I've since upgraded and looking to do so again;)
 
At stock levels just adding a muffler didn't make a great big difference. But as you add more air intake items , ie air intake kit, turbo it will make a difference. Plus it will drop the egts slightly.
 
You'll see better mileage gains with a dood timing/duration box that you will with injectors. The injectors aren't really a weak point, I've watched third gen trucks dyno over 500 hp on stock injectors. That said, I've been hearing good things about DDP's injectors.



-Scott
 
wcjp said:
Seriously thinking about upgrading the stock injectors through a local shop. They'll remove the stock injectors and modify through an Extrude Hone(?) process.



Are you sure these injectors can be extrude honed? Certainly the area downstream of the needle could be done, but it seems like you'd need some really special equipment to do the pinholes! I'm not saying it can't be done (quite the opposite), but is the shop to which you refer aware of the requirements for the common rail injectors?



-Ryan
 
rbattelle



I think it's an Extrude Hone process. I was talking with a guy at one of the local Bomb parties that had this done to his late 05'. I know they now do the work inhouse due to some new fancy machine.



Anyone have any reports on EGT's with 50 or 90hp upgrade towing near 5500pds?
 
They call it a honeing process but I believe it is basically an abrasive slurry pumped through them at high pressure. I assume DDP is the shop you're referring to and I suggest calling them with these questions. Tell them what you have and what you want, see what they suggest. They're straight shooters.



-Scott
 
rbattelle said:
Are you sure these injectors can be extrude honed? Certainly the area downstream of the needle could be done, but it seems like you'd need some really special equipment to do the pinholes! I'm not saying it can't be done (quite the opposite), but is the shop to which you refer aware of the requirements for the common rail injectors?



-Ryan





Hello,



We are aware of the in's and outs of a common rail injector. The honing process primarily focuses on the pinholes, and where the fuel enters those holes. We are working on getting some pictures through our boroscope. For now, if anybody is local and wants to see through it, our machine, and or our maching process feel free to stop buy. :)



Ross
 
Enough extrude honing is a mature technology. It is well established that it works. Even Bosch does some honing (they call it "hydro grinding") during manufacture. It puts a small radius or chamfer on the inner edge of the pinhole to smooth the flow.



You probably wouldn't want to do this to your original stockers if they had a lot of miles. Better off starting with new nozzles and honing them. A few thousand miles should be ok.



Like anything, it is best in moderation. Too much honing will ruin the nozzle, just like having lots of miles. Might not matter for someone who is doing it strictly for dyno bragging rights or racing. But for a street truck that gets lots of miles, where longevity matters, you're probably better off with a moderate hone. Or you can start with bigger holes and then hone them for the polished finish and radiusing.
 
Well Said Kerma!









KERMA said:
Enough extrude honing is a mature technology. It is well established that it works. Even Bosch does some honing (they call it "hydro grinding") during manufacture. It puts a small radius or chamfer on the inner edge of the pinhole to smooth the flow.



You probably wouldn't want to do this to your original stockers if they had a lot of miles. Better off starting with new nozzles and honing them. A few thousand miles should be ok.



Like anything, it is best in moderation. Too much honing will ruin the nozzle, just like having lots of miles. Might not matter for someone who is doing it strictly for dyno bragging rights or racing. But for a street truck that gets lots of miles, where longevity matters, you're probably better off with a moderate hone. Or you can start with bigger holes and then hone them for the polished finish and radiusing.
 
SRadke said:
They call it a honeing process but I believe it is basically an abrasive slurry pumped through them at high pressure.



Wow, I had never heard of such a thing. Makes sense, though. Pretty cool. :cool:



-Ryan
 
KERMA said:
Enough extrude honing is a mature technology. It is well established that it works. Even Bosch does some honing (they call it "hydro grinding") during manufacture. It puts a small radius or chamfer on the inner edge of the pinhole to smooth the flow.



You probably wouldn't want to do this to your original stockers if they had a lot of miles. Better off starting with new nozzles and honing them. A few thousand miles should be ok.



Like anything, it is best in moderation. Too much honing will ruin the nozzle, just like having lots of miles. Might not matter for someone who is doing it strictly for dyno bragging rights or racing. But for a street truck that gets lots of miles, where longevity matters, you're probably better off with a moderate hone. Or you can start with bigger holes and then hone them for the polished finish and radiusing.



i too agree with that statement!!! :-laf
 
I had them done to my '05 G56 dually. Only thing I had prior was a 4" into 5" exhaust into duals with straight through muffler and cold air intake w/K&N filter. Dynoed stock at 272whp, dynoed 345whp after the hone job. I looked at the injector tips through the borescope and the stock ones looked like crud (only 11K miles too). After the hone they looked great.



The difference in driving the truck is night/day. It really gave it more bottom end power and pulls harder and harder up past 3K where it used to start dropping off above 2700rpm. I normally drive around town between 1200-1700rpm since it gives me much better mileage there. The extra power between 1200-1700rpm is very noticeable and makes it drive much nicer. Throttle response is tons faster at all rpms and throttle settings.



In my opinion, if you are only going to want 350whp or so then just get the 90hp hone job. If you want more power than that it might be better to get the 50hp hone and then stack a small 30-50hp pressure box with a timing duration box.
 
KERMA said:
Enough extrude honing is a mature technology. It is well established that it works. Even Bosch does some honing (they call it "hydro grinding") during manufacture. It puts a small radius or chamfer on the inner edge of the pinhole to smooth the flow.



You probably wouldn't want to do this to your original stockers if they had a lot of miles. Better off starting with new nozzles and honing them. A few thousand miles should be ok.



Like anything, it is best in moderation. Too much honing will ruin the nozzle, just like having lots of miles. Might not matter for someone who is doing it strictly for dyno bragging rights or racing. But for a street truck that gets lots of miles, where longevity matters, you're probably better off with a moderate hone. Or you can start with bigger holes and then hone them for the polished finish and radiusing.



So the DDP route would not be a wise move for stock injectors w/50,000+ miles if I'm looking for longevity??
 
CSilkowski said:
53,000 miles



53k is no problem at all. The Common Rail Nozzles have a multiangle step in them to increase their life. The nozzles (even honed to 90hp) will likely outlast the body of the injector. We will warrant these nozzles for 100,000 miles as long as the failure is not caused by bad fuel a pressure box, or any other misuse.



Let me know if I can help further



Ross
 
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