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Valve lash adjustment results

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I know these new engines only require valve lash adjustment every 100,000 miles. However, after reading several posts about guys doing the job prior to the recommendation and how beneficial the results have been I decided to do it early (87,000 miles). I'm REALLY glad I took the time! I cant tell you how much quieter my truck is at idle now. I had several knocks that have disapeared, and the truck sounds new again.

EVERY intake valve lash measured outside the max specifications, and the exhaust were all on the high side but still within the "no adjustment necessary" range. I took the time to record all the starting measurements so you could see how my truck was running prior to the "recommended interval" for adjustment.



Intake range: . 006 min - . 015 max

1- . 018 in.

2- . 020 in.

3- . 018 in.

4- . 017 in.

5- . 018 in.

6- . 017 in.



Exhaust range: . 015min - . 030 max

1- . 024 in.

2- . 026 in.

3- . 024 in.

4- . 030 in.

5- . 027 in.

6- . 030 in.



I set my intake to . 010 in. and exhaust to . 020 in.



If you are thinking about holding out and not getting a valve lash adjustment until 100,000 miles... dont do it. Its a bunch of BS saying its a "low maintenance" head. Just do it, its worth getting rid of the knocks and having that new truck sound back!



Just thought you guys might like to know...
 
Great - did you do yours stone cold?



I guess I'll have to break down and do mine next Spring - don't use the truck too much thru the Winter months - 55K miles or so on mine...
 
140 degrees or less is the temp requirement for adjustment. The first adjustment is the most important one. Most anybody can do a better job than the machine at the factory. I have had several 06's that were shipped so loose a pushrod came all the way out of the rocker and bent.



Bob
 
Mine has a rocker tick in it, can someone local to me come help me or show me how to do it? I don't trust the dealer. I'll pay $$$ for good help. Maybe throw in some steaks n beer?? Anyone up near the Santa Clarita area that can help me?
 
TSPowell,

did you make sure every valve was on the back side of the cam, or just do the two position setting where you get 3 cylinders at a time? The latter makes me a bit nervous.
 
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Mine has a rocker tick in it, can someone local to me come help me or show me how to do it? I don't trust the dealer. I'll pay $$$ for good help. Maybe throw in some steaks n beer?? Anyone up near the Santa Clarita area that can help me?



We are going to have a SoCRR's wrench day in the not to distant future... ... ... better start stocking up on the beer now-there will be many thirsty advisors :-laf



Bob
 
I got a 3 car garage, air compressor and basic tools, tell me what I need to get and who drinks what!
 
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TSPowell,



did you make sure every valve was on the back side of the cam, or just do the two position setting where you get 3 cylinders at a time? The latter makes me a bit nervous.



I just did the two position setting. Also for those of you who are thinking of purchasing the crankshaft barring tool to rotate the engine... ... don't waste your money. Just put a breaker bar on a dampener bolt.
 
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I especially like the quote in the service manual/owner's manual that says valves do not need adjustment prior the the set specified time and that adjusting them earlier will have no effect on noise, mileage or performance.



Whatever. Did mine at 40k and the engine got quiet and mileage went up too. #6 cylinder is your friend. :-laf
 
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One thing to consider, especially with moded trucks is to run the exhaust valves . 025" -. 030" rather than the tight end because the only chance the valve has to cool any is when it is on the seat.



Stands to reason the exhaust valve might run a little cooler set at . 030" vs . 015"
 
One thing to consider, especially with moded trucks is to run the exhaust valves . 025" -. 030" rather than the tight end because the only chance the valve has to cool any is when it is on the seat.



Stands to reason the exhaust valve might run a little cooler set at . 030" vs . 015"



Thanks for the info. I think the 06's are supposed to be a little looser too. I recall seeing . 026 as the ideal exhaust valve lash.
 
Mine has a rocker tick in it, can someone local to me come help me or show me how to do it? I don't trust the dealer. I'll pay $$$ for good help. Maybe throw in some steaks n beer?? Anyone up near the Santa Clarita area that can help me?

My Ram is due for a valve lash check as well. Let me know when it is on and I can bring drinks and some of my tools as well, as long as I am off. I am up and over the hill in Saugus, near Bouquet Cnyn. and Plum Cnyn. Just post a good day for you and we will see what we can do, I have different days off each week so let us fellow TDRers know. :-laf
 
If you guys in Santa Clarita are setting up a day for wrenching let me know and I'll try to be there too. I use to turn wrenches many years ago and setting valve lash isn't really a difficult thing to do. I too can bring beer from Castaic.
 
One thing to consider, especially with moded trucks is to run the exhaust valves . 025" -. 030" rather than the tight end because the only chance the valve has to cool any is when it is on the seat.



Stands to reason the exhaust valve might run a little cooler set at . 030" vs . 015"



installing a shorter duration camshaft would effectively do the same thing



but no one does that...



do they?
 
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I think we need to see a write up on the procedure in the next TDR magazineOo. Oo.













ps. If already there could someone tell me the mag number. :-laf
 
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