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Walbro Pump

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Valvolene Premium Blue Extreme

Which digital panel all in one gauges is the best.

Walbro 392 Pump, install kit, & Fleetguard strainer went in the mail today. Have a few misc. parts that I should be receiving hopefully by Friday (Secret Squirrel Stuff) . With any luck, I should be "Walbroized" by the end of the weekend!



Clay :D
 
klaybus said:
Walbro 392 Pump, install kit, & Fleetguard strainer went in the mail today. Have a few misc. parts that I should be receiving hopefully by Friday (Secret Squirrel Stuff) . With any luck, I should be "Walbroized" by the end of the weekend!



Clay :D



Secret Squirrel Stuff? DO TELL!!!! I wouldnt mind messing with my walbro some more :-laf



I get a little joy from making it work harded and still holding 30psi :D
 
Tomeygun said:
Secret Squirrel Stuff? DO TELL!!!! I wouldnt mind messing with my walbro some more :-laf



I get a little joy from making it work harded and still holding 30psi :D



I'll let the cat out of the bag... . When she's purring!



Clay :-laf
 
Tomeygun said:
My FP road to where I am now:



Stock:

Obviously sucks - gotta go!



Then to a DPP 95 "Fass2" pump only :

Good in the beginning, held 20psi for quite a while, then it ate a few brushes (keep in mind this has been fixed with newer units). Some new brushes in and all was good... . Until I started to bump the HP up. It started to get gawd-awful loud, and some dyno testing showed at 500hp it would draw from 21psi down to less then 8psi at full rpm.



So then comes the DPP 150 "Fass2" pump only:

At first is was SUPER quiet, that lasted about one month. The HP felt about the same, maybe a little more on top end due to holding more PSI to the CP3 inlet... Some further dyno testing showed no increase in power over the 95gph unit, and I could still pull the 150 down to 13psi from 21psi.



In comes the Walbro GL-392:

2 trys at the shims and I am sitting on 30 psi to the CP3 inlet. The install? Super simple. I have not a chance to the get exact direct comparisons on the dyno, but the truck FEELS at least 20-30 hp more on top end.

The main thing is the lack of the noise, I mean less than a church mouse - Seriously qiuet, and I really like that. As well I like that I can carry a $120 extra pump and swap it in on the side of the road in about 5 minutes...



I loved my DPP FASS2 fuel pumps, But I'll be keeping my walbro from now on.





You will not see any HP Gain and if you do its because you had a bad LP.

I know this I tested the Preporator 135A and the Air Dog and we did not see any HP gain, So if you do you are kidding your self :-laf :-laf

We dynoed two trucks and no HP gain with the 135A. My psi is 14 and towing a toy box up a pass it will pull down to 12psi empty it will not pull down on wot.

Can any one tell me the Volume it puts out :confused: Not psi.

Some one needs to bench test one I would, but got turn down :eek:

Keep posting your Results here. :D
 
dsherman said:
You will not see any HP Gain and if you do its because you had a bad LP.

I know this I tested the Preporator 135A and the Air Dog and we did not see any HP gain, So if you do you are kidding your self :-laf :-laf

We dynoed two trucks and no HP gain with the 135A. My psi is 14 and towing a toy box up a pass it will pull down to 12psi empty it will not pull down on wot.

Can any one tell me the Volume it puts out :confused: Not psi.

Some one needs to bench test one I would, but got turn down :eek:

Keep posting your Results here. :D

Tomeygun is referring to the fact that the modded cp3 need to have around 30 psi at the inlet to maintain proper rail pressure. When the pressure continues to drop at WOT the power curve drops. He has already proven that on the dyno. The HP gain he is referring to is from the Walbro being able to maintain the required inlet pressure.



Not being smart, but as for benchtesting, what's the point? If you read the entire thread you would have seen where I posted that the Walbro is only rated around 90 GPH. The funny thing its it is able to feed my truck as well as some of the "so called 150 GPH" pumps.
 
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I just installed my Walbro System from Glacier Diesel today. Great instructions, install went smooth, mounted the pump on the inside of the transmission cross member, good protection and easier to drill than the frame.



As far as the push lock fittings, a hair dryer and a small amount of lubricant works fantastic.



Test drive, right off the bat I noticed my CP3 is quieter, the rattle is practically non existent, unless I turn my TST way up (7/5).



Congratulations Richard!!! Nice Kit. Jess
 
Pump installed with the Fleetguard strainer. I bought my pump from Glacier but went with a mechanical regulator instead of the bypass valve & now seem to have a problem. Does anyone know exactly how that bypass valve works vs a regulator? I have the regulator dialed in at 16 psi & works great at doing that but under HARD HEAVY throttle I can pull the pressure down to about 8 psi..... After a few seconds the pump seems to catch up & the pressure jumps back up to 13-14 psi but. ..... What about the low psi drop under heavy throttle?

I've read other posts where guys say they can't pull it down below 13 PERIOD! I'm guessing it's the regulator vs the bypass valve. Does anyone know?



Clay :confused: #@$%!
 
clay

I am not an expert with this but I would think the regulator would only allow a preset amount of fuel pressure thru at all times. Where a bypass only opens at a preset pop off when pressure exceeds the pop off it opens. Where did you put the regulator?. I am guessing that the regulator is always returning to the tank where the bypass valve would not. Clear as mud?.



Dave
 
DavidC said:
clay

I am not an expert with this but I would think the regulator would only allow a preset amount of fuel pressure thru at all times. Where a bypass only opens at a preset pop off when pressure exceeds the pop off it opens. Where did you put the regulator?. I am guessing that the regulator is always returning to the tank where the bypass valve would not. Clear as mud?.



Dave

Hey Dave,

I installed the regulator approx. 19" past the discharge side of the pump. As I understand it, a regulator lets a set amiont of pressure through & a bypass valve basically does the same. These Walbro pumps put out somewhere around 130 psi so weather it be a bypass valve or regulator there is always going to be fuel flowing through either the regulator or bypass valve to keep a constant 16 psi or whatever the regulator or bypass is set at :confused: I would think. Am I missing something?

I know others are saying it can't be pulled below 13 psi so I believe I'm not getting something.

Ideas? Both the regulator & bypass valve systems flow the excessive pressure (fuel) back to the tank.



Thanks,

Clay #@$%!
 
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Clay

I have not seen the glacier system or install instructions so I think I will keep my fingers off the keyboard. Good luck.



Dave
 
DavidC said:
I don't think you want to go there. Why add a headache to a mechanical system.



Dave

A lot of the high HP guys with 12V's run pusher pumps. Look around, you might be surprised. Big Bad Dodge, Jim Fulmer and of course, F8LDOSE :D have ran pusher pumps and they have all laid down some nice numbers with their 12V's
 
Yes I am surprised. But, back to Clay's problem, anybody have any ideas other than the regulator may be a fixed item and not closing down restricting return under WOT?.



Dave
 
Jeff,

does GDP supply those lines in you photos or did you purchase them elsewhere? and how about the filter and bypass valve? I am unfirmiliar with the walbro pump but it sounds like thats what i want on my 24v. what is the I. D. of those lines.

thanks

Sam
 
Hey Sam, The fuel lines & by pass valve are included in the kit. The in line filter and 1/2" line from the FF to VP I got from Vulcan performance. Jeff
 
Clay. .

Are you sure you have the proper voltage to your pump and its not experiencing a loss or low current?. Are you running bypassed fuel back into the factory return lines or are you using a larger return line as it will also cause you to lower pressures?. Just a few items to think about on your fuel system.



Jason. .

I know of one guy out here who is suing one of these to supplement his higher HP 2wd 12v ride and loves it. He keeps his pressure regulated and sends the uneeded back to the tank.



One of the biggest things I know of with these electric pumps and their inherent failures is current draw and the inconsistency of it. MANY of the 99-02 trucks I have seen and or checked have had issues with current draw from the factory harness. So when you replaced those fuel pumps was it because of actual low pressure issues or due to improper voltages to the pumps?. I often wonder how many owners had them replaced just to find out they had other issues. I know of one friend of mine whose 02 HP truck was one like that. After her 7th lift pump(all Carters both mounted in factory location and relocated back on frame) and her 5th different fuel pressure gauge and regulator her truck's wiring harness was checked for voltage and voltage drop. It was found to have a broken wire near the Cummins in the harness and all the pumps and associated changes were found to be unecessary. It wouldn't have mattered what pump you installed on it as long as you plugged into the factory harness because with the broken wire in the harness it kept it from proper voltages. It has now been repaired and she is happy and feels safe enough to not worry about having to install another VP44 at her cost since she has proper pressures.



Anyway,my point is,improper voltages kill and cause more problems than they get credit for. IF he has low pressures it could be anything from low voltages to air seeping into the system somewhere because of a faulty install. Its time he rechecked his install from start to finish and I am certain he will find what he missed or did differently or by mistake... ... ... ..... Andy



On Edit...

Here is a chart showing the difference in this pump between 12v and 13. 5v in fuel flow. You will notice a huge difference in flow. I brought the chart over from APEUSA.com.
 
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