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Valve covers

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I remember a post a while back about replacing the Dodge valve cover with a Cummin's valve cover. Well, since Cummins and Case/IH developed this engine together, and each builds the engine in their own plants, I went to the Case web site. It looks like the 5. 9L that Case produces still uses the individual covers (12v style). But... The MX Series Magnum tractors use an 8. 3L diesel, which, from the picture, uses a one piece valve cover like the ISB.
Now the Question, will this Case/IH valve cover from the 8. 3L fit our ISB? It would make sense that it might if it uses the same block, but has a different bore/stroke. I can't figure out how to find the specs, but hope one of the members has access to these spec. s. as I would love to shock people by showing them the new 8. 3L Dodge Cummins!

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I dont think they will fit the ISB since the ISB is based on ther B series engine and the 8. 3 is a C series (I think)

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2001 Dodge ETH,DEE 4x4 short box, quad cab. Dark Garnet Pearl Coat.
 
I just bought a Cummins valve cover from Cummins West and was surprised to find the filler is on the back of the one I brought home! It must be for a motorhome or something. Just a heads up.
 
When ordering a Cummins valve cover directly from Cummins you WILL need your engine serial number so they can order the correct one for your application. The (NW)punk just added one of the red Cummins valve covers to his '01 Ram. It looks real sharp... almost as cool as my '00 Dodge/Cummins (black) valve cover. #ad
Couldn't live without the Rams head on it! #ad


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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (BLACK) SLT Sport, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, Glasstite Vision II canopy, Line-X spray in liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Mopar tow hooks, Reese Titan V hitch, Jordan Research Ultima 2020 trailer brake controller, VDO Vision gauges, '00 Sport grille, '00 Sport headlights with PIAA Super White 9007/9004 bulbs, 4-2-7+4 Brite-Box, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Bosch 275 hp. injectors, VA CPC, DD Boost Module, Banks Stinger wastegate actuator, BLACK '00 valve cover, Banks Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system, BD LV V-10/Cummins hybrid TC and valve body, BD modified transmission front pump and PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus many other trick modifications
 
HVAC,

There are 6 different valve covers for the ISB. Some have the oil filler in the back, and some have it in the front. Also, some use stud-style bolts, rather than the standard bolts on our Rams. The valve cover I bought in April has the oil filler in the front, with the standard fastening equipment. Mine is red, but it is also available in black.

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Evan A. Beck "NW PUNK"
Prez, NW BOMBers

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'01 2500HD 4x2 QC, 139" WB, 6-speed, ETH, SLT... yadda yadda yadda... K&N, 3" "PIPE BOMB", 6-way turn signal conversion, aux. backup lights, Line-X, Mopar rubber mats, Cummins badging, SPA Technique boost & pyro gauges. 6,461 miles since 4/26/00! Look for me on AOL as “Beck2500!”
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Check out NW PUNK for more info! #ad
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Thanks for the info, sounds like the CASE/IH is a C series, and won't work, maybe they will come out w/ their version of the ISB 5. 9 soon. At least now I know what to look for when getting new covers.
Evan, I agree, how much for the new covers, they look great in your pictures!
 
craig s,

The Cummins 8. 3C engine doesn't use the same block as the ISB. The C Series has replaceable wet cylinder liners where the 5. 9 is parent bore. The cylinder head is also different.

Bill

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Y2K 3500QC, 6 Speed, 4. 10, SLT+, Camper & Tow Pkg. , Westin Chrome Nerf Bars, Mopar Flaps, Reese 20K Hitch, V-A CPC, EGT & Boost Gauges, RPM 45 Gallon Aux. Fuel Tank, Highway Products 5th Wheel Toolbox, ECM Controlled PacBrake, Painless Wiring Kit, Mag-Hytec Diff. Cover, 80% Towing Hitchhiker II 31', 2 slideouts, 19,750 GCW
 
dmurdock & Craig S, the Cummins replacement valve cover for the ISB is $86. (price as of 12/99 @ Cummins NW/Renton, WA).
 
Look even better BLACK! (BLACK Cummins valve cover, BLACK Ram) #ad
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[This message has been edited by John (edited 08-01-2000). ]
 
If you really want to go insane #ad
- buy a new cover from Cummins ($86 was what I paid too), then spend 60-65 hours stripping off the paint and polishing it to a high shine like I did! (pics below) I'd never do it again as it was way too much work but boy it sure does look awesome!! #ad
I'm going to polish the intake horn too, but it will be easy as it's all flat surfaces with no recessed areas you have to get to.

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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR, Chapter Forums Moderator
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, Prime-loc, SW fuel pressure gauge, boost & pyro gauges, TST Powermax, muffler eliminator, polished valve cover, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, Mag Hy-tec rear diff cover, Permatech liner, Grizzly SS nerf bars, Stull SS grill & bumper inserts, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's


[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 08-01-2000). ]
 
Nice job Steve! I noticed the trick polish job on a pic you posted about a month or so ago. Did you clear coat it? Also, I'm not sure the intake runner will polish up the same way the valve cover did. The valve cover is die cast whereas, I suspect the intake runner is sand cast. Die cast aluminum never polishes as brightly as sand cast aluminum due to the amount of silicon used in aluminum for the die casting process. Let us know how it turns out.
 
It's not clear coated right now. I did put a clear coat on it and then like an idiot decided to make sure the inside of the valve cover was totally clean (no left over abrasives) and used brake cleaner (told you I was an idiot) and some of it got through the holes and messed up the clear. I just stripped it off and put it on the truck because I wanted it on there for the Hell, MI event. I'm going to take it back off this winter and finish the polishing (the inside of the letters aren't done to my satisfaction - but I was SICK of polishing!) and then clear coat it before putting it back on. Also, after reading the clear coat directions they say it takes 30 days before you get the full heat resistance out of it! I thought the valve cover was sand cast as well given the texture of the majority of it - that was the biggest job, getting rid of all the casting roughness. So are you saying you think the intake horn will be brighter or darker? I used products from eastwood company to do mine. I started with their 150 grit greaseless compound to smooth out the rough casting, then used tripoli to polish it, then white rouge to bring out the color. This was the first time I've ever polished anything so I'm definately a newbie at it!

-Steve


[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 08-01-2000). ]
 
Steve, one thing you may want to consider, after you get your valve cover to pass your stringent standards, have it clear powder coated. That would be the most durable although, it may not appear to be quite as clear or bright as some of the other automotive clear coats. On the flip side, the clear powder coating will stay on the polished surface better... the polished surface provides extremely poor adhesion qualities. One other option would be to clear anodize it although, you would have to determine with ABSOLUTE CERTAINTY whether it is die or sand cast. If the component is die cast DON'T ANODIZE IT! The finish WILL appear blotched and/or clouded.

As to the intake manifold runner, I ONLY SUSPECT that it is a sand casting... I could be wrong. Another thing that supported my theory was the way it drilled and tapped when adding my boost gauge. I've witnessed an extremely wide variation of quality among intake runners on all the different ISBs. If the intake runner is a sand casting (and the valve cover is a die casting... as I suspect), you could reasonably assume that you will achieve a different finish brightness. That's OK though, just tell everyone that your valve cover is a limited version, made of titanium. LOL

Several months ago after I first saw the new Banks intake runner (for the 24v Powerpack), I was ready to order one (even though one would be hard pressed to see any performance gain) however, judging from your pic, I see we are both in the same boat. I also have a Prime-Loc and BD pressure solenoids (exhaust brake and PressureLoc) mounted in the way. I wish Banks would have mounting provisions for those of us that have added other accessories in that region.

Steve, could you e-mail me several pics of your valve cover/engine compartment? I would like to get a better look at it (i. e. enlarge it). Thanks. John

[This message has been edited by John (edited 08-01-2000). ]
 
Does anyone have a part number for that red Cummins valve cover with the oil filler in the front?

John, I didn't know Banks had a new intake for the ISB. Do you have pics (it looks like their web site hasn't been updated since about 1995)? Is it like the twin-horn for the 12-valve?
 
Steve, did you think about getting the cover chromed? Of, course, I don't really know if you can do that to aluminum or not. That would also eliminate the need for a lot of the fine pollishing that you did. I really like the look of the chrome covers for the 12V engines, but the 24V covers are too flat and boxy. Maybe a mirrored chrome finish would look better. Just my $. 02.
 
The Cummins chrome kit for the 12 valve engines included the air intake and valve covers, analogous to the 24 valve stuff (aluminum). I cleaned the paint off this stuff and more, and used a wire wheel in my slag grinder to buff the air intake. It came out pebbly finished but glossy. I used fine dishwashing type green Scotchbrite on the valve covers to get a sort of buffed finish on them. I used the finest steel wool to get a fairly shiny finish on the cover that was used over the 6 valve covers. Steve, that valve cover sure looks nice, and it is a labor of love that cannot be duplicated with just a few $. I can appreciate it. Lots of folks have seen my "undervalved" [yeah, I gotta be PC since I am trespassing on this forum #ad
] engine with paint removed from almost all the aluminum stuff and the cad plated fuel lines. Almost no one has bothered to comment, so I doubt they realize how much work was involved to get the "look" I wanted.
 
jwgary, I don't think you can chrome aluminum but I may be wrong. However even if you could there are a couple of problems with that idea. First is that chrome by my understanding holds in more heat and in the case of the 24v cover that cover is directly covering the entire head. Second is that the majority of the work I had to do would still need to be done, only about 2 hours of the labor was spent doing the actual polishing (the tripoli and rouge) - the rest of the time was spent smoothing the surface which you'd need to do if you wanted the chrome to look good too. I've seen the black valve cover however now and it's smooth (at least with the paint on) so that might eliminate a lot of the work. I also prefer the look of polished aluminum over chrome personally - I think it looks classier.

Joe, if you want to get rid of the pebbly finish on the air intake the greaseless compounds from eastwood work great for that. You simply use a spiral bound buff (I used 6" buffs on a 1/2 hp motor) and apply the compound to it just like a polish. It works like a light grinding wheel. Thanks for the complements on my cover! Do you have pics of your engine compartment that you could email me? I'd love to see it!

-Steve
 
JD... We old GEEZERS like the ANTIQUE and VINTAGE iron. . I think the 12 valve fall into this class... hehe. . please post several pictures of yourn. . some of us would like a look as we have not had a chance to meet ya yet. .

Steve more pictures different angles for detail... GREAT look !!

Gary
 
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