Upgrading the 48RE!

[ChrisKringle]

Well I've talked to all the big names.



Money hungries want me to 'rebuild' and invest (if you can call it that) in HD parts--billet shafts, more frictions, flex plates, billet servo, billet piston, solid 2nd gear strap, accumulator, etc.



I've been told straight up there isn't anything wrong with the 48RE. With only 30K miles it would be a waste to do a 'rebuild' with 2nd gear band, new/more direct and overdrive clutches, servo, piston, etc.



Suncoast told me: torque converter, valve body, laminated flex plate, and billet input shaft for the intended horse power. Sounds reasonable



Other info I've 'heard', flexplate and input probably won't fail unless your gettin' crazy.









I'm convinced (unless YOU tell me otherwise), for this SIMPLE transmission, I'll live a happy life with a $500 TCS (same design as DTT--89, 91%, etc. ) converter, $450 valve body (raise line pressure to around 175 psi for holding power), a 3. 8 ratio shift lever (to lower apply pressure to 2nd band), and that's about it.



Toss in around $500 to remove and install at a local shop and I save about $3-4000 depending on what 'Top End' company you go with. That's enough dough to remove and install the transmission 6-8 times IF you ever had probs.



Well needless to say, with the small fortune I'm saving, I just ordered a HTB2 Turbo from HTT and STILL have change to put toward an SRT-10 hood!



By the way, talked to Dave at Goerend Bros. transmission and he is a very informative/nice guy. He offers a LIFETIME! warrantied triple disk configuration converter with billet cover for $1200! You can upgrade to a '1020' sled puller stator for $400 which GETS THE POWER TO THE GROUND! It's a tight converter very efficient from what I gather. Says it will start the truck moving in a power brake at about 1750 rpm's.



I would love to run this converter more that anything, but at three times the cost of a TCS-DTT it's not a viable option for me at this time. Hell, I work for my money and I still have gauges, wheels, tires flares, subs, bed liner, FASS, injectors, hood, lift, etc. to worry about.











Morale of the story: Just say no to Performance Chips of Utah, err, I mean transmission upgrades aren't the end of the world and you don't have to take out a second mortage to cover the job. Hell I'd do the job myself, but hate crawling around under a vehicle without a truck lift.







Opinions please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

 

[WCounts]

You may want to check your Front and rear clutches while the transmission is out. With the mods you'r running they may be burnt if you've done any drag racing. When you see the stock band and strut you'll want to up grade them.

I wouldn't use less than a triple disc converter and I would get everything from the same place so they will be matched up.

Your transmission is one place you don't want to cut corners.

 

[CLAYTON]

ChrisKringle... are you here in Utah?

 

[CATCRACKER]

if you simply dont have the money for full upgraded this is a good route not the best bet a real good one if you are beating your truck up all the time keep it stock or buy the full transmission

 

[0013]

IMHO i guess it all depends where you want to go w/ your rig. whether keeping it stock, throwing added HP/TQ at it, doing alot of towing, etc. i



n your sig i noticed some BOMB's. if it were my rig--i get the transmission done. yes its a big expense--but whats the most important part of your rig if you tow or have upgraded power? i would say the transmission. power is nothing if you cant put to the ground. just my . 02 good luck whatever road you choose to take. God bless

chris

 

[Floor It]

Good luck with the TCS convertor, Its NOT the same as the origanal DTT convertor!!



John

 

[ChrisKringle]

It's not that I don't have the money for the complete upgrade. Originally a full DTT was in store with flexplate, billet input, and updates.



Now that I've learned (been told that is, just the same as I've been told I need this and that 'till my estimate chimed in at $4-5000) a few things turns out torque converter and valve body will do the job AND get the power to the ground. The transmission already has enough direct and over drive clutch packs, and with the 'loose' coupling of the stock TC I don't think the friction material would be glazed or harmed. The friction material isn't made in china (actually it could be?), it's either borg-warner or raybestos material--grade A.



I agree, a flexplate and input shaft could be in order if your racing frequently. Thats an additional $1200, which I guess would be an 'insurance' policy.



It's a daily driver, but I like to have fun occasionly so racing is sometimes. Wouldn't mind doing a couple of 1/4 mile passes. Pulling--just my jeep on a flatbed, 5-6000lbs.

 

[ChrisKringle]

Good luck with the TCS convertor, Its NOT the same as the origanal DTT convertor!!



John

How does the TCS unit differ from DTT's? Lifetime steel stator, single disk clutch, welded, etc. , 2 year warranty on TC. Granted the geometry 'could' be different on the vanes of the stator, but that's not the impression I gather.

 

[robertyoke]

well I am running the money hungries product from colorado, tc and vb, and the others initials product for input and flex plate. Other than that the internals are stock and I tow heavy and the power is on, should be in the 550+hp range. The fluid is still nice and clean and the trans temps stay low. for what its worth!

-robert

 

[ChrisKringle]

well I am running the money hungries product from colorado, tc and vb, and the others initials product for input and flex plate. Other than that the internals are stock and I tow heavy and the power is on, should be in the 550+hp range. The fluid is still nice and clean and the trans temps stay low. for what its worth!

-robert

Thanks Robert, see that's what I'm lookin' for--some real world experience, peoples thoughts, etc.

 

[DWestfall]

CHRIS I AM WITH YOU! I wish I would get a straight answer about my transmission. I cant see paying $3-4000 for a transmission when I will never need that much transmission. I want reliability. I also want to have fun with my truck, but that much money? I just cant see that for what I use it for. I pull only 4000lbs, mostly highway. I have a chip. I like to burn tires and do a little drag racing. Maybe in the future, just a little more horespower. I dont think $3-4000 is worth what I am doing or plan on doing. Your thoughts or suggestions, please!

 

[MikeBeggy]

I just finished upgrading mine a couple of weeks ago. I too researched all the opinions etc. I went with a 1600 stall triple disc from Precision Industries and a valve body kit from Tony at Dunnrite Convertors. Tony's kit was $140 and had all the upgrades you read about plus he includes about a half dozen replacement seals and such to prevent "folding" your stock seals when you increase line pressures. My truck is a completely different animal now and I am very pleased with the results.

 

[ChrisKringle]

I think (just opinion) the majority of 48RE owners only need a TC and valve body. Even running a chip or two. If the pressure on your valve body is turned up to 175 psi or more than even a single disk converter (one of the most popular companies uses this setup) will hold lockup.



I guess triple disk is 3 times as good? They are only a couple hundred dollars more, and you can even get one with a lifetime warrenty from Goerend Bros. I am not affiliated with Goerend in any manner, just think that's standing behind your product!



In my OPINION, fluid coupling and stator design is overlooked when making a decision on what to run. Maybe not overlooked, but neglected. When the TC clutch is not locked (under 50mph), then your relying on fluid coupling. How your truck drives around the city is determined mostly by stator design.

I rode in a truck that had a popular brand triple disk with lockup controller. I wasn't impressed with the 'efficiency' on the converter. 'Loose is what some people call it. On full throttle tack would shoot up to a high stall rpm. I want my truck to go, not just rev the motor. That's why I'm replacing the stock piece of junk in the first place. I hate when I go to pass and the tack just shoots up to 3000. Just opinion.



What about the other do-dads that rack the bill up to the thousands? Billet input and or output shafts. A 4-wheel drive launch at the strip could break one, but it also could be an unnecessary expense.



Laminated or billet flexplate? I guess if your converter uses a billet cover and weighs substantialy more than the stock unit, then it adds stress to the cover. From what I've been 'told', daily driver fine. Don't see many failures. 800hp sledpuller or something, maybe. Solid second gear band with Kevlar lining... , depends on who ya talk to. Heard the stock one is just fine. I think they give those things away anyhow.



$400 speed selective lockup switch. $5 switch, and a couple minutes to splice the wire. I guess having it automatically unlock at under 9mph would be nice, but if you have an efficient converter, then I'm hoping I won't have to live in lockup to get things moving.



These guys are making big money telling you the trans needs to be rebuilt with new direct and overdrive clutch packs, reworked 3rd gear drum setup (over$500!), etc. , etc.



I think there is a place for a full 'billet' trans, maybe if I was doing some sort of diesel drags every weekend or sledpulling competition. Even for towing heavy loads, torque converter and valve body for me. Once again, just what I'm thinkin' over here. With the help of some phone calls of course.



I got an estimate over here for close to $6000 for a popular 3 disk company.



The way things are looking, I'm going $1200 lifetime TC, $450 VB, install $450=$2100 + tax on install (order TC & VB out of state, avoid tax), fluid, and some shipping. I might go with the billet input shaft, cause I might do some 4wd launches for fun at the track. That's $695, puts the bill at under $3000, and closer to $2000 if you don't need the shaft.



I know ya'll with the full 'billet' trannys are saying 'well good luck with your half way transmission'. Mines gonna drive just the same as your and most likely last until I sell the truck and then some. Now if your still driving your $6000 transmission 10 years down the road, hats off to you. I'll be in my 2015 V8 Turbo Cummins Escalade with a variable geometry auto transmission that doesn't have gears. By then Toyota is the number one selling HD diesel pickup and Swarzenneger is president.

 

[Stefan Kondolay]

Kringle/Craig



So you know the input shaft isn't really for launching in 4wd, unless the research you've done tells you that too. Most of us launching in 4wd use a Billet Output Shaft and also have an Billet Input shaft for the power. I would probably keep researching.

 

[JVolpe]

You know you guys are really making it hard to make a decision. I also have talked to a couple of the big 3. I have talked to local performance shops that specialize in their products. I will now also talk to the people that Mike got his setup from. I do want to be able to hit the drag strip on a regular basis with at least 550rwhp. Since I am not capable of doing any of the upgrades personally, it is a very difficult decision. I have been trying to decide since November on which way to go. I am no closer to a decision than I was when I started. But at least I know there are more options to choose from.



Thanks

 

[ChrisKringle]

Kringle/Craig



So you know the input shaft isn't really for launching in 4wd, unless the research you've done tells you that too. Most of us launching in 4wd use a Billet Output Shaft and also have an Billet Input shaft for the power. I would probably keep researching.

Thank you Stephan,





I did not know that. Your the transmission expert, but it also pays your mortgage as well--right? I guess I should have spent a moment or two longer conversing with you on the tele.



I was given the impression (from somebody else) that if the output shat breaks, it's a clean one (usually) and doesn't even require removing the whole transmission (but sixes either way) to replace.



Hey, I've only heard good about your transmissions so I shall refrain from including your company initials in future posts. Really, I'd like to run one but I feel there should be more than one Microsoft.



By the way, it's Santa Claus in the future. HOHOHO

 

[Don-T]

I have the Stage V from the guys in Colorado. I had some trouble with their stuff. It took some time to get it fixed mostly because the local installer are not transmission technicians. ATS stood behind their product all the way through. After we gave up on the installer fixing it, ATS found a trans tech in my hometown and after calling him they sent me there to get it checked out. It took the tech a total of four hours to get it all sorted out and now I am very happy with the trans. As far as I am concerned ATS came through on this one. They even had the trans tech bill ATS directly so I did not have to try to get my money back. I have mods to the motor in my truck and I pull a camper that weighs just under 13k lbs.

 

[RMalone]

I really dont know too much about trannys or bombing. But I do know that this stuff is addicting and I have driven a couple of trucks with full blown performance trannys (from the company that starts with a D). The difference in power to the ground is significant sort of makes you start thinking about twins . I see no reason to do half a transmission job, most guys that post on this site WILL want more power. I myself will probably give the money hungries my 5 or 6 grrr. this spring and never have to worry about that end of the equation again. Just my opinion but I hate the unknown and if I pay big money for a job I want it done right. Just make sure the install is done by someone with the skills that seems to be a very common comment by people on TDR, after all just because you have a laser doesnt mean you know how to perform surgery.

Boy are trannys ever the most hotly bebated topic on TDR.

 

[ChrisKringle]

round two... ... .....

 

[CATCRACKER]

blew my input with only 375hp of course i have the worst combo for strain on the shafts 4:10 rear, dually headed up steep incline.



i had ats old converter and while i had the transmission out for the new input i got their new mixed flow stator which is like night and day to their old one.



"full billet, tiger tooth stator, triple disc, square tab design"

it is an incredible converter!