Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What is Needed to Change Rear Main?

[EGaskamp]

What tools are needed to change the rear mail seal? I guess the better questions to ask is, how do you get the seal out of there? I'm going to change it while I have the trannsmision out of the truck. Thanks



Eric

 

[TractorNut]

#ad


Well start here. . :-laf :-laf

Bryan

 

[Supermod56]

Quad4X4 has a good kit that has all the right tools to do it. www.quad4x4.com



Tom

 

[jwilliams3]

Unbolt the trans adapter.

(8 bolts 15mm).

Then there will be 8 bolts for the rear seal housing and 4 on the corresponding area under the housing connected to the oil pan.



Do your best to remove the rear seal housing (screwdriver, putty knife etc. ) without tearing the oil pan gasket.



Next, press out old seal with press.

The kit should come with a guide to install the new seal into the housing.



Make sure to scotch brite your rear seal surface on the crank shaft (get all the gunk and oil off).

The seal installs onto a dry crankshaft surface.



Use a little RTV on the bottom of the rear seal housing to seal it up better at the pan gasket.



Good luck.

 

[TractorNut]

Thanks jw... We weren't sure if we could pull the seal without pulling the housing. . (using the screw/bolt and slide hammer method) I'm guess there is no where sleave on the crank??

Thanks

Bryan

 

[jwilliams3]

I am not familiar with the term wear sleeve?

 

[SRadke]

I've changed 4 of them without removing the "trans adapter". Just drill a small hole in the seal, screw in a screw and pull it out with vice grips, slide hammer, etc. Tap in new seal on dry crank, no probs.



-Scott

 

[EGaskamp]

We had the same idea about drilling into the seal and then pulling it out. Sounds like the easiest way to me. I just don't want it to start leaking after I get the clutch in. Thanks



Eric

 

[SRadke]

It's not a problem. Just be sure the crank is dry, smooth, and clean. If it's grooved I would set the new seal at a slightly diffrent depth than the old one. Wouldn't hurt to smear a really thin layer of your favorite silicone/permatex around the seal before you tap it in, this will ensure no leaks from the perimiter.



-Scott

 

[TractorNut]

Wear sleave... (nice spelling I have... ) On JD engine we use a wear sleeve on the crank, so the seal does not ride on the crank... When replacing the seal, it comes with a new wear sleeve and seal. . they are installed together all at one time... If there is no wear sleeve nothing to worry about. . they can just be a pain to get off some times... We'll try the easy way first... only pull the plate if we have too...

Thanks

Bryan

 

[JFinke]

They make a special seal and wear sleave for them if your crank is groved. If your crank already has the wear sleave you will need the seal made for it, and the special installer to go with it, or you can just change the seal if the wear sleave is still in good shape. I just did mine at 260,000 and the crank looked good. Jake

 

[TractorNut]

Jake, any idea when they started using the wear sleave??? Eric's is an 02. . so I'm guess it will have one???

Bryan

 

[jwilliams3]

You wont need a wear sleeve, the seal can be installed at different depths if there is a wear path cut into the crank.

But a wear path usually does not happen, more of just a gunk path build up.

 

[SRadke]

It likely will not have a sleeve. That is a worst case scenerio if you need to install one and it would have to be a high mileage truck.

 

[JCulp]

the way i do it is use a self taper screw use two of them across from each other and use prybars or vise grips like menchond above and pull it strait out if there is a wear sleave just use a small -small chisel and tap lightly betwien the crank and sleave and it will break easily no prob. if it dosnt have one i would put one in insted of groving your crank

 

[TractorNut]

Eric. . I'd recomend pulling the plate and the seal housing... or you might need to use the seal with the wear sleave...

Bryan



(hind sight is 20/20. . )

 

[JFinke]

As far as I know they have never put the wear sleave and matching seal on from the factory on the B series. All the C's come with them on the rear and the newer ones now have them on the front. I've only done one B that needed the wear sleave on the front, and have never done one on the rear. Every C I've ever taken apart needed the wear sleave on the front. Back in about 1992 I couldn't get the sleave type seal for a C and put on the regular seal and a speedysleave. It cut the speedysleave in half in 500 hours. The wear sleaves are much thicker and made of some good hard material.



I have never pulled the rear seal plate to replace the seal on a B. I just drill the old seal and use a slide hammer, as reccomended in the Cummins manual. Just make sure to drill out a ways so you don't knick the crank. If you do you'll need the wear sleave. When I did mine a few weeks ago I had to drill it in 8 differant spots, as it was really stuck and the slide hammer kept stripping the holes out. Jake

 

[TractorNut]

"Just make sure to drill out a ways so you don't knick the crank. If you do you'll need the wear sleave. "

-Jake



Yup... we need the wear sleeve...

Bryan

 

[EGaskamp]

Yep, it's not fun. I'm about to head to the Dodge house and get the wear sleave. Hopefully they know what I'm talking about.

Eric

 

[SRadke]

You might try a Cummins dealer if you have one nearby. I have much better luck with finding the right parts and they have better prices.



-Scott