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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What is the best power mod... I can make

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) grounds and resistance

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Are you even reading what we posted? The converter is locked. He is driving down the road at HWY speeds... . he comes up to a hill and can't maintain speed. This has NOTHING to do with the transmission. He could have a Full RACE DTT, ATS or Goerends. IT WILL NOT MATTER! He is dealing with a lack of power issue DURING Lock-up. That is why I used the Manual Transmission truck as an example. Adding an EZ will give him that small seat of the pants kick that will help him drive over those hills.



We all know about the transmission issues. I've smoked a "dunrite" trans, and a Suncoast trans. I know EXACTLY how it goes. Answer Peoples actual questions or dont' answer at all.



Josh
 
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RacinDuallie said:
Capt. Hohn,

Sir, No I just look at the bigger picture here- Why- would you take the risk on the VP-44 injection pump and the well known inherit problems with taxing the weak factory lift pump- with a fueling box? He does not have gauges in his list of mods. They should be manditory , but by having him add a fueling box first would be having him driving blind so to speak with his VP-44 pump... ... . And the lift pump as well... ... ...





The bigger picture-(IMHO) would be to get that 1999's trans up to snuff-THEN enhance the engine mildly- if more is needed... ..... But enhance in the proper order of enhancements- pump first- then either injectors or the fueling box... ... ... .



Fair enough. You're right, your financial status is nunnamybidness :D



There's a certain logic to pouring a foundation before you build a house, right?



jh
 
Boy, did I open a can of worms or what???? I don't mind all of the replies, course I don't know to much about these diesels, so don't know the best way to get the power that I want, I guess if I did I wouldn't have to ask questions like this. I'm not sure what kind of shape the transmission is in, all I know is it was completly rebuilt at 31,610 miles, and the truck now has 88,062 miles on it right now, I change motor oil and filter every 3,000 miles and have the transmission oil and filter changed every 20,000 miles, fluid always smells good, never a burnt smell I ask the tech how every thing looks he say's fine. One time he adjusted the reverse band but that is all... ... Oh well think I will start with a set of gauges first and work my way up... . Dad always say's to me got to crawl before you can walk... ... just built a new house back in november, so let me tell you all... ... I'm probably going to have to crawl another few miles before I can spend big $$$$ but ohhh well at least I have something's to look forward toooooo..... You all take care... glad I joined this site... . I feel like I have soooosoooo many friends out there it is awsome... ... going on a trip to Tennessee "Pulaski" and Alabama "Athens" leaveing july 2nd, to visit the family I am takeing my truck and I will have my TDR sticker on the back window... . hope to see some of you all on my way down... you all take care and talk to you all later... ... Don
 
With a completely stock trans you are not getting near as much power to the ground as an aftermarket one. Even when you're locked-up with an stock trans the power-to-the-ground is not near as efficient as with an aftermarket trans. When I went to an aftermarket trans my fuel mileage went up (and that was before I installed the trans controller box). Stock trannies and torque converters will slip some under heavy loads especially with a box like an EZ, there's no question about it, ask Keith at Diesel Dynamics. He flat out told me when I bought mine that the trans would end up suffering sooner rather than later and even though I babied it as much as possible it went south of the border quickly.



I tow a 10-11k toyhauler up and down the mountain passes in Calf, Utah, and Nevada. With my stock trans the truck would fall out of 3rd (locked up mode) and then I'd start to lose even more speed like crazy while in fluid coupling, not to mention the trans temps would climb easily over 200 degrees inside the pan (on the biggest passes). When you add a controller box to an aftermarket transmission it is major icing on the cake. Now, instead of slowing to a crawl with high rpms, and hot trans temps (like I did with a stock trans/TC) it's like ice water running through the trans lines and the truck pulls great. Trying to get a stock transmission to lock back up after you've slowed to the point it has to unlock is a painfull chore and is hard on the equipment.



I agree that 4-5k is very painfull for an upgraded trans, but don't be under any illusions that spending $500 on a box will solve your towing problems because that'll only be temporary, then you'll end up paying big bucks for a new trans farily quickly (without having the ability to plan/save for it).



I'm just trying to help you not make the same big $$$ mistake I made a couple of years ago. If you get an EZ I'd only run it on boost fooling mode until I got a better TC (as a minimum) or better yet go to some mild injectors to try to help you power issue. You're really not getting your money's worth out of power upgrades though until you can put it to the ground.



Good luck to you.



Rich
 
I certainly don't want to start any crap here, especially when it has cooled back down to a friendly ending. Naturally I do advocate doing it right/once, and in my book that would be doing the full boat trans upgrade. However, in all fairness to each situation, I wanted to point out that solid "economical" solutions are available. I think that given the description of Don's initial post, it would behoove him to investigate Suncoast or Goerend (sp?) equipment. Or perhaps a DTT/ats (sorry, my loyalty is showing) :-laf solution short of full billet shafts to save some $$. Once again, I do not want to start anything here, just to point out that different situations could enable different possible solutions. If we got the impression that Don was going racing, power launching, brake torques, or 360s on wet roads, then I would not even mention this. However for just looking for a little more power, a $2k product selection might provide the solution for him verses a full boat $$ piece of equipment. It just has to be kept in mind that partial solutions induce higher risk than full solutions.



fwiw, please keep the peace...

Bill
 
Bill,



I agree that there's more than one way to slice it, i. e. he could beef up the existing drive train instead of a wholesale swap out and have good results. Based on the feedback from a lot of you guys I would recommend he talk with the Kondolay's when he decides to upgrade his TC, and/or VB. I'm not in any way a racer, power launcher, 360er or any of those. I was/am the guy that with only tows his camper trailer a weekend a month and while only putting down between 200-250 rwhp toasted a low-mile stock transmission. It still makes me sick that I had to spend the coin that I did because of the way I went about it.



Take care,



Rich
 
Ya know what Racin... . I TRIED to talk to you like a man. In Private. You blew that off. Now I'm done with this thread.



Your quote above... he is talking about rolling down the road at HWY speeds... Letting off to coast around a corner... and it not picking back up and going. Nothing to do with Low speeds, nothing to do with a transmission. It's lack of power. I know MANY people who haev MILDLY bombed their trucks with no problems. Just don't beat on it.



My trans problems... . One POS converter from a company that won't stand behind their product. A total rebuild by a Respected company that does.



Yes I'm Mildly bombed.



Josh
 
rblomquist said:
With a completely stock trans you are not getting near as much power to the ground as an aftermarket one. Even when you're locked-up with an stock trans the power-to-the-ground is not near as efficient as with an aftermarket trans.



OOH-MY-GOD! did i just read that (second sentence) or am i having a nightmare? this is too much :D



RD, I give UP. you WIN! transmission rebuilds for everybody. heck I'm going to convert just so i can get one. LOL



BTW: If he's droping speed below 40 out on the highway I dont want nothing to do with him and for sure wouldnt claim to have known him.



you guys are insane! have a nice life, hope that bubble you live in dont pop!



come on Mods... . lock it down! 5 pages of bickering/misinformation just to sell a transmission upgrade idea. These guys are certifiable!
 
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You guys need to mellow out. It's not that big a deal. He just wanted a little more juice. Get the powermax3 with the built in gauges, and you won't be dissappointed.

Big A
 
EZ or comp

Posted earlier about the standard vs HO not having an auto option, hope it wasn't taken the wrong way. I had an EZ and it held up just fine and was a great power boost. The rv275's made the trany slipp. Went to far. If you bought a comp or similar box I would not tap the wire till the auto is upgraded. The catcher adds to much power at low end before your transmission gets the pressure up so would be pushing the trany. DW
 
I erased some of my posts here because it was turning into an arguement... but fact remains beef up that transmission first before you ask for more power- or your just asking for trouble... ...
 
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Todd T said:
OOH-MY-GOD! did i just read that (second sentence) or am i having a nightmare? this is too much :D



RThese guys are certifiable!



If you're telling me that a stock trans and stock converter is just as efficient as an aftermarket one you need to put down the crack pipe and stop cutting on people. The fact is my fuel mileage went up every single tank I've run since getting the ATS trans 20,000 miles ago. The stock ones loose/waste power either by the torque converter slipping (not nessessarily noticable while driving) and/or the poor design of the stator in the TC. It takes more energy (fuel) to get a load rolling of the same distance with a stock trans than an aftermarket one, there's no question about that. You don't get nearly as much power to the ground with a stock setup in fluid coupling mode, and to a lessor extent even when locked up. The entire point of having a built transmission and torque converter is to get more power to the ground and to get your load moving better with the same about of pedal.



An EZ cost me a headgasket (the 1st time I towed), a stock trans within 15k miles at which point I had to shell out $5,000 for an ATS tranmsission, then a year and a half later, I lost another headgasket (still with an EZ Attached) a $1,300 job, and that's just the tip of the iceburg. If I'm certifiable it's because I've had to go through literally thousands of dollars in azz pain for a gain of 50hp. Before and after the EZ I had/have none of those kind of problems.



It is risky to post on these threads when you go against the popular notion of the masses and that's why a lot of people that are having problems don't do it. To be frank, it's almost not worth taking a beating to post what your experience has been.
 
rblomquist said:
If you're telling me that a stock trans and stock converter is just as efficient as an aftermarket one you need to put down the crack pipe and stop cutting on people. The fact is my fuel mileage went up every single tank I've run since getting the ATS trans 20,000 miles ago. The stock ones loose/waste power either by the torque converter slipping (not nessessarily noticable while driving) and/or the poor design of the stator in the TC. It takes more energy (fuel) to get a load rolling of the same distance with a stock trans than an aftermarket one, there's no question about that. You don't get nearly as much power to the ground with a stock setup in fluid coupling mode, and to a lessor extent even when locked up. The entire point of having a built transmission and torque converter is to get more power to the ground and to get your load moving better with the same about of pedal.



An EZ cost me a headgasket (the 1st time I towed), a stock trans within 15k miles at which point I had to shell out $5,000 for an ATS tranmsission, then a year and a half later, I lost another headgasket (still with an EZ Attached) a $1,300 job, and that's just the tip of the iceburg. If I'm certifiable it's because I've had to go through literally thousands of dollars in azz pain for a gain of 50hp. Before and after the EZ I had/have none of those kind of problems.



It is risky to post on these threads when you go against the popular notion of the masses and that's why a lot of people that are having problems don't do it. To be frank, it's almost not worth taking a beating to post what your experience has been.



Did you send your EZ back to Edge to see if there was something wrong with it? I know you have posted before about the timing issue and towing. There are a lot of people towing with timing boxes that have not had the head gasket issues like you have had. Keith responded to me that Edge cut there timing back to what he had in the DD boxes. Was yours maybe one of the early ones that had more timing? SNOKING
 
The point we're making here is you CAN just go get the EZ, hook it up and get your 50 extra ponies..... BUT- the stock automatics are not going to live too long down the road- and towing with them extra 50 ponies will take it out sooner... ... Is your initial investment for those 50 worth it? Put a real converter in there and some simple mods on the trans to 'PUT THE POWER TO THE GROUND - NOT HEAT UP THE TRANS AND KILL IT' after doing that the guy will be happy with how his truck performs and may not even 'need' to box it... ... ... ...

I don't know about how you choose to invest your money- maybe your the gambling type. .
I'm not- I choose to invest wisely... ...

And the benifits will show with an entirely different perfoming truck that puts the power to the ground,won't create excess heat in the trans from excess slip and wasted energy, increased fuel milage, and less taxing of the motor... .....

And if that's the popular notion to go on and rip people and call them certifiable then I'm glad to be different... ... ... . I have thick skin anyhow... ..... Atleast I'm comfortable with the suggestions I give on this fine forum- I don't suggest anything that I wouldn't do to my own trucks- or my friends trucks,without adding up the consequences for the long run... .....
 
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The common perception is that the trans bomb is just a necessary evil to prevent a possible big problem. My opinion is that the trans upgrades are in fact an excellent modification in their own right. With or without any additional bombs. The stock is trans must be :confused: in the top 3-5 all time weak points in these trucks. Fixing this with an upgrade just makes sense.



Waiting without any power upgrades while you raise the funds for a trans bomb would be a real drag for most people. Go ahead and buy a used EZ and have a little fun with your truck or enjoy a bit more towing power. It is not like you have not spent or will not spend $350 on something stupider. The common rule of thumb on the 2nd gen is "ES or injectors but noth both on a stock trans or clutch". This principle is well established. Just acknolwedge that you are taking a higher risk than doing the trans 1st, and keep in mind that you are impacting weak points in the system.



YOJNE your truck!!!
 
I'll throw my 2 c in here.

I read as much as i could, asked questions and then formed my own opinion.

My sig is in order of the bombs that I performed. Gauges first and I would put a Fuel pressure gauge on a bone stock truck regardless. I ran a comp box for 30,000 miles of that the first 5000 without tapping the pump wire. I tow 10,000 at least once a week for work and a 31 foot camper as often as i can get away. In my case I used common sence and kept the box on low settings turned overdrive of when climing grades and made sure that the revs where kept up. Here is the advantage of the comp box, you can control it in cab. I took a trip from SC to NH and back with no problems on a stock trans towing the TT with the comp and the wire had been tapped. Maybe i was lucky and just happen to have a good trans, I belive it has do do with keeping the revs up. When the 53 got me :{ I upraded the trans :) and it is a worthy upgrade but I think that with some sence one can make a stock trans last, since i went with bigger injectors i felt that the trans upgrade was needed plus it was all apart so might as well do it once and do it right. I'm still on my original Vp44, 2nd lift pump and have no mods to my fuel delivery system.

This thread started looking for extra power, lets give real world experience and keep the bashing and flaming out.
 
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