Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Wanna fix your lift pump problems?

[Ncostello]

I looked at that JD pump way back in a thread called John Deere Lift pump. It just seemed too small for what I was looking for. I think it was made by Faucet Pumps... good pumps but not exactly the specs I wanted.



JD lift pump

 

[rashwor]

JD Lift pump...

Ncostello, any news on the JD lift pump? Did you stop persuing it all together? Have you heard any more from Facet or Faucet engineers?



In your JD Lift pump thread, you mention that they you thought Facet or Faucet was working to develop a pump that might meet our specs. Any news on this?

 

[Ncostello]

I quit when the engineer told me the pump was only good for up to 6psi... good for a pusher... bad for a single pump which is what I wanted.



They have not contacted me back and I'm not surprised. I should call them back to see if the status has changed on the "new" pump since I doubt they still have my number. I'll see what I can find.



I think your spelling Facet is correct. I kept thinking they were called Faucet... guess I had too much fun this past weekend plumbing my new kitchen sink.

 

[Behr]

Couple of questions



Has anyone moved or installed a new lift pump close to the engine but slightly lower than the tank itself... ??



Also... . when installing the fuel pressure guage... is it between the lift pump and the filter that I want the sending unit... . ?

 

[radar doctor]

Nice Article

well written, enjoyed it, might have to do this to my 99

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"Also... . when installing the fuel pressure guage... is it between the lift pump and the filter that I want the sending unit... . ?"



Well, you hafta ask yourself what your basic purpose is in adding a FP guage - putting the sensor between the LP and fuel filter will tell you what pressure is at THAT point - but if the filter plugs, your PSI will still look great, but the VP-44 and engine are starving for fuel...



If your goal and concern is added protection for the VP-44, seems like it's best to put the sensor THERE - that's what *I* was concerned about, and that's where my sensor is fed from...

To each his own...

 

[Whitmore]

Originally posted by Behr

Couple of questions



Has anyone moved or installed a new lift pump close to the engine but slightly lower than the tank itself... ??



Also... . when installing the fuel pressure guage... is it between the lift pump and the filter that I want the sending unit... . ?

Behr, Its real easy to buy 2 senders and put a switch in so you can monitor just before the filter and at the inlet to the VP.



As far a mounting the lift pump in the engine bay but lower I dont know of any who tried this but I can tell you that the shorter the distance between the pump and the fuel source the better and of course lower too.



cheers, Kevin

 

[Behr]

Thanks Kevin and Gary for the info.....



I will phone around up here tomorrow and get price and availability on a fuel pressure gauge. With that will also get price on lift pump both from dealer and Cummins.



I do like your set up Kevin... with the inbed tank... but for me and I am sure a handful of others that is not possible because of we we may be using the bed of trucks for in the first place. Still... I do like your set up.



Is it safe to use two pumps in series... or am I better off to bypass the oem lift pump up on the motor block? Just run the one pump down by the tank... ?



Gordon...

 

[Whitmore]

Gordon, take the one off the side of the Cummins bracket and all and just move it back and redo the lines and fittings, order up a wireing pigtail for the pump and just make it longer. Moving the pump is only half the fix, take all the stock lines out and throw them away.



cheers, Kevin

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Kevin, when you ran the larger lines in and out of your fuel filter, could/did you see what restrictions there were, if any, inside the filter canister itself?

 

[Whitmore]

Actually I thought I was getting a restriction from the fuel heater inside the filter housing, its kinda a ring around the top of the canister that the inlet fuel flows into and there are holes all the way around this ring so the fuel can drop into the canister, I had a concern that a DP may be here so I pulled the fuel heater out and it didnt make any difference. I did all this when my pump was in its OEM location and I had stock lines, with ring in I had 4 psi at wot and with ring out I had 4psi at wot so that proved to me that the fuel heater ring was not the problem... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... thats when I got mad and re-did the whole fuel delivery system, now I have 12-13 at wot by the way I got these readings with 2 different pumps one old and one new and after the mod as well, so now I have a spare good pump that I thought was trash... ... ... ... ... ... this is something I have been pondering, I had a pump that was not looking good at all and after the up-grade the pump performs well!! Tells me alot



I will put my fuel heater back in at my next filter change.



cheers, Kevin

 

[Behr]

Kevin... . I read somewhere in a thread... . that when you remove the complete OEM lift pump and bracket there is actually a port opening in the block. This was apparently for the older mechanical lift pumps.



I was just going to get a new OEM carter pump and mount it either near the engine but lower than the tank or as you say ... . install it right back at the tank.



I am in the midst of sourcing out some FP gauges... . but looking for a good quality one..... I really prefer to spend extra and get one that will be reliable and accurate.



Gordon... .

 

[BWagner]

Whitmore,

Would it be possible to post some pictures of your setup I would be interested to see the lines, fittings, pump location, ETC... Also you just used regular 1/2 inch fuel line (rubber) right? Or steal lines? What did you replce the banjo fittings with? just regular Brass or alum. threaded hose barbs?



Thanks Bwagner

 

[EricBu12]

This is what I did. . I got a Racor 30 miron filter with aux fuel heater and water sensor and filter minder sensor and a carter 7# pusher pump. this setup has been on for 2 years and so far, (knock on wood), it is still holding up well. I get 15# on the initial key on, then 12 at idle, 10-12 at cruise, and no less than 8 WOT. According to bosch, these are great #'s and adequate for lubrication.



<img src=https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=4633&width=2/src img>

 

[Whitmore]

BWagner, The hose I got was called pushlock and it is the same stuff as the ss braided except it doesnt have the ss braided covering on it, it doesnt look as fancy but is very strong and will last a lifetime, it uses pushlock fittings too and the fittings for the pump, VP-44 and the filter housing are a -6an to 12. 5mm, I got it all from Jannetty racing but I am sure alot of other places sell the stuff too.



I will try to get some pics of it, it is very straight forward though.



cheers, Kevin

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Shucks Kevin as big as your line is, ya coulda just gone on down to yardbirds and got a length of 5/8 garden hose!

 

[Behr]

Kevini... . with your setup with the inbed tank... . what pressure do you figure the fuel is going into your lift pump..... ??



If I did not need the use the full bed of my truck... . I would consider a setup like yours.....



I have been mulling over the idea of just installing a low pressure pump down by the tank and just feeding the stock OEM lift pump with about 5psi.



Whats your opinion on this... ??:-{}

 

[Whitmore]

Behr,



I measured 1 psi of static pressure at the inlet to my pump from the in-bed tank when it was full of fuel.



Maybe its just me but I am very much against a 2 pump setup when 1 pump will do just fine.



Just move yourOEM pump back by the tank and mount it on the frame and also upgrade your lines before and after the pump with pushlock hose and -6an fittings, buy a pigtail from Cummins for 8 bucks so you can extend the wireing feed to the pump and you will be suprised how well it does.



cheers, Kevin

 

[Ken Dunn]

Good reading for me. I have some concern as my 98 24 valve, 1 ton, 4 wd is now Code 2 (Air Force term). It will idle fine most of the time, starts fine, but will die as if no fuel gets to it, will not pull a load, have to "pump" the pedal to keep it running if I go down the road.

The truck used to give me a "buzzing" noise when I turned the key on. That is now gone. Does that mean the pump is no longer pressurizing? the system? Can I just check the the two wires at the bottom of the lift pump for 12 volts and if good, replace the lift pump? I r2d the filter, no improvement there. No access to pressure gauges, I can buy them but I am trying to keep it simple.

The truck has 75,000 on it and I have had zero problems up to this point.

Thanks!

 

[Behr]

Kevin... . I was over at the local shop here that re-builds the fuel injection pumps of all kinds.



I told him about moving the lift pump back to the tank..... but he told me most diesel fuel injection pumps like to have the lift (transfer pump) very close to it. Just when I was about to ask him why... . he got called to the phone... and I could not stay. I will ask him next time I am over there just why that is the case...



He admitted that sucking the diesel fuel is difficult... . so he suggested a low pressure push pump down by the tank... he says... no more than 5 psi. He said with that... . you can keep the existing fuel lines.



I guess there are so many opinions on this ..... but I will agree with you that pumps are definitely made to push... . NOT PULL.



Gordon