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Voltage and charging problem

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Well perhaps. In my truck the voltage was spiking up and down from 8volts to 18volts, and boiling my passengers side battery. IF it was the crossover only I wouldn’t have had a voltage spike. I’m all ears friend, educate me on the proper fix.
 
And no, I didn’t think it would boil only 1. However what I do know is the IPM is most likely the culprit. With issues at fuses 11 & 13, FCM power feed. You’re assuming every IPM in a 3rd Gen is at 100%. These 3rd Gens all have the ICM corrosion issue, and they’re getting old. You guys can spank me all you want. Doesn’t hurt my feelings.
 
The proper way is to check the cross over wire for resistance. If you measure any voltage drop from passenger battery to driver battery while the engine is running then this wire or the driverside has a bad ground connection.
 
Alright. I’ll check that again, because I honestly can’t remember if I had a difference in voltage. I do know that at the alternator I was getting 8 to 18 volts. Let the Group Spanking begin.... *snort*
I hope you guys have a good Sense of Humor:)
 
Many of this cross over wires failed in the last couple years, mine included.
Looking good from the outside but high resistance gave me a voltage drop of around 1 Volt under Load.
 
With these Values together with the ones you measure yourself it should be not a big thing to diagnose the system.
You can also cross measure all the ground connections, one on each side of the engine block and several other running to body and frame.
The possibility is high that you'll find at least one that isn't in shape.
 
mine did the same thing. it made me a little crazy. at 1 point it was reading 29 volts at the pass . side battery. the new battery was almost cooked before i shut it down, and replaced the cable.i still do not see how one bat. can be at 12volts and 2ed one at 29 volts at the same time?
 
Well I Don’t either. But electric issues aren’t my forte’. I’m going to check my crossover for internal corrosion, because the ends are fine. I did an external regulator to solve my issue. Granted, my Power Distribution Module needs to be replaced. I will keep you guys posted on what I find and testing with Witech. Could be battery clamps on the ends because they’re not stock(too bad I don’t smelt lead). I’ll let you know :)
 
The system reads from drivers side battery and charges on passenger side battery. A bad crossover could do that if driver’s side reads low because the computer will just keep charging on passenger side. I understood that. My point was ultimately if you have an aging PDM with a corroded board, and we have a whole lot of older trucks now, this problem can also occur. I will post what I find.
 
The system reads from drivers side battery and charges on passenger side battery. A bad crossover could do that if driver’s side reads low because the computer will just keep charging on passenger side. I understood that. My point was ultimately if you have an aging PDM with a corroded board, and we have a whole lot of older trucks now, this problem can also occur. I will post what I find.

Correct, but then you cook either both batterys or non of them.
 
Here’s what I found; had a bad ground on the engine block. So, I fixed that and put the charging system back to factory. The external voltage regulator created a few issues once I started checking a few other things. Poor fuel pressure regulator performance, poor injector performance and I also had pulsing in my electrics and 7.94 volts shorted to the frame. Thank you for your honesty:)
 
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