JJuday said:Great Value 15-40 from Wally World! :-laf No, not really, I use Rotella and Stratapore or Fram filters. Want to switch to synthetic soon.
2003 QC 2500, graphite, H. O. 6-spd. 4X4.
Gary - K7GLD said:"How important is the API rating for warranty?"
NOT to be a smarta%%, but"
Gary,
Not to be a smart *** but 'can you read?' :-laf Go to their website - they have great independent test results from university studies that document fuel savings, wear reduction, emissions reductions, longer oil life, etc.....
But, after rereading your attempt at an oil evaluation and I could see that you did not understand oil analysis - I could see how you would not be able to understand the university test data... .![]()
I'm glad you like Delo - and whatever next flavor of the month you find the 'best'. Your previous 'oil test' in where you did not even understand how the viscosity of oils is measured and in what units - or that adding STP to your oil would have an effect on the viscosity testing comparisons... . for those that are not following this - do a search on Gary's posts from last year.
Sorry for the rant... . but I'm tired of reading of your attacks on companies on items that you really have no expertise in commenting on...![]()
Grizzly said:I don't care if it is free, changing your oil every 1000 miles is a big waste of oil, especially now when oil is such an expensive natural resource and think of what you are doing to the environment. You ought to be ashamed of yourself for that. STOP wasting oil. Grizzly![]()
justinp20012500 said:Should I still be ashamed when the used oil is filtered and then poured back into my tank, or used in an oil heater?
Or should I be ashamed that I am driving a ferd probe back and forth to work that gets 30 MPG and the Dodge hasn't moved in 4 weeks???
Now I am the one confused?
Maybe I need to start driving the black smoke belching "waste machine"![]()
Grizzly said:I have no way of knowing what you are doing with your wasted oil. The point is I get a little unglued when I hear of anyone wasting our natural resources, such as oil, which is such a precious commodity. Even though you have the facilities to change your oil every 1000 miles free is totally unnecessary and a waste. You should change your oil every 5000 miles or at intervals as stated in your owners manual. I do not think that pouring oil into your fuel tank is good for your engine and it makes for very expensive fuel, which equates to approximately $8 per gal. Can you tell me the name of the dealer in Salt Lake City, Utah you change your oil at, they need to hear this. Grizzly![]()
justinp20012500 said:One filtered quart to 30 gallons of diesel.
When a truck is over fueled is builds excessive amounts of soot in the oil.
Quote from Blackstone
"No fuel dilution was found, though soot was mildly high. "
That was only after 1200 miles.
Sooooo...
I will keep changing the oil at this interval not only because it’s free, but also because it is beneficial to motor.
Tell the dealer? :-laf
Well I consider my truck over fueled, (Edge EZ with Stage III Injectors), and my last oil analysis with 31,500 miles on the oil, showed Fuel<1% Soot 0. 50. I'm useing the good stuff!justinp20012500 said:One filtered quart to 30 gallons of diesel.
When a truck is over fueled is builds excessive amounts of soot in the oil.
Quote from Blackstone
"No fuel dilution was found, though soot was mildly high. "
That was only after 1200 miles.
Sooooo...
I will keep changing the oil at this interval not only because it’s free, but also because it is beneficial to motor.
Tell the dealer? :-laf
redram said:Gary - K7GLD said:"How important is the API rating for warranty?"
NOT to be a smarta%%, but"
Gary,
Not to be a smart *** but 'can you read?' :-laf Go to their website - they have great independent test results from university studies that document fuel savings, wear reduction, emissions reductions, longer oil life, etc.....
But, after rereading your attempt at an oil evaluation and I could see that you did not understand oil analysis - I could see how you would not be able to understand the university test data... .![]()
I'm glad you like Delo - and whatever next flavor of the month you find the 'best'. Your previous 'oil test' in where you did not even understand how the viscosity of oils is measured and in what units - or that adding STP to your oil would have an effect on the viscosity testing comparisons... . for those that are not following this - do a search on Gary's posts from last year.
Sorry for the rant... . but I'm tired of reading of your attacks on companies on items that you really have no expertise in commenting on...![]()
I have ONE user on my ignor list, this is why.
Motor oil brands? I use anything that is LISTED ON THE API website. I dont care if a certain company "recommends" their oil for a certain level of API certification. If the oil in question isnt listed on API's website then it DOES NOT meet API requirements and since your WARRANTY requires API certified you are technically violating your warranty if you use oil that is not certified (to minimum standards) by API.
I would be really doubtful that a brand of oil, no matter how magic it is can somehow make soot (carbon from fuel suspended in the oil) magically go away.
It's silly to even suggest that.
Where could the soot be going? Soot is carbon atoms, how can an oil cause matter (soot) to go away? Matter cant be destroyed, some law of physics I recall. Oil service catagories vary in their ability to hold soot in SUSPENSION (in the oil, hence soot level checks), that is why the newer API catagory. EGR will add a lot of soot to the oil
http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/ACF2AD.pdf (bottom) explains what the certification levels denote.
There is a site where API lists all certified oils,
http://eolcs.api.org/DisplayCompanyNames.asp
If your favorite brand/product is listed you are good to go.
More info: http://eolcs.api.org/