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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) What is the bombing order for 12 valve?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 95 auto trans?

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Got a '97 auto 4x4 that I would like to improve the power on. I would like working power not sled pulling, drag racing power. What kind of upgrades are suggested for the 12 valve? I am thinking torque plate, injectors, BHAF, 4" exhaust but I don't know what # plate or size injectors.
 
I just had some work done at Janetty Racing. You can see my sig to see what I did. I'll be adding gauges very soon, then save up to do the trans. I don't think the stock transmission will stand up to much more than what I have right now. After the transmission I may go with injectors too. I love the way my truck runs now.
 
GET GAUGES fisrt that way you can tell wath your engine is doing then if your only looking for a little more power you can slide the stock plate fowered then when you get board with that a TQ plate, with the right TQ plate you may hurt your transmission, and maybe bigger injectors. This site will show you the different TQ plate #'s http://www.tstproducts.com/power_kits_trial.htm it's all up to you.
 
I recommend a different torque converter, that is one of the bigger "bang for the buck" items you can do for an auto. That tied with injectors for the biggest difference on my truck before I got carried away. It works a lot better for towing, too
 
for the 180 hp--gauges, please up front!

1. TST #8 power kit

2. automatic transmission work--now is the time to pick your stall for the converter to match future power upgrades, and get more line pressure with shift kit or exchange valve body. These are minimum and fine for up to 300 or so hp. If you are going wild, get a completely done transmission from one of the good vendors.

3. #5 power kit and possibly 215 hp or 370 hp injectors. 16 cm2 turbine housing, low restriction muffler and check catalytic converter for partial plugging (backpressure reading at elbow will do this when under power).

4. more timing, about 15. 5 to 16. 5 degrees. ATS exhaust manifold, HX40 turbo precision balanced preferably. 4" exhaust.

5. more air, more fuel, more, more. . . $$$$
 
Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

2. automatic transmission work--now is the time to pick your stall for the converter to match future power upgrades, and get more line pressure with shift kit or exchange valve body. These are minimum and fine for up to 300 or so hp. If you are going wild, get a completely done transmission from one of the good vendors. [/B]

What do those stall #'s mean? I'm a bit ignorant when it comes to autos.

4. more timing, about 15. 5 to 16. 5 degrees.

What is stock timing and when do I need to advance it?

5. more air, more fuel, more, more. . . $$$$

Yeah, that's what I say--fuel until hot, air until cool, repeat as necessary.



I'm about to start down this path with Dad's 160HP truck. Oo.
 
Governer Spring Kit -- I understand that, aside from the obvious higher revs, throttle response is much more lively with a GSK. They come in two flavors 3K and 4K. The 3K (three thousand RPM) model is the most popular. I don't know that a 4K would be of any use on a standard cam engine--somebody STOP me. I'm working purely on info gathered here. ;)



Big Daddy Piers sells them. (Piers Diesel Research)
 
Call Piers or your favorite HP dealer

For some reason the #10 (which is less power then a #8) has recently been talked up IF... you add the GSK. If you need more the #4 is the other plate that works best with GSK springs.



I would add the GSK. What ever plate you get make sure it is a TST and get it from a dealer that will let you trade up. You will trade up!



Stick $ into plate, GSK and some intake (better air filter) and exhaust (loose cat, better or no muffler). Full 4" not needed to get started.



You will eventually have to deal with the transmission.



jjw

ND
 
For towing I like the 4,000 rpm kit and the #4 plate. With the 4,000 rpm kit and the H. D. valve springs you can keep the rpm's up and the turbo spooled while towing. The #10 plate also works with the 4,000 rpm kit for less power. If you don't want the extra power and the need for a larger turbo in the future the #8 plate will be best, but I guarantee you will want more and will end up buying another plate for more H. P.

Bruce
 
For some reason the #10 (which is less power then a #8) has recently been talked up IF... you add the GSK.



The #10 has a great power band but it's later in the RPM's and that is what is needed for the stock auto's, also the #10 is the most versatile plate for it's moon shaped fuel curve.



Jim
 
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