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I purchased a new 2001, 24V, 2500, 4X4, Auto, to pull a 5th wheel trailer. The dealer talked me out of the model I wanted (3500, 2X, dually, 5 speed) and claimed the one I purchased would do what ever I needed and more. Well the trailer my Wife insisted on weighted in at 10K empty and 12K wet and with our stuff in it. I come to find out that the truck is only rated for around 9. 5 K. Well I went to the dealer and raisedH**l and they still claimed I would have no problem. I bought the trailer and took her on the maiden voyage, up and over mountains similar to the Rockies and back. It seemed to do ok but I would like to add a little extra. I’m thinking of adding a Van Aaken CPC or an EZ which claims 40% increase in horse and torque. This is a stock truck and I don’t want to add a lot of beef but we plan to do an East West Coast turn around in August and I really don’t want any problems. I’m taking a month to do it so I don’t have to push. Does anyone out there know if the CPC or EZ will do as claimed and which would be best for me? I’m new at this diesel thing and can use all the help I can get. This is our retirement vehicle and I hope I didn’t do wrong???? I also plan on adding gauges to monitor her vital signs .
#ad





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2001' 2500 - QC/LB SLT, ISB w/Auto, 4X4, 3. 54 LSD,Tow package, 15k 5-er Hitch, Tow 31 ft 5-er 12K lbs. Jet Black with Gray belly.

[This message has been edited by rcl44@pacbell.net (edited 03-02-2001). ]
 
Howdy and welcome,

I don't think that you can go wrong with either, they are both good products. I believe I heard someone say that the VA had more bottom end power than the EZ, so that might be something to consider.

I have the auto in my truck, and I would really recommend a valve body upgrade if you add any power. You are running heavy for what your truck is rated, but these trucks routinely pull more than they are rated for. The reason that I recommend a valve body upgrade if that the internal pressures are just not very high to begin with which leads to slipping. Pulling heavy like you are tends to lead to more slipping... #ad


Another thing you need to think about is if you would be adding an exhaust brake. If so then you will really need to do something to help your transmission.

You have a really nice truck, I hope you enjoy it like I have enjoyed mine.

Good luck,
Mike

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'99 QC 2500 SLT Driftwood 2wd SB 24v Auto 3. 55 LSD
ISSPRO boost and pyrometer, Autometer 3 gauge replacement pillar, Walker 24168, DTT VB
-- email address removed --
Howdy Agg's!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Good looking rig. About the same weight as mine, 12,400 loaded. I don't know anything about the other boxes but have first hand experience with the BD Plug and Play which is the VA CPC with BD,s name on it. With the box plugged in, the engine runs faster with the accelerator pedal depressed less causing the throttle valve (kickdown) linkage to be out of adjustment, this will cause the torque converter to slip at light throttle. The box does give you good aditional power, exactly how much, I don't know. I could go up grades in OD which would have caused the trans. to downshift without it. I can't make the torque convertor slip without the box. I would suggest you upgrade your transmission if you plan to use the VA. Actually the transmission is fine and capable of handling the power but the way it changes things the torque convertor won't handle it.

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White 99 3500, QC, 3:55, auto. most options except leather, Line-X bed liner, fiberglass running boards Rancho 9000s, bug shield and window vents, black vented 5th wheel tailgate, 110 gal. aux. fuel tank.
 
I'll second what K_Arts said. Bill K's transmission mods will make it a different truck and will easily handle your fifth wheel. If you then succumb to the bombing bug and want more power, and I would recommend doing that, your transmission will handle it. I strongly recommend this approach if your are going to do a lot of towing. They are good trucks but can be so much better you won't believe it, and should give many years of trouble free service. In my opinion these mods add longevity to your truck. Good luck, Tom
PS; I pull a 33ft Cardinal, gross about 19K, no problem, will go faster than I want to go, no lack of power on hills.
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Tom W in Austin Tx 98 24v 2500 Quadcab, auto, 3. 54, lsd, Rhino, white/driftwood, Banks Stinger Plus, 275 injectors, Manix grill, nerf bars , DTT's TC, valvebody, cooler, Mag-hytec trans & diff, Pac brake.

[This message has been edited by Tom W (edited 03-02-2001). ]
 
Kev... I'm familiar with Bill K's work, but I've never heard/seen any reference to the "smart controller set-up". What are you referring to? Is this a separate mod or just part of his normal TC/VB install?

Thanks

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White 2001. 5 2500 ST, SWB, 4X4,QC, AUTO, 4. 10's, LSD, 285/75/16 On Weld Outbacks, PIAA 510's, Line-x, Tinted glass, Redline 85+.

Soon to come: Bill K's TC/VB, EZ, DD Stage 1, DiPricol Gauges, RE-0880 and 25-0880, Stan's Headers 4" exhaust, Bilstein shocks, Westin step-bars.
 
Bill has a box that will control the converter in a much more efficent manner than the dodge pcm. Bill's box will cause the tc to unlock under heavy throttle so that the clutch is not burnt, it will keep the tc from locking under heavy throttle (so that the clutch is not burnt) and it also makes the tc work well with exhaust brakes.

I got to drive Bill's truck in Dallas a few weeks ago with this box installed and it was quite impressive.

Mike
 
Mikel

Thanks... I'll talk to Bill about it. Going up there in a few weeks for the install.

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White 2001. 5 2500 ST, SWB, 4X4,QC, AUTO, 4. 10's, LSD, 285/75/16 On Weld Outbacks, PIAA 510's, Line-x, Tinted glass, Redline 85+.

Soon to come: Bill K's TC/VB, EZ, DD Stage 1, DiPricol Gauges, RE-0880 and 25-0880, Stan's Headers 4" exhaust, Bilstein shocks, Westin step-bars.
 
All you guys are truly awesome with your help. I did how ever neglected to say I have a 100K bumper to bumper warranty that I don't want to void and I'm afraid if I crack any cases I'll do just that. I was thinking of changing differentials to 4:10 but dealer told me that would void my warranty. So with that in mind does it change anything???.
Originally posted by rcl44@pacbell.net:
I purchased a new 2001, 24V, 2500, 4X4, Auto, to pull a 5th wheel trailer. The dealer talked me out of the model I wanted (3500, 2X, dually, 5 speed) and claimed the one I purchased would do what ever I needed and more. Well the trailer my Wife insisted on weighted in at 10K empty and 12K wet and with our stuff in it. I come to find out that the truck is only rated for around 9. 5 K. Well I went to the dealer and raisedH**l and they still claimed I would have no problem. I bought the trailer and took her on the maiden voyage, up and over mountains similar to the Rockies and back. It seemed to do ok but I would like to add a little extra. I’m thinking of adding a Van Aaken CPC or an EZ which claims 40% increase in horse and torque. This is a stock truck and I don’t want to add a lot of beef but we plan to do an East West Coast turn around in August and I really don’t want any problems. I’m taking a month to do it so I don’t have to push. Does anyone out there know if the CPC or EZ will do as claimed and which would be best for me? I’m new at this diesel thing and can use all the help I can get. This is our retirement vehicle and I hope I didn’t do wrong???? I also plan on adding gauges to monitor her vital signs .
#ad







------------------
2001' 2500 - QC/LB SLT, ISB w/Auto, 4X4, 3. 54 LSD,Tow package, 15k 5-er Hitch, Tow 31 ft 5-er 12K lbs. Jet Black with Gray belly.
 
MikeL... Thanks for answering 24V-DSL's question for me, I really appreciate it. But to add to your description, Bill's smart controller also allows 2nd gear lockup. Which is really nice.


Originally posted by rcl44@pacbell.net:
All you guys are truly awesome with your help. I did how ever neglected to say I have a 100K bumper to bumper warranty that I don't want to void and I'm afraid if I crack any cases I'll do just that.

Rcl44 - I do have to say this and be very bold about it Your Warranty is only as good as your Dealer!!

Here I have Bill K's setup, along with the smart controller and the pacbrake. The pacbrake alone on an automatic voids the entire warranty. . Period!! But thank God I have a good dealer that I take my truck too. They haven't said anything about my pacbrake nor my firm shifting, and believe it or not, my dealer just replaced my fuel sending unit under warranty. So be aware even the EZ/VA can void your warranty.

So do what you think is right. . and always remember that the TDR Crew is always here to help.

Kev
 
Originally posted by 24V-DSL:
Kev... I'm familiar with Bill K's work, but I've never heard/seen any reference to the "smart controller set-up". What are you referring to? Is this a separate mod or just part of his normal TC/VB install?

To answer your question, the Smart Controller is sold separate from the VB and TC. But it is well worth it. Make sure when you go up to see Bill that you have him show you this device and how it works.

Kev
 
rcl44
I have the same truck as you. My concerns are also the same. My new 30' 5th will be here in a couple of weeks.
Also, Where did you get that 5th tail gate?
All Aluminum? How Much? I need one.

Ron

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2001 2500 SLT+ 4X4 Auto Cummins, 3. 54,Quad cab,Short Bed,Camel Leather, White Exterior, Sliding rear window, Camper Special Group, Towing Group,A. R. E cap with rear door, New 30' Cedar creek 5th on its way.
 
rcl44, welcome and nice looking truck. There are two approaches here, and both have been pointed out in this thread. You also expressed concern about voiding the warranty, mainly the extended warranty which you need to READ very carefully to understand what IS covered past the normal warranty.
First approach, you express a need for more power to pull the trailer that is over the quoted factory rating. The VA or the EZ can certainly add more power, but at a price, the transmission.
Secondly, you could add the transmission mods to help the not exactly adequate stock transmission. Just these 2 pieces, the TC and VB alone will make enough difference that you may feel you don't need anymore power.

What you have to decide is do you want more power, knowing that it IS affecting the life of your stock transmission, or do you modify your stock transmission to help ensure it'll give years of service towing your trailer, and possible voiding parts of your warranty.

IMHO, not biased or anything here, but if towing is the primary job for the truck, I'd do the transmission mods. I did the power mods, then the transmission mods, and I like the performance and readily available power while towing they give. Plus knowing that the transmission has been reinforced with upgrades that work.

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Fred Swanson
Co-Owner
Canyon State Components, LLC
www.canyonstatecomponents.com

'00 QC,SB,4x4,Auto,3. 54 w/LSD,Trailer Package, Tow Package, DTT's VB & TC, SPA gauges

[This message has been edited by cscpusher (edited 03-02-2001). ]
 
Hi Sandmann... . I still haven't made my mind (what little there is) up yet but the more I read at TDR from the guys that know the less I worry about the black beast pulling my chariot. She and I will be fine whichever way I decide to go… My truck is also a lease vehicle so I am doubly concerned about warranty. One thing I am learning is there are a lot of us out there who care and are willing to help each other.

I got the tailgate at a local truck only parts store out here in San Diego California. They only deal with trucks from pickup to semi’s and the price was about $389. 00.

Good luck with your truck and rig. Let me know how you make out and I will do the same.

Roger



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2001' 2500 - QC/LB SLT, ISB w/Auto, 4X4, 3. 54 LSD,Tow package, 15k 5-er Hitch, Tow 31 ft 5-er 12K lbs. Jet Black with Gray belly.
 
Did you get his statements in writing? If I had my durothers, I personally would never have purchased an auto. Yeah! OK! I only did it because of the "little woman", because she was also going to be driving it. Here I am 49k mi. later and she has clocked approx 1k miles in it, not to mention she will not even get behind the wheel when it's hooked to the trailer or boat. And the $$$ for the upgrades to the transmission which could have been spent countless other goodies. All things considered, it's still a "nice" truck.

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98. 5 2500 QC,SB W/ camper shell, whitw w/driftwood lower, 2wd,3. 54, loaded w/o leather,chrome Westin step bars, BD tc/vb and pressureloc,w/trans temp,4" BD exhaust from turbo back, firestone airbags, heavy duty pullrite hitch, Bug sheilds, 4x4 type mud flaps front and back, Amsoil bypass & air filter. Dual pyro-boost gauge,pillar mount, PS boost mod and elbow,
VA cpc and fuel pressure gauge, Pac-Brake.
 
IMHO Go with the EZ. It has 3 adjustments for fuel timing, a built in boost module, and it literally takes less then 5 minutes to install.

The main different between the EZ and VA is that the EZ has a built in boost module as where the VA does not. Another good thing about the EZ is that if you don't want to use the timing side of the module, you can unplug it and use just the Boost module. So that you don't set any overboost codes in the ECM.

Other then that as MikeL said. . the VA has been noted to have more bottom end power, as where the EZ's power rolls in really smoothly.

But overall, I honestly would go a different route for extra power. I honestly would Talk to Bill Kondolay and purchase his Torque Converter, Valve body and smart controller setup. Bill's setup will actually deliver your current power to the ground, and give you the ease of being able to use an exhaust brake. Trust me. . this setup is awesome and well worth the money. I currently have the whole setup, and if I had to do everything all over again... I would make sure that Bill's setup was my first investment... honestly!!!!

Hope this helps

Kev
 
rcl44--it's gonna take an extremely sharp
dealer to figure out if you have upgraded your transmission valve body or torque converter if you get them from DTT's as they use original parts and modify them--they're gonna have to disassemble the torque converter to see its inards and peruse the valve body with a fine microscope to see what's up--HIGHLY UNLIKELY--if you get the EZ box just unplug it and you're good to go when you take it to the dealer and then put it back in after--these mods will make your truck run so much better you won't believe it--they are well worth it--get an EGT guage as the minimum guage and you should have a trouble free rig for years to come--chris

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chris sutton
1999 2500 24v qcab longbed 4x4 red sport w/ all the options 'cept plow pkg, 4:10 detroit locker in rear & front ARB,
5" skyjacker lift w/ 35" BFG mud terrains on 16. 5x9. 75 Weld rims, black smittybilt nerf bars, black 3 pc. bug persuader,
black lumber rack, camel leather int. w/ mb quartz spkrs and 8" sub, power edge EZ, DTT vb & tc, mag hy-tec transmission pan,
red magview diff covers front & back & coming soon: big injectors, HX 40 massaged, red L&L ladder bars, turbo temp monitor & SPA guages on "A" pillar,
4" Jardine exhaust, J&L audio stealth sub box under rear seat(2-10"subs) and PE box tweaked--the above is a big fat lie I really own a totally stock RAM
 
rcl44, I know how you feel, let me tell you about my experience. I installed a Banks Stinger Plus at 47K miles. It worked great, lots of power, but shortly after my TC started slipping. My extended warranty refused to fix it because the truck had been modified. The policy stated right on the front that modifications would make the truck ineligible for warranty, this also included snow plowing. They told me my extended warranty was cancelled. They did however pay over $400 for a rental car while they made up thier mind about paying.
I then found this website and after much research drove up to BC and had Bill Kondolay do all his mods. I am glad the warranty refused to fix my TC because the DTT is so much better than the original.
Several months later, being hooked on this site, I installed fuel pressure gauges and discovered that my transfer pump was bad (67K miles). I decided to try the dealer and they replaced the lift pump under warranty (the emissions warranty not the extended warranty). They offered me a rental and said the extended warranty would pay for it. I asked them to check on that and was told that my extended warranty was infact still in effect and had not been canceled. As it turned out I did not need a car, I kept my truck until the pump came in and it only took them an hour to replace it.
It's true that the warranty is only as good as your dealer, and I probably have a better than average dealer, but I would not hesitate to do any modifications again. If I were in the market for a new truck, I would get an auto and immediately get the DTT mods, an exhaust brake, 275s, and some other power enhancement such as Banks or EZ. I am happy with my Banks and the later models are even better.
To sum it up, in my opinion, the pleasure of driving a properly modified truck, outweighs the risk of voiding the warranty. Lifes a risk, go for it. #ad
Tom
PS: I pull a 33ft Cardinal 5th wheel, gross about 19K
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Tom W in Austin Tx 98 24v 2500 Quadcab, auto, 3. 54, lsd, Rhino, white/driftwood, Banks Stinger Plus, 275 injectors, Manix grill, nerf bars , DTT's TC, valvebody, cooler, Mag-hytec trans & diff, Pac brake.

[This message has been edited by Tom W (edited 03-03-2001). ]
 
rcl44,
I would bet your transmission will be ok with an EZ or a VA. The trick is to treat the load like it really is:HEAVY. Dont race your truck when hauling that kind of weight. Get some gauges to monitor your engine and transmission,and follow the maintenance schedule. Dont lug the engine and transmission. As far as which box. I've tried them both, and I believe they are both about the same. The EZ has the built in boost module, and I would bet, that with the milder low end,it would be easier on the transmission. I tow about the same amount of weight as you,and no problems yet.
Big A


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'99 3/4 24 valver Quad,auto,KN stock, westin powder blackpushbar,autometer sportcomp
 
I mostly agree with the other posters... The first upgrade you might consider is Bill K's TC/VB... . this is how the trans should of been from the factory!... As far as a dealer not knowing. . HAHAHA. . as soon as he gets in the truck and puts it in gear. . He doesn't even have to move the truck. . He'll know. . It's a nice solid engagement, and you better keep your foot on the brake!. . The stock TC slips so bad, it feels like a Chevy Poweglide all the way to lockup. . THEN, it starts to pull. . As far as the VA or EZ, I've tried them both... Stick with the EZ, boost module, and adjustability, plus like the other poster said. . It takes longer to get the milk carton to stand on, than it does to install, or remove...
#1 trans
#2 guages
#3 EZ, disable waistgate
#4 injectors
#5 Try not to grin too much, when you pull up next to PSD, or Duramaxipad, pulling a trailer, or unloaded
#6. . Get another VisaCard
#4 injectors



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2001 Quad,4x4,4. 10LS,LB,Loaded enough,stock,mostly... . 65 Chevelle sedan, Hella nice driver, 53 Nash Rambler Convt,1 of 653 built,[not a Metro], GM drivetrain, injection, and auto/od
Specialized FSR PRO Stumpjumper Cannondale F2000, Loaded
MTD Lawn tractor with flames
12' fishin' boat, loaded. .
 
Originally posted by CCahill:
I mostly agree with the other posters... The first upgrade you might consider is Bill K's TC/VB... . this is how the trans should of been from the factory!... As far as a dealer not knowing. . HAHAHA. . as soon as he gets in the truck and puts it in gear. . He doesn't even have to move the truck. . He'll know. . It's a nice solid engagement, and you better keep your foot on the brake!. . The stock TC slips so bad, it feels like a Chevy Poweglide all the way to lockup. . THEN, it starts to pull. . As far as the VA or EZ, I've tried them both... Stick with the EZ, boost module, and adjustability, plus like the other poster said. . It takes longer to get the milk carton to stand on, than it does to install, or remove...
#1 trans
#2 guages
#3 EZ, disable waistgate
#4 injectors
#5 Try not to grin too much, when you pull up next to PSD, or Duramaxipad, pulling a trailer, or unloaded
#6. . Get another VisaCard
#4 injectors

Colin, you replied to an EMIAL a few weeks ago for me. Ditto rel44's post. I sent back the "Power Button" and ordered an EZ Friday. Now I'm confused, will I, should I, get a transmission updrade. I keep reading conflicting posts on transmission upgrades needed for autos with power modules. You advised in you EMAIL, "dealer can "reflash" my putor. #ad
What do you mean? Also do you know anyone in our area that can do a DTT upgrade? Thanks again.


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99 Ram 2500 Ext Cab /Turbo/White/Leer Shell/Long Box / Automatic/K&N Filter/Dyno Sources Inc. "Power Button".
 
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