Voltage Regulator Failure

[EDankievitch]

Just thought I'd drop in here...
I was getting the same messages at start up. Check the Batts and they show good. Then on the first Cold morning I couldn't get it to start, was cranking really slow. My truck is a 2013 and it was Nov 2018 so New Batts were ordered. When I removed the factory Non serviceable Batts I found them to be almost empty of electrolyte. Bone dry. Now I had the Alt burn up two years ago, first recall on the alt came in the mail a month to that day later. Yes Ram sent me a check for my trouble after the recall parts came available. But I think when my alt burned up it damaged the batts?
What I still don't quite understand is how Ram said they were good when in fact they were very bad.
That said I really doubt your voltage reg is bad, Unless your alt is one of the ones involved in the recall. I'll put money on it your batts are dry as mine were.
Back in Nov when I was shopping for Batts I had found Rock auto had the best price on the AMG type batts. they beat everyone.

 

[Wayne M.]

ED, batts just don’t go dry. Overcharging causes batteries to boil out. Not debating the reason for that, but that’s the bottom line. My ‘14 Durango I believe started boiling it’s battery- under the seat. It was also showing 15V on the dash almost all the time. I watched it for a while, and a couple of lazy cranks, being 4.5 years old, and a 2200 mile trip coming up made me change it. I put a Advance gold AGM (that I got a great deal on) made the dash voltage stay at 14. Now I’ll have to watch for more boiling.
FCA better get its act together!!

 

[TCDiesel]

Here's the one I buy , its 7.5W ,thats its lowest charging, its running charge is 12-14W. It just sits on the dash. I made My own leads and quick (Cab) disconnect... the Plug 12V won't work in 4Gen Rams.

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[Bob4x4]

What dealer are you using?
If you have the dealer test the batteries I am guessing they will find at least one if not both batteries have failed.

 

[RVTRKN]

So the UV protection built into the windshield still allows it to charge, also should you have an overcharge protection on it?

Here's the one I buy , its 7.5W ,thats its lowest charging, its running charge is 12-14W. It just sits on the dash. I made My own leads and quick (Cab) disconnect... the Plug 12V won't work in 4Gen Rams.

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I live in Vegas, and the sun is powerful here.

 

[TCDiesel]

[Reverse Protection] The solar charger will not damage or over charge your battery, similarly, built-in blocking diode prevents reverse discharge, make sure no drain of your battery. .
We have the 18w version on our trailer Dumps, No problems to current.

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[RollTide1126]

Did you test them individually with the crossover cable disconnected. Otherwise you will get an inaccurate reading. 12.3 volts is only about 50% charged, if your readings are with the batteries connected it's possible one is TU and you are only seeing voltage from the good one.

I tested them myself and discovered the passenger side battery was not taking a charge. I replaced both batteries and message no longer appears and I’m getting a good charge to both. Thanks for all your help!

 

[EDankievitch]

I think when my alt burned up it damaged one or both of my batts, internal small short? The truck was over charging as a result. What annoys me is my local friendly dealer's service shop had "tested" the batts a few times and kept insisting they were good. New batts and No issues.

 

[Wayne M.]

I think when my alt burned up it damaged one or both of my batts, internal small short? The truck was over charging as a result. What annoys me is my local friendly dealer's service shop had "tested" the batts a few times and kept insisting they were good. New batts and No issues.

Yes and got paid a couple of tenths to do something else. I don’t blame th “techs” (I hate that term) I blame the timed labor system that causes guys to not strive.

 

[RollTide1126]

What dealer are you using?
If you have the dealer test the batteries I am guessing they will find at least one if not both batteries have failed.

What dealer are you using?
If you have the dealer test the batteries I am guessing they will find at least one if not both batteries have failed.

I tested them myself and disconnected the crossover cable as suggested by TDR member Edankievitch. I should have tested them myself originally, but while I was out and about that’s when I swung by the auto parts store figuring I needed batteries so I had them do it.

 

[DavidC]

The age old saying "If you want something done right, do it yourself". That applies to most of us here.

 

[Ozymandias]

I tested them myself and discovered the passenger side battery was not taking a charge. I replaced both batteries and message no longer appears and I’m getting a good charge to both. Thanks for all your help!

Ask your dealer anyways for the update that TC suggested, these nowadays Trucks need the updates to work properly.

 

[sag2]

ED, batts just don’t go dry. Overcharging causes batteries to boil out. Not debating the reason for that, but that’s the bottom line. My ‘14 Durango I believe started boiling it’s battery- under the seat. It was also showing 15V on the dash almost all the time. I watched it for a while, and a couple of lazy cranks, being 4.5 years old, and a 2200 mile trip coming up made me change it. I put a Advance gold AGM (that I got a great deal on) made the dash voltage stay at 14. Now I’ll have to watch for more boiling.
FCA better get its act together!!

Your Durango already had an AGM battery in it. No manufacturer would put a lead acid battery in the passenger compartment.