Valve adjustment anyone?

[MMeier]

Anyone do their 100k valve adjustment yet? Wondering how you found the valves, loose, tight, just right?

 

[JStieger]

Anyone do their 100k valve adjustment yet? Wondering how you found the valves, loose, tight, just right?

I did mine at 56k a month or so ago when I was into my injectors and they were about 0. 002 loose from the 0. 010 / 0. 020 Intake / Exhaust spec. This is still within the shop manual spec, but I threw all caution into the wind and adjusted mine to a tight 0. 010/0. 020. After I did the first adjustment, I did it again the next day because I'm kind of obsessive/compulsive in case I missed something and because someone wanted pictures, which I posted!



I also witnessed (<--- inside joke) TDR member Rank Ram do his valves on his '05 with ~20k a couple of weeks ago and they were similarly loose.



TDR member Vaughn MacKenzie also found the valves on his now sold '03 to be similarly "out" at low mileage.



Hope this helps!

 

[MMeier]

Guess I had just better plan on doing them then, anyone else?

 

[RankRam]

I also witnessed (<--- inside joke) TDR member Rank Ram do his valves on his '05 with ~20k a couple of weeks ago and they were similarly loose.



Hope this helps!

Yep you were a great witness buddy. :-laf



Actually the 05 only had 14k on it and yes the truck has without any doubt benefited from the valve adjust.



With a new truck, I think if you tow much you should run the valves very soon, say when the truck has it's first 5k on it. If you don't tow I would run the valves at 10k.



I know there was an improvement after the valve adjust with my truck. The truck idles much quieter and is a little more responsive. I plan to adjust mine again at around 25-30k just to see how they are doing. I don't expect them to be out much. It's more to just satisfiying my curiosity.



The other benefit is that you ran the valves and you know they are done right. I got a warm fuzzy feeling for a few days after doing mine :-laf



Julius thanks again for the help.

 

[Bob4x4]

The valves are set by a machine at the factory... ... . I don't find many set right but they are inside the window.



Bob

 

[RankRam]

The valves are set by a machine at the factory... ... . I don't find many set right but they are inside the window.



Bob

Yep and that window is a big one!

 

[MLee]

There has been a lot of talk about this subject here as of late, and the measurements that are found. Is this a cold measurement? In my book it states to have the engine warm not over 140*, this would allow a little looseness. If it is checked cold because of the contraction rate versus being warm. How ever mine is a 12 valve, has things changed?

Marv.

 

[JStieger]

There has been a lot of talk about this subject here as of late, and the measurements that are found. Is this a cold measurement? In my book it states to have the engine warm not over 140*, this would allow a little looseness. If it is checked cold because of the contraction rate versus being warm. How ever mine is a 12 valve, has things changed?

Marv.

Marv-



My shop manual said:



NOTE: To obtain accurate readings, valve lash measurements

AND adjustments should only be performed

when the engine coolant temperature is less

than 60° C (140° F).



I just let it sit overnight and did the valves first thing in the morning.



Any luck on finding those screw adjusters? That would be cool if you could get the 3rd gen adjusters to work on your 12 valve!

 

[DaveK98]

Anyone post some good instructions on how to do this on our 3rd gen engines?



I'm good with tools but anytime I mess with the engine I like to make sure it's done right.

 

[JStieger]

Anyone post some good instructions on how to do this on our 3rd gen engines?



I'm good with tools but anytime I mess with the engine I like to make sure it's done right.

I posted pictures on Page 3 of this post:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136945



Here's the procedure copied from the 2003 shop manual:





STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE LASH

ADJUSTMENT AND VERIFICATION

NOTE: To obtain accurate readings, valve lash measurements

AND adjustments should only be performed

when the engine coolant temperature is less

than 60° C (140° F).

The 24–valve overhead system is a “low-maintenance”

design. Routine adjustments are no longer

necessary, however, measurement should still take

place when trouble-shooting performance problems,

or upon completion of a repair that includes removal

and installation of the valve train components or

injectors.

(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.

(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -

ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD

COVER(S) - REMOVAL).

(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B,

rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to

12:00 o’clock position.

(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are

loose, continue to next step.

(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers

are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.

(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can

be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE

1–2–4 / EXHAUST 1–3–5. Measure the valve lash by

inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm

socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE

LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If

the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/

resetting is not necessary. If measurement

finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting

is required.

(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the

lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw

until the desired lash is obtained:

² INTAKE 0. 254 mm (0. 010 in. )

² EXHAUST 0. 508 mm (0. 020 in. ) Tighten the

lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs. ) and re-check the valve

lash.

(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the

crankshaft one revolution (360°) to align the

damper TDC mark to the 12 o’clock position.

(7) With the engine in this position, valve lash can

be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE

3–5–6 / EXHAUST 2–4–6. Use the same method as

above for determining whether adjustment is necessary,

and adjust those that are found to be outside of

the limits.

(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -

ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD

COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).

(9) Connect the battery negative cables.



VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART

INTAKE:

0. 152 mm ( 0. 006 in. ) MIN. 0. 381 mm (0. 015 in. ) MAX.

EXHAUST:

0. 381 mm (0. 015 in. ) MIN. 0. 762 mm (0. 030 in. ) MAX.



note:

If measured valve lash falls within these

specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.

Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse

affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or

level of engine noise.

 

[Burner]

WOW, what a great writ! Oo. I'll tip my hat to ya on that one!



. . the nick is on the ID, yes?

 

[MMeier]

WOW, what a great writ! Oo. I'll tip my hat to ya on that one!



. . the nick is on the ID, yes?

Yes JS, thanks for posting that!!

 

[sag2]

Be careful if you have an 06. Exhaust valves were changed to . 026. There is a red caution sticker on the valve cover.

 

[Burner]

Why the change?

 

[JStieger]

Why the change?

Could it be because they run hotter for emissions (EPA) sake???

 

[Burner]

..... Donno? I thought that a 'cooler' Diesel was the objective? Maybe I'm wrong but I thought the third pulse was to keep the exhaust cool? Hotter motor drives NOx up, right?

 

[nickleinonen]

..... Donno? I thought that a 'cooler' Diesel was the objective? Maybe I'm wrong but I thought the third pulse was to keep the exhaust cool? Hotter motor drives NOx up, right?

the 3rd pulse keeps the exhaust hot. the retarded timing keeps the combustion under temps lower. it needs the exhaust hot to keep the reduction catalist at operating tempratures [also why the 600 engines have hotter exhaust tempratures than the 555's]

 

[rholcom2]

Thanks for the instructions. Mine has 36000 on it, might just check it out.

 

[JStieger]

WOW, what a great writ! Oo. I'll tip my hat to ya on that one!



. . the nick is on the ID, yes?

Burner-



Just edited my post seeing that you have an '06. The instructions/specs were from my 2003 shop manual CD.



Also, the nick, while hard to see in the picture, is on the OD of the end of the tube. The nick crosses the "sealing steps" machined on the end of the tube.

 

[jwduke]

WOW, what a great writ! Oo. I'll tip my hat to ya on that one!



. . the nick is on the ID, yes?

VERY good post!