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Valve Body Upgrade Opinions

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easiest way to remove APPS cable from transmission?

Transmission line fitting question

Hi all
ok so ive decided to keep my truck for as long as possible. 2005, 3500, dually, 8ft bed, 48re, 4wd. 90K miles.

I haul 14 round rolls on a 20k GVWR trailer 5 times a year. That's 14K lbs for the hay and another 4.5K for the trailer. I haul other lighter loads during the year as well. As evidenced by the mileage i don't use the truck as my primary vehicle.

So I've been thinking about a valve body upgrade to extend the life of the stock transmission. Its all stock except for these items:

DNJ-DCF1 - governor pressure solenoid kit with the newer "gold" transducer
48RE 2-3 Accum Piston Kit Sonnax
HD Borg & Gold Upgrade Kit 2000+
3-4 Accumulator Spring
Goerand transmission pan - I broke the hex driver in my mag-hytec pan.

So does a valve body upgrade actually make your transmission run cooler? I view that as the most important thing to extend life as heat kills. Is there any data to support any manufactures claims to the fact?

not looking to start a war on who has the best valve body upgrade, looking for data to backup claims.

Any help would be appreciated

tjm
 
I have a Goerend VB and the biggest advantage is it flows oil through the cooler in park where stock will only flow in Drive or natural. I feel the VB and TC being matched to each other is critical for both performance and temperature control.

I also installed a Mishimoto trans cooler in place of the stock one and I highly recommend it, alot larger.
 
I have a Goerend VB and the biggest advantage is it flows oil through the cooler in park where stock will only flow in Drive or natural. I feel the VB and TC being matched to each other is critical for both performance and temperature control.

I also installed a Mishimoto trans cooler in place of the stock one and I highly recommend it, alot larger.

So I've seen pictures of the valve rods with a hole in the center that enable oil flow. The diameter is so small I question whether they really actually provide much of a cooling affect? Not sure I have the funds for a TC...
 
So I've seen pictures of the valve rods with a hole in the center that enable oil flow. The diameter is so small I question whether they really actually provide much of a cooling affect? Not sure I have the funds for a TC...

I did not build my trans myself so did not see the VB but yes I do believe it helps a lot after a long windy grade where the TC cant lock if you need to stop it can at least flow some oil through the cooler when in park, my trans runs really cool I never had heat issues since it was built but the piece of mind knowing I dont have to park in neutral if I it is getting warm is nice, obviously only helpful when parked though. I dont know if a VB upgrade would be worth it with a stock TC.
 
Good pointers guys! The mushimoto would seem to be a first step. Primarily because you can inspect/change the thermostat, secondly - better cooling. I think I'll do that first given i just changed my fluid and adjusted my bands. At 6k miles/year it will be 5 years before my next transmission service!
 
I have a Goerend VB and the biggest advantage is it flows oil through the cooler in park where stock will only flow in Drive or natural. I feel the VB and TC being matched to each other is critical for both performance and temperature control.

I also installed a Mishimoto trans cooler in place of the stock one and I highly recommend it, alot larger.
So with the Mishimoto you simply bypass the stock transmission cooler in the radiator? Where did you mount the transmission cooler?
 
So with the Mishimoto you simply bypass the stock transmission cooler in the radiator? Where did you mount the transmission cooler?

As TJM said it replaces the stock cooler and I like that better then adding another cooler under the chassis where it could be easily damaged.
 
I've made 4 trips hauling Hay this month of August/September in Texas. The last trip the temp was 95 outside, 14 round rolls @1k each+5K trailer = 20K load. driving at 60MPH in 3rd gear transmission temp was hovering around 195. On to the high way at 70 MPH in OD transmission temp was hovering around 205.
 
With 90K I would leave it alone and save up for a rebuild. My 48RE got weak around 96K with occasional towing moderate to heavy. Had a heavy 40' 5th wheel and I pulled a PJ flat deck that I loaded down like you. The best improvement comes from a good torque converter. I can idle around my hard pack areas with heavy trailers with both of my auto trucks, one is a Goerends Stage 1 and the other is a DTT stage 2 I guess, it has the billet input and a single disc. The DTT is very strong right off idle, the Goerends triple disc with the stage 1 VB is less aggressive. The Goerends shifts a little different, it holds the lower gears much longer than my old DTT build. I like it better for towing. Temps stayed the same for me, but I didn't add any additional cooling. The ATF will eventually get up to engine coolant temp range anyway when towing. Pulling heavy I see 190's in traffic, once I get rolling at 65 mph it will stay in the 180's. I have the 4.10's and to use OD I need 2000 or better rpm to keep things happy.
 
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Yeah i have 93K on my truck. only haul this heavy 5 times a yr in summer. and i have the 60HP tow mod from MM3
 
So with the Mishimoto you simply bypass the stock transmission cooler in the radiator? Where did you mount the transmission cooler?

There is no stock transmission cooler in the radiator of our diesel trucks.
It's external in-between the radiator and the charge air cooler.
 
I was. just a readout of temps with the Mishimoto installed and under the most severe duty i can throw at it
 
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