Valair dual disc clutch for 03 NV5600

[Blakers]

Does anyone have experience with a Valair clutch with an NV5600? My clutch is starting to give me trouble (hard shifting, not releasing 100% all the time), so I want to order a new replacement before it goes. I'm looking at http://valairinc.com/performance/24nv5600.html at part number NMU70NV56DDSN-ORG.



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My truck is basically stock with a van Aaken box. I tow occasionally, but an average day with my truck is stop and go all day long, including up and down steep hills, and sometimes in deep mud or snow. I was able to slip the original clutch while going up hill with the van Aaken on 100%, but always tried to avoid it. After 175,000 the original clutch is starting to go.



Thanks,

Blake

 

[Prairie Dog]

I would try to stay away form dual disk setups if possible - way too many issues. Personally, with that level of added power (similar to mine) I would talk to SBC about using one of their all organic clutches. The Con Ofe will work fine too but the Organic will have nicer engagement properties which is the only thing I don't like about my ConOfe.

 

[AEdelheit]

What issues are there with a twin disk? I ran one for about 50k, a few freinds have them, no issues. At the time I got mine SBC said its better to run a lighter dual then heavy single.

 

[Motorhead]

If you are in stop an go then the Con OFE isn't for you. I have one and while good at holding HP, it would be miserable in constant stop and go. They have a new all organic single disc that holds 425 hp. Wish they had this when I bought mine.

 

[Blakers]

Thanks guys!

From what Valair says, their organic dual disc clutch has the advantages of a single disc organic with the holding power of a more aggressive clutch lining. They say it's a wonderful clutch for towing and makes for very easy backing of trailers, etc. What issues have you had with dual discs Prairie Dog? My 1936 Cletrac E crawler has a dual disc clutch and it works very smoothly and probably still has the original lining.

 

[Blakers]

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I decided to go with this South Bend clutch on the advice of several folks around here who are very happy with it.


SDD 3250-6 Dual Disc Clutch Kit - 00. 5-05. 5 5. 9L NV5600 6sp

http://www.southbendclutch.com/newsdd3250.pdf

$1,200. 00
Sale: $1,164. 00

Add to Cart:




South Bend Clutch Street Dual Disc Clutch Kit.
475-650hp - 1200tq.
00. 5-05. 5 Dodge 24 Valve 5. 9L Cummins 6 Speed NV5600.

Note: This is a Street Dual Disc. This IS NOT a SFI Pulling Clutch.


Model: SDD 3250-6
Shipping Weight: 98lbs
Manufactured by: South Bend Clutch

 

[BDaugherty]

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View attachment 82622



I decided to go with this South Bend clutch on the advice of several folks around here who are very happy with it.

I'm running that exact same clutch. I highly recommend the hydraulic upgrade. My observation is that I can't shift as fast and it can be a little harder to get in gear, but it holds up well to added power and remains very smooth. The "rattle" was nearly nonexistent when it was new. Now that I have some miles on it, it does rattle a LITTLE, but still way way way way way way quieter than the original or competition DD. In the past, I ran a SBC ConOFE on my '01 HO truck. It was near the power level of my current 3rd gen. The stronger single held the power, but you had to be a little more mindful to release the clutch fully before adding full power. The dual disc is much more forgiving and I continue to be happy with mine. I bought mine from Wally at Fastrac Enterprise and would buy from him again if the time came. Good price, great service.

 

[MakeItShake]

Blakers... Did you have any luck with your hard shifting/non-releasing clutch fix? I assume since the thread died that the install took place? And did you get the upgrades hydraulics as BDaugherty mentioned?



I ask because I had issues similar to your original post, but the problem was a leaking slave cylinder on the clutch hydraulics. I almost drove thru the garage wall one eve because the clutch wouldn't fully disengage. Had to kill the engine to stop.



I replaced the hydros (with SBC HD hydros, forward thinking I'd upgrade the clutch later) and have not had a problem in three years/30K miles.



Sam

 

[Regcabguy]

If you are in stop an go then the Con OFE isn't for you. I have one and while good at holding HP, it would be miserable in constant stop and go. They have a new all organic single disc that holds 425 hp. Wish they had this when I bought mine.

Peter talked me out of his dual friction 3250 dd for my needs. 34" tires,Smarty sw#5 and a popup camper load. I don't tow or go in the dunes. I had his new Con OKHD installed. Quite smooth with a bit quicker engagement and a dab higher pedal pressure. Absolutely quiet aside from the gear noise of the G-56. So far,so good. I've punched it in 5th and 6th with no slip.

 

[Prairie Dog]

If you are in stop an go then the Con OFE isn't for you. I have one and while good at holding HP, it would be miserable in constant stop and go. They have a new all organic single disc that holds 425 hp. Wish they had this when I bought mine.

No truer words were ever spoken! I have the same set-up and it plain sucks in stop and go especially with the trailer back there.

 

[Blakers]

Hi Sam, yes, I went with the SDD3250 and am happy with it.

I found out after I pulled the old clutch out that it still had some life left in it, but not a whole lot. My throwout bearing was really bad, yet still not making noise. If I really wanted to do it again on the cheap, I probably could have gotten away with a new disc plate, throwout bearing and hydraulic upgrade and reused the pressure plate. BUT I wanted the advantage of the stronger clutch and didn't want to have to replace it again anytime soon.

The SDD3250 works very smooth with less pedal pressure than the stock clutch. I never hear myself complaining about long stop lights like I used to!

One disadvantage I have perceived since the install is there seems to be a little more vibration transmitted from the engine, through the clutch, and into the drivetrain. It's more load related than rpm related and seems to come on just above 1,000 rpm with a load. I've gotten used to it and it doesn't bother me anymore. I don't know if that is typical of this clutch - part of it might even be in my head

Another disadvantage you will get used to is you can't shift quite as fast as with the stock clutch. And it takes a couple seconds more to get it into gear from a neutral stop. Both of these are caused by more rotating mass of the dual discs and getting them to stop or sync with the next gear. Big trucks have clutch brakes to get the spinning discs and input shaft to stop when putting into gear.

My truck is really a pleasure to drive since I no longer have the problem of getting it into gear. And the clutch works so smoothly and with little leg pressure. I really like it!

Blake

Blakers... Did you have any luck with your hard shifting/non-releasing clutch fix? I assume since the thread died that the install took place? And did you get the upgrades hydraulics as BDaugherty mentioned?

I ask because I had issues similar to your original post, but the problem was a leaking slave cylinder on the clutch hydraulics. I almost drove thru the garage wall one eve because the clutch wouldn't fully disengage. Had to kill the engine to stop.

I replaced the hydros (with SBC HD hydros, forward thinking I'd upgrade the clutch later) and have not had a problem in three years/30K miles.

Sam

 

[MakeItShake]

Glad to hear it worked out well for you!



Thanks for the additional input on the SDD3250 also... I actually glazed my clutch pretty bad last week and have been hunting for a new one since (hence my surfing your OP). I've been looking between the organic dual Valair, SDD3250, or the Haisley Twin Street. Still gathering info right now, so we'll see where she goes.

 

[Blakers]

I'd be happy to answer any more questions you have, or discuss it. One thing I would definitely recommend is to replace your master/slave cylinder with a new adjustable upgrade. I would not reuse the old one.

Blake